Control line? You have to remember I'm not much better. I've gotten better on the one I bought. I'm probably going to start building it today or tomorrow at work.
Money!!!!!!!!!!! I'll be building my first one tomorrow! Will be ordering the electronics soon. Here is a question for you guys. Local hardware store only had 1" thick foam board like josh used. He used 1/2". Will that be too heavy? I was going to notch it to fit into the wing part.
For the skids and fuselage I just sandwiched together a couple pieces of Dollar Tree foamboard. I wanted to use insulation but wasn't feeling motivated enough to go to the store.
Hey another question for you guys. I'm sure you have seen some of the rc powers builds. He has a F22 scratch build as well. I went onto Grayson hobby and they have combo packs. Everything but tx/rx in the kits. I know bixler suggested certain parts but I'm wondering if these kits are worth the money. I'm looking at this kit, http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/graysonhobbymicrojetv3flightpackintermediate-p-980.html
do you think it will work on the FT F22 considering there is even less foam on it then the rc powers. If you guys think it will work it will save me a bunch of headache and waiting time for shipping. HELP A NOOB OUT!!!!!
The reason I was looking at that one is because except for the tx/rx it's all there. All the connections are done and will make things easier to build with my son. The speed I'm not worried about. If I was to put a smaller prop will it be faster or slower? Also would running a 2c be better? There are so many questions about so many combinations. Help!!!!!!
Sorry I was meaning 2 cell. So am I correct to say 8" prop with a low pitch could be the same as a 6" with a higher pitch? And some one explain these numbers for batteries? I'm used to the old 1/10 scale rc cars with the huge 6cells
Yes, and yes. But rather than Explain Batteries all again, just scroll down to the batteries and charging systems section near the bottom of the forum. There is a wealth of info down there.
Ok, I'll have to read that about a few dozen times to understand it. So let me try this to see if im right..... If I decide to use the package I linked in a different post, and lets say the motor is too "hot" for my skills, I could run a 2 cell battery and switch to a smaller prop with less pitch to move less air.
Yes, but I would caution you to change only one variable at a time, or else disaster,(Like my Zagi coming down in a busy road) could happen.
Or, Just jump in and quit worrying!
Oh trust me I understand that. It's like that with my dodge. With the right tuning after trial and error I now have a 610 hp and 1100 torque diesel drag racer and sled puller. I've done the jump in and see what happens thing...... It didn't work out so well
Well i ordered electronics today,
1 x Scratch Builder Hardware Pack
2 x 15cm Servo Extension
1 x Disposable Foamie Combo - Sport & 18A ESC - Prop Saver
1 x APC Thin Electric 9 x 6 Reverse Rotation (9 x 6 EP)
4 x Grayson Black 600mAh 11.1V (3s) 30C / 40C Lithium Battery Pack
1 x 5 pack T-Plug Battery Conector (Deans Style) (T-Plug) - will have to make new connection on batteries)
2 x Dynam 9g High Performance Micro Servo (DY-1007)
1 x APC Thin Electric 7 x 5 Reverse Rotation (7 x 5 EP)
Just plug them in... If you have an OrangeRx then the channels are marked on it, if it's on a Turnigy 9X then you just use a servo to see what channel goes to what output.
If you plug in a servo backwards it just won't work. It won't burn or anything.