KK2.1.5 Firmware Post for 2015

HawkMan

Senior Member
yeah mixed, is it something I should bother with or should I just stick with steveis, though in all likelihood, my Sparky that left usps sorting in Miami the other day will be here before I have this thing in the air again, making it fairly moot :p
 
Thanks to all of your posts,,,,,it is just what I needed. My tricopter is built and am at the point of connecting the kk2 board. All your questions and answers were spot on. Now I just have to wait on my just ordered usb-asp programmer interface to get here. Then I will flash my board with the Steveis firmware that all talk about which will enable me to follow David's video on setting up the kk2.

In the meanwhile, I thought I would see how far I could get with the stock firmware just for practice. And I came up with a couple of questions. I am using a DX6i and an orange r615x receiver. There is a cable to connect aux ports on both but I have no aux switch on my 6i. Should one connect the aux of the kk2 to the rec. gear port instead? I do have a gear switch on the 6i.(this is my first multirotor and don't know what the kk2 aux port will be used for with the tricopter)

Also, in David's setup he recommends that the two front motors rotate in opposite directions. But he said that they can all run in the same direction. (In my parts order I was unaware at the time for the need of cw and ccw props and just ordered standard props). I would like to work with what I have (at least until the next order). What is recommended by this reader base? Can I get by w/o too much trouble rotating all in one direction? If so,,,,,,how is the rotation direction of the one motor changed? I do not see a "change" option when I am in the motor layout of the stock firmware? Is this possible in the Steveis firmware replacement?

Thanks for all your help in advance!
 

helinor

Senior Member
If you look at your DX6i the gear switch also says F. mode. Connect the gear channel on the RX to the AUX on the KK 2 to change flight modes on the board, meaning turn SL on and of. If you flash the RC911 sw you can switch on his SL-mix feature if you want to try acro but don´t feel comfortable flying in manual.

To change the rotation on one motor you will have to change place on two of the three leads from ESC to motor.
 

Craftydan

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Gear or flaps -- your call. Typically anything above the primary 4 channels is called "Aux", but some setups include flaps and gear before Aux1 starts, some start Aux1 on the 5th channel. Semantics. Just connect up that 5th port on the kk2 to the RX position you want, then turn on the switch connected to that channel.

On a Tri the props can all go in the same direction, but one counter-rotating prop will make it easier on the tail (and thus it'll fly a *little* better). The motor direction is set by the ESC wiring -- if it's spinning opposite the direction you want, swap any two of the three motor leads. Just make sure they all blow down when the motors spin up and the board will handle the rest.
 
Thanks helinor and craftydan. I could kick myself on the motor rotation question. I knew the solution but was trying to make it more complicated:). Thanks again.

One more question (showing that I am totally new to the multirotor world). With this tricopter/kk2 setup the only two flying choices are "with" or "without" SL (self leveling). Correct? The only reason I ask is because of some of the commercial ready to fly crafts I have seen have three or four levels available. I have the feeling that once I have this build complete and begin to fly I will be able to answer this question,,,,sort of the same difference between driving a BMW and a Pinto,,,,,,enjoy the technology.
 

Craftydan

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Stock KK2 will only do acro (gyros only) or self level. The strength of the self level can be adjusted with the level P gain, but it'll always be on or off depending on your AUX switch position.

There is an updated ROM from RC911 (AiO ++) that includes a "mixed self level", where a center stick acts like level and the farther out you go the more acro it behaves . . . so it's like putting a tow hitch on a corolla -- it'll never tow a 35' RV, but you can pull a small trailer.
 
You speak my language c.dan:)))). Thanks for your time. I am learning with each word and sentence. Once I receive my usbasp I will probably flash (look at me,,,,,,I did not know the meaning of "flash" just this morning, ha) with the steveis firmware just since cpo has an understandable video on how to do it using a Mac and it will coincide with David W's KK2 board setup video. I should be set (and ready for more unknown learning:)

Thanks again!
 
I am primarily following David's kk2 board setup video in my build process. With occasional jumps to that of cpo. And of course questions then arise. I take it that with D's setup, the red receiver wires from the ESC's of motors 2 & 3 that plug into the out side of the kk2 power the servo. Correct? But cpo clips these two red wires and adds a separate bec which is plugged into the out side of the kk2 just to power the servo. Why has he gone to this effort? Which method is best?
 
I could use some help/direction

. I am trying to get my first tricopter up and running but am having trouble with my kk2 board. Have tried and retried with no success. I have flashed and re flashed with steveis 1.18 (I know 1.19 is available but wanted to have the exact version that is used in david w.'s video). I am using the hard case kk2 board that I just received from HK a couple of weeks ago.

First off I got all the settings done per Davids setup video and the receiver test showed connectivity and function. However, in the end, when all was said and done, and I powered up the system, there was no actual powering of the motors or servo. I tried to check all but had no success.

I now re flashed and when I power up the board through port 1 with a bec, the kk2 board shows SAFE and not ERROR and when I attempt the receiver test, it shows no response. I am at a total loss. I have no clue where to go from here.
 

Balu

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Did you "arm" the KK board?

I'm not sure how it works with a Tri, but on a quad you have to hold the throttle stick to the bottom right for a second for it to go from SAFE to ARMED (and bottom left to disarm again).