Help! Need help in designs

[FlyerInStyle]

I built a tiny trainer. everything went well, BUT that was until...
I discovered that my plane was not turning because my tail was on crooked. the tail half of my plain was all crooked. but I only had a tiny piece of foam left. so the only type of fuselage that could fit on the piece of foam that I had at the moment was the ft mini scout fuselage. except...
I just took an old ft mini scout completely crashed and unflyable. What I did is I just traced the crashed fuselage out.
what I did then is I used Experimental airlines body tubes techniques:

to put it together.

After that I slid the other crooked fuselage of the tiny trainer in a little bit diagonally, and it becomes even. but then, the nose tapers down in the front, and I like how it is. it also becomes pretty tail-heavy, if I do not place the motor close to upfront . where and how can I place it for maximum efficiency?

please help!!

 

[mastermalpass]

After that I slid the other crooked fuselage of the tiny trainer in a little bit diagonally, and it becomes even. but then, the nose tapers down in the front, and I like how it is. it also becomes pretty tail-heavy, if I do not place the motor close to upfront . where and how can I place it for maximum efficiency?

please help!!

Good to hear the repair has gone well so far. As for the position of the motor... If not right up at the very front, how would the prop fit on? Or are you asking about that inch or so of space you have? If you're experiencing tail heaviness and you can easily reposition the firewall then sure, move the motor as far forward as you can as you want to get every bit of nose-weight you can without having to add dead weight. I think you wanna trim that tail weight - sounds like you've slid the new fuselage over an existing one - the design won't have taken a double-thickness tail-boom into account. Slide the new fuse off, cut off most of the original fuse, leaving yourself a half-inch to slide back onto and glue the rest - it should hold.

Don't use too much hot glue either, that will add more tail weight. If too little glue means it comes off in a crash, just clean the surfaces and stick it back on - beads of glue in each corner is unlikely to come off in flight unless you dive from high up and try a high G turn.

 

[FlyerInStyle]

SO what I want to do is not mount the motor in the front of the fuselage, the tail heaviness. is no longer a problem. I experimented and solved it. but where do I mount the motor if not in front the fuselage? Also I want something like this:https://www.google.com/search?q=dra...S917&safe=active&ssui=on#imgrc=7Qv2Arq1-oNaPM

 

[mastermalpass]

Ah, planes are pretty much built around the fire wall. You wanna change where the motor and prop are, you might need to change the whole plane!

FT do a couple designs with the prop raised like that - such as the FT Otter or FT Explorer.

 

[FlyerInStyle]

here is what it looks like. I have a power pack a, and so this is a modded tiny trainer. what happened during tests is that the motor was pushing the nose down really hard. Where should I mount the motor to maybe make this a seaplane type plane?

 

[FlyerInStyle]

Also, I am fine with building a whole other plane, now that I see it, but I am a first time flyer.

 

[JasonK]

with the motor above the CG vertically, it will cause down pitch under thrust. Hopefully someone with a bit more experience in making stuff like that work will hop in and give some suggestions beyond what I can.

Minimizing the vertical offset of the motor can help as can adjusting the thrust angle (in this case it would appear that some up angle would be relevant and might be all you need).

 

[Quinnyperks]

with the motor above the CG vertically, it will cause down pitch under thrust. Hopefully someone with a bit more experience in making stuff like that work will hop in and give some suggestions beyond what I can.

Minimizing the vertical offset of the motor can help as can adjusting the thrust angle (in this case it would appear that some up angle would be relevant and might be all you need).

I would reccomend tilting it up to prevent pushing the nose down.

 

[FlyerInStyle]

I decided that it would be better to build a whole other airplane. This is because I qglued the motor mount so well that I canno ttake it off withot ruining the omount, to adjjust the angle. so what airplane could you recommend that is not flitetest for a first time flyer.

 

[FlyerInStyle]

a mini plane

 

[mastermalpass]

I decided that it would be better to build a whole other airplane. This is because I qglued the motor mount so well that I canno ttake it off withot ruining the omount, to adjjust the angle. so what airplane could you recommend that is not flitetest for a first time flyer.

What mini plane can I recommend for a beginner that is NOT a FliteTest design? Well since you asked, I do happen to have a design aimed specifically at first timers, that may be of interest to you!

https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/wingmill-rc-half-pipe-and-half-pipe-delta.66155/

 

[leaded50]

Also, I am fine with building a whole other plane, now that I see it, but I am a first time flyer.

https://store.flitetest.com/flite-test-sea-otter-electric-airplane-kit-1016mm-flt-1039/p673703

 

[slowjo]

even the sea otter has a lot of push over when hitting the throttle, thats why planes like the Bixler have crazy down thrust angles

 

[FlyerInStyle]

I am building the halfpipe delta from mastermallpass. thanks to him

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

I would reccomend tilting it up to prevent pushing the nose down.

Normally you position the motor in a downward angle along the incidence of the wing, to provide some down thrust. Generally with high mounted motors they are in a pusher orientation not tractor and are set back behind the CG.
I have a couple of planes that would bury their noses in the ground if I gave them full throttle on launch, I learned to feel for the optimum thrust for launch. Once its actually airborne you can gradually increase the throttle and it will climb, but open your throttle to max or even 3/4 initially and it will head for terra firma.

Hope this helps

 

[FlyerInStyle]

Wow that really helps! Thanks. I will keep that in mind with all the experiments with rc planes that I make

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

I must admit I have been tempted to build a full scratch build, powered glider with a power pod system. I even have my first Tiny Trainer 3ch wing to get me started .
Nope mustn't get distracted again: airboat first, then finish the Edge and finally build the Sea Otter. Then I can think about alternative projects like the Grunjet and a scratch built powered glider.

 

[FlyerInStyle]

ok. but do you know any tips on making a uc-1 twin seabee?

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

If your going the sea plane route start with something like the Sea Otter, once you have that under your belt you can use the experience to build the Sea Bee.
Just remember when you do build it, dont make the same mistake the designers made of under powering it

 

[FlyerInStyle]

I do not want to fly it off water, just maybe for others. I said that in my challenge, for which I will be entering this is has to have the possibility to be modified for floats atleast in the snow, but be stol. this is the only stol seaplane I found, that has a water hull not a pair of floats, this is mostly for the snow as I have a ton of sonwo pouring down around me as I speak. I found a papercraft model, adn printed it out at a viable scale but am confused on how to build it from the foam. the papercraft is attached here: could you please do me a favor and help me make a set iiv viable bending foam style foam plans for something tlike the tiny trainer 3 channel wing? I got the paper model printed out at about 350% but realized that it is a very bad set of plans, could you do me a favor, @IanT, or anyone who has the time, help me make a good set of plans from this.