Scale Build-Off Sig Quarter Scale Piper Cub

[ScottyWarpNine]

Wooohoo making progress, started the left wing! Right wing is just about done minus cutting the aileron and covering.

I've also officially decided on a livery. I didn't want to do another plain yellow cub, and Joker is doing an USAAC paint scheme, so I'm going to go with silver and build a Flitfire!

 

[Joker 53150]

Nice choice! The classic "Cub Yellow" looks good, but it's sooooo common.

 

[ScottyWarpNine]

I'm focusing on the Piper right now over the C-47 because I actually have a chance of finishing this in time for the contest deadline, while I have an extra month or so to finish the C-47 before Flite Fest.

The left wing is coming together pretty quick. I permanently fixed the center section and I am about to sheet to top of the leading edge. Then comes attaching the jury strut mounts, the wingtip, and a whole lot of sanding to shape the leading edge and rounded tip and trailing edge. Once that is done it will be time to cut the ailerons on both wings.

I've been thinking about paint a little bit. My initial thaught was to use the "Scale Stits System" which uses four more Poly-Fiber products in addition to the Poly-Tak that i have been using to adhere the fabric to the wood. I would need to buy a fabric sealer, a product that makes the fabric more opaque, a filler, and finally a paint (which requires their special thinner, sold separately). The total cost would be about $90. No thank you.

Instead, I'm taking an idea from the world of full scale experimental aviation. Apparently regular latex house paint works pretty well. It is an acrylic paint that adheres to Dacron's polyester fibers very well and even protects the cloth against harmful UV light. I did an experiment on a scrap of Dacron to see how well the latex would stick to the cloth. Needless to say, I'm pretty impressed.

On the right is one coat, and on the left is two coats. The paint soaks into the weave of the cloth and really bonds well to the fibers. The fabric remains flexible, and the paint doesn't crack or flake off. One coat was enough that there were no visible pin holes through the fabric. The second coat did not bleed through to the other side, and left a nice satin finish. Very impressed with the results, and I'm much happier with the cost. Now I just need to find latex in silver.

 

[Joker 53150]

Interesting...! I'll be watching your results as I get ideas for the eventual re-covering of my Clipped Wing Cub.

 

[ScottyWarpNine]

I'm gonna need a bigger car.

 

[Joker 53150]

Ha! If you think it's big now, wait until it's fully covered! It seems much larger then, once you can't see through it.

 

[AkimboGlueGuns]

Nice work so far, I'm digging the floats!

 

[ScottyWarpNine]

I made a small thing to test some paint. I covered this small thing with dacron and shrinked it like I normally would, then put on two coats of normal silver acrylic paint from the craft store. Not too bad. could use two more coats probably, to be more opaque, but I'm much happier with the price. Don't pay any attention to the bubbling in the paint. I was impatient and burnt it with a heat gun.

 

[Joker 53150]

I like the price for the approach you're taking, but will that many layers of paint be a big weight penalty?

 

[ScottyWarpNine]

That a good question, and I don't really know. They're not really thick coats, and I'm pretty satisfied with 3 coats. But I wonder how it compares with all of the different coats of sealers and opaque layers and paint of the Poly system. Maybe there is another option that I'm overlooking altogether?

 

[Joker 53150]

Although expensive (by comparison) the Solartex covering may end up being lighter, depending on the weight of the paint & adhesive. I'm thinking far in advance, but if I end up re-covering my Clipped Wing Cub I could just use white Solartex and then add color with light layers of paint. Real fabric with paint is the more authentic way to go, but the time and mess involved with painting is something I could live without.

 

[ScottyWarpNine]

I ordered a dummy continental engine from top notch products. Cant wait to build it, the pictures look fantastic!

I have been steadily finishing the wings and fuselage covering. I may just go for the real deal as far as paint goes. I'd rather do it right the first time than have to tear it all off and re do it.

Weather has been warming up in Ohio so I'll be able to fiberglass the floats in my garage in the near future.

Progress pics will be coming shortly.

 

[ScottyWarpNine]

Engine kit came and it has been a super fun mini build:

If there is one thing that I have learned from the C-47 and Cub builds, its that I'm a sucker for engine detail

 

[Joker 53150]

That's a very detailed looking kit!

 

[ScottyWarpNine]

She's naked again, which means I got fed up with the Dakron and I'm going to use Solartex. I was having problems with Dakron sticking well and that stuff is hard to work with because the edges fray just by looking at it. I also was not happy with the latex paint coverage, and the proper stuff would end up costing about $80. I'd rather just buy Solartex. I think it would give me a nicer finish in the end, and with a lot less work.

Kinda bummed that I bought a bunch of Dakron for this, but oh well. It was a learning experience, and I can definitely see how it is easier to use for a larger scale (Full Scale) application. I'll use it to cover a skin on frame kayak or something.

Joker, can I get away with simply buying a 10meter roll, or should I got for the 15? You said in your build that seams are easy to hide, so I'm not opposed to having a seam on the bottom of the wing if necessary.

I began doing some interior details

 

[Joker 53150]

Too bad the other covering didn't work out, but you'll be happy with the Solartex and how easy it is to work with.

I got 2 of the 5 meter rolls for mine, one each Cub Yellow and Light Blue. With a full size wing (not the clipped wing) you'll need just over 5 meters total for the wing itself. Since mine had the yellow center I was able to just use some scraps to fill in the bottom center of the wing (where it's sheeted) so it wasn't very visible. I'm not 100% sure how I'd do it with 2 rolls the same color, but would absolutely reserve enough full-length pieces to do the wing tops first, followed by enough to do the sides and top of the fuselage. Wing bottom would be next, and ideally you'd want the seams to fall on the big sheeted areas near the fuselage. My wing covering was done using as little excess "overhang" as possible since I knew I'd need as much material as possible. Last, the bottom of the fuselage could be made from whatever you have left over since it's the least visible area of the plane.

So with all that said, you can certainly cover it with 2 rolls at 5 meters. But check the pricing and if it's close I'd say go with the 15 so you can avoid the extra seams and have extra material in case you need to fix some problems later on.

To hide the seams as much as possible you'll want to make sure the "grain" of the fabric runs the same direction. Unlike regular coverings this has the nice fabric weave to it and as long as the weave direction doesn't change you're in good shape. Also, this stuff is kind of thick, so make sure you've got room in areas like the ailerons and rudder so the movable surfaces don't get hung-up on the extra thickness you're going to add.

 

[willsonman]

Solartex is the BEST covering material for looks. Unfortunately it is also one of, if not the, heaviest film coverings out there.

 

[Joker 53150]

Fortunately, a Cub this size can carry that extra weight with no problem.

 

[ScottyWarpNine]

I was mistaken, there is no 15 meter roll, just 2, 5, and 10. Tonight I'm going to order a 10 meter roll and I'll try my best to conserve. 10 meters is $117 for silver!

 

[willsonman]

Welcome to the higher entry cost of large models.