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Simple Scout - my next build (with UK foam board)

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
#21
As far as props go, an 8x4 probably will fly it, but it would be underpowered. Something like a 9 inch or 10 inch is going to make a big difference. I have flown my Simple Stick (roughly the same size as the scout) on a b pack (985 kv) on an 8x8 prop and it flew well - slightly underpowered but still a lot of fun. Cutting out parts of the tail and fuse should work.
 

Homey

Elite member
#23
Finished the main build, just the cosmetic parts to do.

But I have a problem. Even with everything in, and a 1300mah 3s battery as far forward as it'll go, it's still really tail heavy.

I've got 5g wheel balancing weights that I could add to balance it, but I'm reluctant to add weight.

What are my options?

I was thinking of cutting out some fuselage sections, but leaving enough struts for strength, and doing same on the tail plane.

I've got thin coloured packing tape that I plan to cover it with, so that would cover the holes.

View attachment 166983
I think you'll be okay if you add some ballast or go with a 1500 if you have one. Also with the above mentioned prop suggestions, the thrust to weight ratio should be fine.

Peter
 

messyhead

Well-known member
#26
It balances with 40g of weight added. This will be under the turtle deck, and I'm going to use velcro so I can take some off when I add the wheels. I'll finish off all the other little bits and check it again, as adding the exhausts will add a little weight making it slightly nose down.

It's all up weight is 620g.

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Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
#28
For future reference!

The fuselage tail boom does not need a great deal of strength especially as you have no undercarriage and so you can lighten the boom by removing all of the internal paper.
The tail feathers, (horizontal and vertical stabs), can have their span reduced by 10% without any significant change is control responses, (you may need to increase the maximum control deflections slightly but it is not normally noticeable).
You can omit the rear deck former and the turtledeck.
You could fit the tail servos further forward and use a "Pull-Pull" control setup for the tail surfaces using braided fishing line. Done properly it does not need to have control horns fitted but rather just a few pieces of a toothpick and a little glue.

On the fuselage forward of the balance point;
You could position the Powerpod a little further forward, make the firewall out of a heavier material, or even use a heavier motor or battery.
Add a spinner, (metal ones are heavier).
Reinforce the nose with additional material or even a little light ply.
Add landing gear.
Use a FB or balsa forward deck

Just a few thoughts!

Have fun!
 

messyhead

Well-known member
#29
It's been a while since I've been on here. Between moving house, and the pandemic, there was a bit of a break.

I finally finished the Scout, with the undercarriage. I had to repair the tail as it got torn off in storage, and the aileron control rods as well.

I haven't flown it yet though. I should be getting some 10x6 props today, and lighter wheels as I think the ones I've got are a bit heavy.

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#31
Hi folks. I’ve got a question about the CG. The plan says 2.25” from the LE. But as I’ve lengthened the nose by 30mm to account for the heavier foam board, does that change the CG?
The Scout flies great and has some flexibility with the CG anyway. That said, Just move the batt back if it seems too nose heavy. The CG is the CG, it's my understanding that moving more weight to the nose, or lengthening the arm, means more weight should be moved back to offset, not change the CG. Adjust your batt to suit you if it does not seem right, but I would go with what is on the plans. I have built 6 FT planes the past few months and they always seem to fly better initially a little nose heavy. That is where I will start on every one I build from now on. The ones I had the most trouble with were the ones in the beginning when I tried to balance perfectly.