Total newb just trying to maiden my Simple Cub!

[InsatiableAmos]

Hey Folks! Just finished my speedbuild Simple Cub and tried to maiden it today...unsuccessfully. Here's how it went:

1. Learned about ground loops! Pavement walkway wasn't parallel to the wind, so crosswinds while learning to taxi were tough.
2. Learned about somersaults! Grass was entirely too thick for taxiing, so a few run-up attempts were cut short in the grass.
3. Learned I don't yet have the reflexes or muscle memory to fly well! After #1&2 I just gunned it with a hint of up-elevator, got it off the ground...and then into almost a full left-wingover into a cartwheel landing. In hindsight, this was dumb because it was kinda cross-wind.
4. Learned I need more props and airframe reinforcements! Snapped my prop, BBQ skewers holding wing rubber bands elongated their holes, and landing gear starting to get loose in its slot. All fixable, though!
5. Learned to swallow my excitement and be patient. I could've field-repaired my plane and tried again but decided I should find a field or day with less wind and maybe better taxiing space before using up all 9 lives of my cub.

So, a few questions to make sure I can figure this out:

1. How much wind is too much wind for a noob trying to maiden and solo at the same time? Looking around, there were some clothing that would flap/show evidence of wind even though it didn't feel like much...
2. Is there a good simulator for mac computers that I can use with a transmitter? I haven't found one.
3. When launching as a total noob, is it generally better to try and take off from the ground conventionally, or hand-launch?
4. Will I have a genuinely easier or harder time with different airframes or airframe sizes (all still within the "trainer" class)? I ask because I went for the Simple Cub instead of the Mighty Mini Trainer, and now I'm wondering if that was a good idea...

Thanks! Super excited for attempt #2!

 

[The Hangar]

Hey Folks! Just finished my speedbuild Simple Cub and tried to maiden it today...unsuccessfully. Here's how it went:

1. Learned about ground loops! Pavement walkway wasn't parallel to the wind, so crosswinds while learning to taxi were tough.
2. Learned about somersaults! Grass was entirely too thick for taxiing, so a few run-up attempts were cut short in the grass.
3. Learned I don't yet have the reflexes or muscle memory to fly well! After #1&2 I just gunned it with a hint of up-elevator, got it off the ground...and then into almost a full left-wingover into a cartwheel landing. In hindsight, this was dumb because it was kinda cross-wind.
4. Learned I need more props and airframe reinforcements! Snapped my prop, BBQ skewers holding wing rubber bands elongated their holes, and landing gear starting to get loose in its slot. All fixable, though!
5. Learned to swallow my excitement and be patient. I could've field-repaired my plane and tried again but decided I should find a field or day with less wind and maybe better taxiing space before using up all 9 lives of my cub.

So, a few questions to make sure I can figure this out:

1. How much wind is too much wind for a noob trying to maiden and solo at the same time? Looking around, there were some clothing that would flap/show evidence of wind even though it didn't feel like much...
2. Is there a good simulator for mac computers that I can use with a transmitter? I haven't found one.
3. When launching as a total noob, is it generally better to try and take off from the ground conventionally, or hand-launch?
4. Will I have a genuinely easier or harder time with different airframes or airframe sizes (all still within the "trainer" class)? I ask because I went for the Simple Cub instead of the Mighty Mini Trainer, and now I'm wondering if that was a good idea...

Thanks! Super excited for attempt #2!

Welcome to the hobby! I started with the cub as well and went through a lot of props myself. I would recommend hand launching without the landing gear since I've found the cub isn't the easiest plane to do ground takeoffs with. Removing the LG will help reduce damage when you crash. When learning, I highly recommend no wind since it will make it much easier to fly. My biggest piece of advice is to keep your throws low and use SMALL transmitter inputs. The most common mistake I see new pilots make is over-turning, then overcorrecting which usually ends up in a crash. For the most part, the plane will fly itself, so consider your inputs as guiding the plane, not "flying" it. I like to tell pilots I'm training to just gently nudge the stick in the direction you want it to go, then release and let the plane self-stabilize itself. If you accidentally reverse the direction (easy to do when you're flying toward yourself,) it'll be easy to see and you can correct by nudging the stick the other way.
Good luck!

 

[InsatiableAmos]

Welcome to the hobby! I started with the cub as well and went through a lot of props myself. I would recommend hand launching without the landing gear since I've found the cub isn't the easiest plane to do ground takeoffs with. Removing the LG will help reduce damage when you crash. When learning, I highly recommend no wind since it will make it much easier to fly. My biggest piece of advice is to keep your throws low and use SMALL transmitter inputs. The most common mistake I see new pilots make is over-turning, then overcorrecting which usually ends up in a crash. For the most part, the plane will fly itself, so consider your inputs as guiding the plane, not "flying" it. I like to tell pilots I'm training to just gently nudge the stick in the direction you want it to go, then release and let the plane self-stabilize itself. If you accidentally reverse the direction (easy to do when you're flying toward yourself,) it'll be easy to see and you can correct by nudging the stick the other way.
Good luck!

Thanks, this is great advice! Will definitely try a hand-launch next time.

Side note: Love the YT channel - I also configured my cub with flaperons. Also, I LOVE that mini-scale FT Edge. Once I get the hang of this flying thing I'd love to trying it out! Is there a kit, or did you scale down the plans?

 

[The Hangar]

Thanks, this is great advice! Will definitely try a hand-launch next time.

Side note: Love the YT channel - I also configured my cub with flaperons. Also, I LOVE that mini-scale FT Edge. Once I get the hang of this flying thing I'd love to trying it out! Is there a kit, or did you scale down the plans?

Haha, thanks! The mini edge was just scaled down from FT’s plans at 70% I believe. It’s a lot of fun!

 

[Hai-Lee]

You experiences are common for the newbie.
Hand launching would be best for a start as long as you are able to remove the landing gear for better landings in the long grass and also it is advised to get someone else to throw it for you. DO not make any sudden throttle changes during the launch or the plane will roll and dive.

Set the throttle to a reasonable and continuous setting and just concentrate on flying it firstly.

For ground take offs I always recommend that the local persons fit tundra type wheels and tyres. The extra weight helps with pendulum stability and it makes grass height less important. Never just slam the throttle and apply up elevator or it will always roll left and cartwheel. Start taxiing with enough throttle to get it rolling and then increase the throttle slowly until the plane is racing across the field at full throttle, (tail up). Then apply a slight and momentary up elevator input and the plane should rise slowly into the air without any sudden veering.

To reduce take off speed for beginners I normally prop up the wing leading edge with a tongue depressor or similar. This will make the model seem to float more and lower the touchdown/crash speeds on landing. I also get my students to start out using the maximum SF prop that their model can support. Always set a dual rate switch and start flying using the lesser rate setting. If the wind increases and the plane becomes difficult to control, (due to turbulence), whilst flying I then recommend a quick increase in control authority by switching to high control rates, (for safety).

Wind speed is not as important as turbulence. If when windy the air is very turbulent then do not attempt to fly as a beginner. Once experienced or if there is not obvious turbulence then I allow my students to fly in wind speeds up to 60% of the planes maximum airspeed. Personally I will fly up to where my models JUST make headway into the wind but my experience level is in line with my flight hours.

When you reinforce a FB model you increase its weight and shift the future damage to another point. The increased weight can actually make future impacts more dramatic and damaging. For extra strength due to a determined lawn darting student I remove the internal paper in the nose and laminate the bare foam with 1mm balsa. You do need to be careful though because the extra rigidity can cause the motor to be damaged on impact with the ground.

Keep at it!

Have fun!

 

[InsatiableAmos]

You experiences are common for the newbie.
Hand launching would be best for a start as long as you are able to remove the landing gear for better landings in the long grass and also it is advised to get someone else to throw it for you. DO not make any sudden throttle changes during the launch or the plane will roll and dive.

Set the throttle to a reasonable and continuous setting and just concentrate on flying it firstly.

For ground take offs I always recommend that the local persons fit tundra type wheels and tyres. The extra weight helps with pendulum stability and it makes grass height less important. Never just slam the throttle and apply up elevator or it will always roll left and cartwheel. Start taxiing with enough throttle to get it rolling and then increase the throttle slowly until the plane is racing across the field at full throttle, (tail up). Then apply a slight and momentary up elevator input and the plane should rise slowly into the air without any sudden veering.

To reduce take off speed for beginners I normally prop up the wing leading edge with a tongue depressor or similar. This will make the model seem to float more and lower the touchdown/crash speeds on landing. I also get my students to start out using the maximum SF prop that their model can support. Always set a dual rate switch and start flying using the lesser rate setting. If the wind increases and the plane becomes difficult to control, (due to turbulence), whilst flying I then recommend a quick increase in control authority by switching to high control rates, (for safety).

Wind speed is not as important as turbulence. If when windy the air is very turbulent then do not attempt to fly as a beginner. Once experienced or if there is not obvious turbulence then I allow my students to fly in wind speeds up to 60% of the planes maximum airspeed. Personally I will fly up to where my models JUST make headway into the wind but my experience level is in line with my flight hours.

When you reinforce a FB model you increase its weight and shift the future damage to another point. The increased weight can actually make future impacts more dramatic and damaging. For extra strength due to a determined lawn darting student I remove the internal paper in the nose and laminate the bare foam with 1mm balsa. You do need to be careful though because the extra rigidity can cause the motor to be damaged on impact with the ground.

Keep at it!

Have fun!

Awesome! Great tips on how to launch + wind speeds. Will give it a shot and see how it goes.

Since I configured my cub with flaperons, should I start off with flaps engaged to get that floatiness, or just start with a clean wing?

 

[Hai-Lee]

Awesome! Great tips on how to launch + wind speeds. Will give it a shot and see how it goes.

Since I configured my cub with flaperons, should I start off with flaps engaged to get that floatiness, or just start with a clean wing?

Start with a clean wing!
Flaperons can be unforgiving in a near stall situation and can cause the inexperienced to crash a lot more.
The reasoning is that with inboard flaps the outboard ailerons can still provide some roll control when the wing stalls whereas with flaperons if the wing stalls all is lost! stall related crashes seem to plague the beginner and flaperon stalls seem to have the greatest damage attached, (from my experiences with my students).

Have fun!

 

[InsatiableAmos]

Success! Hand-launch with a clean wing worked great, and I even managed two soft landings in a row...not even a somersault. That third landing, though...less gentle.

Here's a video for anyone who needs a chuckle:

(now back to the workbench for some repairs...)

 

[The Hangar]

Success! Hand-launch with a clean wing worked great, and I even managed two soft landings in a row...not even a somersault. That third landing, though...less gentle.

Here's a video for anyone who needs a chuckle:

(now back to the workbench for some repairs...)

You’re getting the hang of it, good job! It takes some precision to be able to hit a pole like that, @sundown57 knows all about it...

 

[Monte.C]

Made me laugh out loud!
Hey congratulations! Looks like you're struggling a lot less than I did, before I learned that a well-trimmed plane walks right out of your hand.

How did that piling get there??

 

[Mr NCT]

Success! Hand-launch with a clean wing worked great, and I even managed two soft landings in a row...not even a somersault. That third landing, though...less gentle.

Here's a video for anyone who needs a chuckle:

(now back to the workbench for some repairs...)

Nice job and welcome to the madness! You might try launching left handed, it's helped me. Do like Josh and advance the throttle with your mouth. Looks silly but keeps your right hand on the stick.

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

Made me laugh out loud!
Hey congratulations! Looks like you're struggling a lot less than I did, before I learned that a well-trimmed plane walks right out of your hand.

How did that piling get there??
View attachment 199985

Come on every model RC plane enthusiast knows that God likes to play practical jokes on us and no matter how good a pilot and experience you are. You end up hitting trees, lamp posts, goal posts and all sorts of obstacles.
What you didn't know was that it wasn't pilot error, God moves them so you crash just so he can piss himself laughing at us all wondering how the hell that happened.
I've lost count how many times he has moved that runway up a good 2ft when I am coming in to land. He does the opposite with gliders I can never land the damn things because he keeps lowering the runway.
So now you know

 

[TheFlyingBrit]

Welcome to the hobby! I started with the cub as well and went through a lot of props myself. I would recommend hand launching without the landing gear since I've found the cub isn't the easiest plane to do ground takeoffs with. Removing the LG will help reduce damage when you crash. When learning, I highly recommend no wind since it will make it much easier to fly. My biggest piece of advice is to keep your throws low and use SMALL transmitter inputs. The most common mistake I see new pilots make is over-turning, then overcorrecting which usually ends up in a crash. For the most part, the plane will fly itself, so consider your inputs as guiding the plane, not "flying" it. I like to tell pilots I'm training to just gently nudge the stick in the direction you want it to go, then release and let the plane self-stabilize itself. If you accidentally reverse the direction (easy to do when you're flying toward yourself,) it'll be easy to see and you can correct by nudging the stick the other way.
Good luck!

I agree with you regards take off's with the cub not the easiest, particularly if your not to hot with your rudder control on the ground. It does like to wander and not being a particularly big plane it can be a handful.
I found once in the air its pretty docile as long as you don't drop your air speed too much, mine had a habit of tip stalling on turns if my speed was a bit low, landings I would also recommend a touch of throttle until its actually got wheels on the ground then cut the power. Finally bend the landing gear forward slightly, it does like to nose over when on landing on grass.

 

[Gnobuddy]

...Here's a video for anyone who needs a chuckle...

Nice flying (you are doing well, really!), and it's great that you have a sense of humour about the inevitable crashes.

One suggestion: do try and get in the habit of keeping the model always in front of you, rather than flying in circles and having to keep turning around to see it. Bad things tend to happen when the model gets behind you, especially when it gets behind you and also turns upside down!

Keeping the model in front of you at all times is actually vital for safety, both for yourself, and for anyone else present in the area. You can't see behind you, and there may be vulnerable pedestrians, joggers, children, pets, or cars back there - they tend to show up without your knowing it, while you're busy flying. If you let the model get behind you, you drastically increase the chances of crashing it into something or someone.

What works best is to draw an imaginary line across the flying field, in front of you, at a distance of at least 30 feet (10 metres), from left to right. When flying, keep the model always, always, always on the far side of that line from you.

I've seen more than one flying buddy go to the emergency room at the local hospital for stitches after a propeller chewed him up. The propellers on even these small, low-powered electric models can slice through your skin like scalpels. And they make multiple slashes, keeping on chewing on you and splattering blood around until someone finally either zeros the throttle, or grabs the model away.

This type of accident only happened at the park, where nobody understood the necessity for keeping models at a safe distance at all times when in flight. People often landed their models pointed directly towards themselves (dangerous), and often attempted to land quite close to their feet (maybe even more dangerous).

When I eventually joined an AMA club, I found out that it was standard safety practice there to never let the model get between the runway and the pilot stations - and the runway was always located at a good distance from the pilots. Even if something went badly wrong during a landing or take-off, there was little chance of the model smashing into a person.

You're doing very well, keep at it! And stay safe from slashing propellers!


-Gnobuddy

 

[The Hangar]

I agree with you regards take off's with the cub not the easiest, particularly if your not to hot with your rudder control on the ground. It does like to wander and not being a particularly big plane it can be a handful.
I found once in the air its pretty docile as long as you don't drop your air speed too much, mine had a habit of tip stalling on turns if my speed was a bit low, landings I would also recommend a touch of throttle until its actually got wheels on the ground then cut the power. Finally bend the landing gear forward slightly, it does like to nose over when on landing on grass.

100% agreed.

 

[daxian]

totally agree with gnobuddy ,and was about to post the same advice ...he got there before me !
otherwise good flites ...well done !

 

[InsatiableAmos]

One suggestion: do try and get in the habit of keeping the model always in front of you, rather than flying in circles and having to keep turning around to see it. Bad things tend to happen when the model gets behind you, especially when it gets behind you and also turns upside down!

Keeping the model in front of you at all times is actually vital for safety, both for yourself, and for anyone else present in the area. You can't see behind you, and there may be vulnerable pedestrians, joggers, children, pets, or cars back there - they tend to show up without your knowing it, while you're busy flying. If you let the model get behind you, you drastically increase the chances of crashing it into something or someone.
-Gnobuddy

Great tip! Will definitely make a point to do that next time...

Two more questions:

1. Looking for super slow, stable park fliers - what're the best FT Speed Build kits that fit that profile? I just bought a Tiny Trainer thinking that might be a good get as I wear down the Cub, but would love other thoughts.
2. Is it worth getting a Gyro setup? I figured learning without it would be best, but have heard it recommended once or twice...

 

[Mr NCT]

I'm a huge fan of the DR1. It was my 3rd build and was expecting a handful but it was slow and stable, very easy to fly. And it doesn't hurt that it makes me grin every time I fly it! I scratch built it but used the recommended power pack F and the Tattu 3s LiPo Battery 75C (11.1V/850mAh). With that set up I hand launch at about 60% throttle and cruise at about 40%. The one eccentricity of the plane is that it has enough lift that the throttle acts like the elevator, give it a goose and you'll gain altitude before you gain speed. Here's a video of a short take off with a 5mph wind at the plane's back and a throttle goose to about 80%.

 

[InsatiableAmos]

I'm a huge fan of the DR1. It was my 3rd build and was expecting a handful but it was slow and stable, very easy to fly. And it doesn't hurt that it makes me grin every time I fly it! ... Here's a video of a short take off with a 5mph wind at the plane's back and a throttle goose to about 80%.

Wow, that thing LEAPs off the ground! Looks like fun...

 

[Mr NCT]

It's my favorite. Started with the trainer, without and with ailerons. Did an SE5 which was very twitchy. And then the DR1. Since then I've built a cub, an explorer QB kit and then a 150% scale DR1. The mini DR1 is still my go to when I just want to fly and have fun and it can take a beating. This one has hit the ground hard, phone lines, trees and the barn.