WWI SE5A 1:6 SCALE FOR DAWN PATROL FF 2022

noahangel11

Well-known member
Been a while as I had some life stuff to take care of, vehicle issues, etc.

Tonight I bought a new box of foam and I got all the wing parts cut out and I also made a wire bend template for the strut and landing gear wires. That’s all I could manage tonight. Hope to find time tomorrow also.
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noahangel11

Well-known member
For the wing struts instead of joining the cross member to the struts with copper wire and solder, I used a technique I have done before to join metal rods. I wrapped the joint in braided fishing line and soaked the wrap with medium viscosity CA. Makes for a strong joint.
I just weighed in, no electronics except the 2 tail servos, 19oz so far.
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cyclone3350

Master member
For the wing struts instead of joining the cross member to the struts with copper wire and solder, I used a technique I have done before to join metal rods. I wrapped the joint in braided fishing line and soaked the wrap with medium viscosity CA. Makes for a strong joint.
I just weighed in, no electronics except the 2 tail servos, 19oz so far. View attachment 221734
I've used that with polyester upholstery thread & U R right, it is amazingly strong. Liking this build.(y)
 

noahangel11

Well-known member
SE5a update.
Tonight I got the motor mounted.
I added 2 degrees down and right thrust to it.

I used some drywall seam mesh tape for a radiator grille.

I also put the ESC and battery in, and currently I weigh in at 28 Oz total weight. No landing gear or wing servos, or 3D printed gun, pilot, engine dummy, etc.

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noahangel11

Well-known member
I got a lot done on the SE5a tonight!

I installed wing servos, pushrods, linkages between the top and bottom ailerons. I also swapped out the grey APC plastic prop with a nice wood one.
I cut out of ply a hinged tail skid and got it mounted. I notched the axles and got the wheel collars installed so the wheels don’t fall off.
I also started making cloth seam lines on the wings using some vinyl pinstriping tape. I plan to scuff it before I minwax the plane as the finish is glossy and I want the minwax to stick.

Todo (not in this order):
Axle wing and landing gear dress pieces.
3D print some parts such as guns and engine heads, wind screen.
Mount the pilot.
Finish cloth seam lines.
Minwax and Paint.
Radio receiver install and programming.
Dial in CG
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willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
If you'd like to go that extra 1/8th mile, there were also leading edge sub-ribs between each main rib. These sub ribs were short and did not extend very far but they too got rib tape (what you call seam lines) and contribute to the overall look of the wing. There are two of these between each main rib and they extend back only to where the main spar is. I'm not sure that scale location is the same as your foam adaptation but it's something worth googling if you feel so persuaded.

Now, if you wanted to go positively BONKERS, the wooden ribs were covered in fabric. What you refer to as "seam lines" are actually not seams at all. The rib tape I mentioned earlier was another layer of fabric doped over the rib. The methodology here is that the cap strip on the wood rib was secured to the fabric (or the fabric to the rib) by stitching the fabric and the rib together. Realizing the weak point this made in the fabric, an additional layer of fabric was laid over top of the stitching to gain that added strength. The edges of this fabric were "pinked" (look up pinking shears) so that if the doping was not perfect or there were bullet holes near the junction, the strength would remain as intact as possible. What I'm suggesting here is that you COULD go all out and try to replicate both the rib stitching AND the pinking of the rib tape. This can be done in a fairly easy way and I love to share my secrets. ;P

If you are curious about going down the rabbit hole of pinking... I highly recommend you visit the following link:
Pink-It tapes (dbalsa.com)
 

noahangel11

Well-known member
If you'd like to go that extra 1/8th mile, there were also leading edge sub-ribs between each main rib. These sub ribs were short and did not extend very far but they too got rib tape (what you call seam lines) and contribute to the overall look of the wing. There are two of these between each main rib and they extend back only to where the main spar is. I'm not sure that scale location is the same as your foam adaptation but it's something worth googling if you feel so persuaded.

Now, if you wanted to go positively BONKERS, the wooden ribs were covered in fabric. What you refer to as "seam lines" are actually not seams at all. The rib tape I mentioned earlier was another layer of fabric doped over the rib. The methodology here is that the cap strip on the wood rib was secured to the fabric (or the fabric to the rib) by stitching the fabric and the rib together. Realizing the weak point this made in the fabric, an additional layer of fabric was laid over top of the stitching to gain that added strength. The edges of this fabric were "pinked" (look up pinking shears) so that if the doping was not perfect or there were bullet holes near the junction, the strength would remain as intact as possible. What I'm suggesting here is that you COULD go all out and try to replicate both the rib stitching AND the pinking of the rib tape. This can be done in a fairly easy way and I love to share my secrets. ;P

If you are curious about going down the rabbit hole of pinking... I highly recommend you visit the following link:
Pink-It tapes (dbalsa.com)

Not trying to go bonkers on detail, I just wanted to somewhat have the wings and tail look like it had been taped. But that is for the very interesting info!