If you'd like to go that extra 1/8th mile, there were also leading edge sub-ribs between each main rib. These sub ribs were short and did not extend very far but they too got rib tape (what you call seam lines) and contribute to the overall look of the wing. There are two of these between each main rib and they extend back only to where the main spar is. I'm not sure that scale location is the same as your foam adaptation but it's something worth googling if you feel so persuaded.
Now, if you wanted to go positively BONKERS, the wooden ribs were covered in fabric. What you refer to as "seam lines" are actually not seams at all. The rib tape I mentioned earlier was another layer of fabric doped over the rib. The methodology here is that the cap strip on the wood rib was secured to the fabric (or the fabric to the rib) by stitching the fabric and the rib together. Realizing the weak point this made in the fabric, an additional layer of fabric was laid over top of the stitching to gain that added strength. The edges of this fabric were "pinked" (look up pinking shears) so that if the doping was not perfect or there were bullet holes near the junction, the strength would remain as intact as possible. What I'm suggesting here is that you COULD go all out and try to replicate both the rib stitching AND the pinking of the rib tape. This can be done in a fairly easy way and I love to share my
secrets. ;P
If you are curious about going down the rabbit hole of pinking... I highly recommend you visit the following link:
Pink-It tapes (dbalsa.com)
