It will if there's enough torque from the guitar string wire. I've only seen this done using fine piano wire. Since it's a glider the pressure on the control surface won't be much.
It will if there's enough torque from the guitar string wire. I've only seen this done using fine piano wire. Since it's a glider the pressure on the control surface won't be much.
That's my hope too - I wouldn't trust this on a fast model, but if I keep it slow... and I'm doing the "pull" action to counteract the propwash and to pull up
But now I'm running into a self-made problem stuffing in the electronics. With the motor wires going through the top of the wing down into the fuselage right above the control threads, things could get into a conflict there very easily. If I had gone with metal control rods it wouldn't be an issue, but using the spring loaded pull only is new to me. And since the wing is rubber band mounted and suppsed to be removable, there needs to be some slack in the wires in that design too. So yeah, that's not going to work so well.
So one plan is to let the motor wires come down the pylon and over the leading edge of the wing to enter through the hatch. Doesn't look as neat, but is mechanically safer. Or I could do some more significant surgery and move the servos further back which would solve the wire conflict but cost me a little more weight in the nose. Not sure which way to go yet...
On my Dad's we ran motor wires down the front edge of the pylon and into the hatch. We used colored heat shrink to encapsulate the motor wires that almost matched the covering and really couldn't tell it wasn't supposed to be that way.
On my Dad's we ran motor wires down the front edge of the pylon and into the hatch. We used colored heat shrink to encapsulate the motor wires that almost matched the covering and really couldn't tell it wasn't supposed to be that way.
The motor angle is pure S.W.A.G. aka T.L.A.R based on my experience with an indoor pylon motor plane I scratch built too. I don't expect it to work right the first time, but hopefully she will survive the maiden so I can make adjustments and fly her a second time
This looks great. I was going through a box of old kits I was given and an unopened Guppy was in there. My son and I are going to build it. Your build and photos are definitely helpful.
I was thinking about the same motor. What are you using for a battery: 2s or 3s? Are the servos 3.7 or 9gram? Let us know how it flies.
This looks great. I was going through a box of old kits I was given and an unopened Guppy was in there. My son and I are going to build it. Your build and photos are definitely helpful.
I was thinking about the same motor. What are you using for a battery: 2s or 3s? Are the servos 3.7 or 9gram? Let us know how it flies.
I'm planning on a 2s battery, and used little 3.7 gram servos - not sure how long it will be before I can get out to the field to fly again, but this is 1st on the list of 3 quarantine maiden flights so far
I've got an 1811 2900kv on 2s pushing a 5x4.5 prop - it might be a little overkill, but I can always throttle back or program in a throttle curve to keep it in a safe range.
Is that one of those micro 1811 motors, actually smaller than a 1806 motor? Like this? (1806 on the left, 1811 right)
Do you remember where you got it? I really like this motor but can't for the life of me remember where it came from.