CranialRectosis' Alien Build

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
I got this smoke tested without USB but have no idea how to arm the board.

Gonna have to play with it again after work when I have time to research it.

When you go through the radio setup wizard it disables arming so you can't accidentally arm things while setting up your transmitter.

You have to go to the Input page (left side) then the "Arming Settings" (tabs across the top) and choose your arming method. I also suggest setting the default arming timeout lower since that's how long your motors will stay in motion when failsafe activates if you have motor set to spin when armed. I usually go with 10 seconds. I'd go lower but I need a bit of time between arming and taking off :)
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
I'm sure Raceflight would work a treat with the Sparky 2.

Sorry JHit ;)

Personally I'm not expecting great things from RS2K's approach. But I'm glad he's doing it and am following his work. I'm not about to flash it to any of my boards though...I've got something else equally pre-release I'm trying right now ;)

FWIW - The Naze32 CAN do autotune and I was extremely happy with how it flew on the autotune. But I still haven't learned my lesson about doing flips over pavement before increasing my rates:

12334052_10153136342791805_549720113_o.jpg

On the upside...that motor was making nasty noises before this flight so if I was going to break one that was the one to break :D And found one on Amazon for <$15 shipped with my Prime membership so it will be here Monday.

May have to do some testing on the 280 though over the weekend.....
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
I have the copter assembled minus the extension for the FPV antenna and have been playing musical flash with the Sparky2.

I completed the setup wizard and then the radio wizard, disconnected from USB and armed the copter. I spun the motors and tested failsafe.

Then when I re-connected to USB, the GUI started flashing a critical error and I was forced to wipe the board and re-start the wizards.

I had the board back to where I could arm and have tested the motors for direction, synch, and failsafe. So I put props on her, took her outside and the board won't power up. I turn on the transmitter, connect the copter and the ESCs don't complete the boot up sequence. The Sparky2 flashes and goes dark. The OSD, vtx and camera all light up and work but the board won't stay powered from any lipo I use.

I'm thinking it's the Pololu or a connection to it as I can power the board via USB.

I'm re-soldering all the 5v connections now and going to try again.
 
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cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
Moto Tornado boards were back in stock today. I got an email at 10:20 PM last night. By 5:00AM this morning when I saw the email, they were out of stock again...

Ahh well...


I remember when KK2.0s were selling for $80 and Naze32s were so scarce people would buy 20 of them and sell them for a markup on eBAY. This was when minis were just 'taking off' and it helped push us past the KKs and then Baseflight to Cleanflight and now F3 and F4 boards.

This is an exciting time to be building! :)
 
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jipp

Senior Member
with the cc3d anyhow after you make a change you have to hard reboot it.. i make a change to it.. then i power off the cc3d FC, then power it back up and make sure it sticks. maybe this will work with sparky?

chris.
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
It was me and a bad solder joint on the PDB to the Pololu. Power to the Sparky2 was unstable without USB.

I know this because I repaired it, smoke tested and test flew it. It was the most boring, uneventful maiden I have EVER had. I have been hoping for this moment. When I would test fly a new copter and it wouldn't flip over and mow down the roses or go all wobbly climb 30ft in the air and crash on the concrete.

It makes for very boring video.

I test flew without the GoPro and before the adapters for the antenna and receiver arrived. I think I will replace this set with some SMAs and just get adapters for the tx in the future.

Anyway, it flies. It weighs just under 700 grams. I may still add a small GPS unit to this or some telemetry cabling but not much more.

P5080003.JPG P5080004.JPG

I found the basic settings on the Sparky2 to be very loose and sloppy (of course) but stable and easily flyable. I will run autotune when I have some more daylight and time and see what that gets me.

This is also my first copter on the new Taranis. I suspect the '0 voltage' warning it is telling me is because I haven't hooked up any telemetry from the rx to the Sparky2. I don't think the Sparky2 does voltage monitoring. I wonder if I can pull telemetry off the OSD back to the Taranis?
 
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C0d3M0nk3y

Posted a thousand or more times
This is also my first copter on the new Taranis. I suspect the '0 voltage' warning it is telling me is because I haven't hooked up any telemetry from the rx to the Sparky2.

I set my alerts so they're only active when voltage is greater than 1.0 V and less than whatever I want to set them at. That way, I don't get the annoying "false positive" warnings.
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
That's heavier than I expected. MY emax 280 is <600g with 1300 battery ready to fly and feels like a lead brick to me :)

You'll probably want to make an account on the Tau Forum and share your autotune results that way...they're kind of hard to cut and paste otherwise (though dRonin has made it super easy, with a share to a special "AutoTown" site and a separate button to put them on your clipboard for easy manual sharing...but dRonin is still about a month away from being something we should talk about so forget I mentioned it for now ;) )

Would love to see what kind of Tau figure you get, I'd expect it to be in the 20ms range (0.020) which is what a nice 250 seems to average at. You may get even lower...but Tau's autotune doesn't do well below 18ms or so. One early tester has pulled a Tau of <8ms on dRonin already, but that was with a micro brushless setup (1104 or 1105 motors on a dinky little frame) and at least two have pulled repeatable tau's of <9ms. I bet you'll come in a little under 20 with your setup.

And once you run that autotune it will fly MUCH better :)

You'll probably want to go to Stabilization->Advanced and bump up your stick scaling and expos a bit...at least if you're going to go for some flips you better unless you want to get LOTS of altitude first ;)

Can't wait to see it in the air!

And if I ever make it to Colorado...I'm peering over your shoulder while you solder and giving you tips :D
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
Mentor
You know what...I didn't have a camera on my 280...that's probably the big difference.

Still can't wait to see that beauty fly :D
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
Looks great. Weight seems reasonable with a 1300.

Thank you. I probably need some better 1800s. I have some but they are 30C so I started with the 45-90C 1300s.

I set my alerts so they're only active when voltage is greater than 1.0 V and less than whatever I want to set them at. That way, I don't get the annoying "false positive" warnings.

I pushed a lot of buttons on this Taranis to get it to do this. This is the first model where I have used the Taranis. I will fix the alerts just as soon as I figure out how. :)

Cool! What's your power setup and how much power does it produce?

I smoke tested and maidened with a 3S lipo, but will be flying 4S later today (weather permitting). This copter is designed to run 4S with Cobra 2206 2100kv motors spinning 6045 props. The KISS 30A ESCs should easily handle the power. As for thrust or watt testing, I don't know that I wanna run this machine WOT in the the house. :)

The sales site states this "a set of four of these motors will produce 10 pounds of static thrust for blistering acceleration and incredible top end speeds".

That's heavier than I expected. MY emax 280 is <600g with 1300 battery ready to fly and feels like a lead brick to me :)

This copter reminds me of the Twitchity Hex. It is STOUT. The PDB is HEAVY. No corners were cut on the carbon fiber or the PDB or the hardware on this kit. It has a SOLID feel. There is 0 wiggle, wobble, slip, slide or shimmy to this frame. 0. This is the best engineered frame I have ever seen.

It's heavy like an ice skate. In your hand it's clunky. On the bench it seems heavy and stupid. On the ice....

You'll probably want to make an account on the Tau Forum and share your autotune results that way

I did and I introduced myself in a hello post earlier this week. :)

Chop chop, jason! :D

And once you run that autotune it will fly MUCH better :)

You'll probably want to go to Stabilization->Advanced and bump up your stick scaling and expos a bit...at least if you're going to go for some flips you better unless you want to get LOTS of altitude first ;)

Can't wait to see it in the air!

Absolutely! Autotune once the wind dies down.

And if I ever make it to Colorado...I'm peering over your shoulder while you solder and giving you tips :D

New tip on the iron. It has an odd bevel. I just tipped it wrong the first time I used it and didn't take full advantage of the surface area and didn't bring enough heat. This PDB is very heavy. It is full of copper and it takes more heat than any other soldering job I have done in years. I got the solder on the other side for the video equipment right. It just took me a few minutes to learn...
 
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jipp

Senior Member
congrats, i think today i will work on my zmr project. it seems the taranis RX can give voltage too.. it also says if you do not set the RX fail safe it will remember its last signal and hold it possibly flying off..


im starting to wonder if i got over my heard with this damn radio.. at least i have it for when i am able to understand it.

i do have one question.. when you do not use a ESC with a linear BEC ( this is the one you do not have to disconnect the power wire going to the FC from three of the ESC... ) the other being switching BEC which you do have to disconnect 3 of the 4 power wires from the ESC before plugging into the FC>. im using the one that have no BEC dys Ns20 BlHeli ESC. so i did buy the lightest UBEC i could find.. from what i understand, i solder that to the power on the PDB, and then i can plug that into either the FC on a unused motor, or you can plug it into the RX too.. is there a advantage over one to the other?

sorry to high jack your build.. but figure this info would useful here for other builders.. i can not say iv seen this touched much.. i know you are using the polou to get the 5v instead of the lightest UBEC... but i do not remember it coming with any wires to attach it to the FC, just 2 sets of pin. so yeah trivial im sure, but if you not done it yet it may as well be like rocket science. laughs.

chris
 
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Cyberdactyl

Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Curious, do you have a way to angle up your DVR camera? If not, as I'm sure you know, as you get used to flying it, you'll start to get more and more beautiful video of the ground. ;)
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
congrats, i think today i will work on my zmr project. it seems the taranis RX can give voltage too.. it also says if you do not set the RX fail safe it will remember its last signal and hold it possibly flying off..

im starting to wonder if i got over my heard with this damn radio.. at least i have it for when i am able to understand it.

The Taranis has the ugliest interface ever. I thought OS2 was bad. The FrSky failsafe is one reason I like it. After you bind and reboot everything, turn the transmitter off and click the bind button on the receiver. This sets failsafe so that on lost signal the copter will fall out of the sky.

As for being in over your head, so long as there is a lifeguard, I know of no better incentive to learn to swim than being in the deep end of the pool. :)

i do have one question.. when you do not use a ESC with a linear BEC ( this is the one you do not have to disconnect the power wire going to the FC from three of the ESC... ) the other being switching BEC which you do have to disconnect 3 of the 4 power wires from the ESC before plugging into the FC>. im using the one that have no BEC dys Ns20 BlHeli ESC. so i did buy the lightest UBEC i could find.. from what i understand, i solder that to the power on the PDB, and then i can plug that into either the FC on a unused motor, or you can plug it into the RX too.. is there a advantage over one to the other?

sorry to high jack your build.. but figure this info would useful here for other builders.. i can not say iv seen this touched much.. i know you are using the polou to get the 5v instead of the lightest UBEC... but i do not remember it coming with any wires to attach it to the FC, just 2 sets of pin. so yeah trivial im sure, but if you not done it yet it may as well be like rocket science. laughs.

chris

Hijack away! I am sure I will do it to you someday. :)

I like the Pololus for their size. I have a few Suppo BECs around here but they are much larger so I don't use them unless I am building a larger machine. I haven't powered a flight controller from an ESC in years. I have never powered a flight controller from a receiver.

My thinking is this (and it may be seriously flawed). I want the flight controller to be as directly powered by the lipo as possible. If there is a brown out, I want anything else to take the voltage hit. I want the flight controller working as long as possible so it can return control to me so I can fly home. If the receiver browns out and comes back on, great! I fly home. If the flight controller browns out it will likely reboot mid-air...


Most ESCs come with a 3 pin servo connector. On a quad, I remove the power and ground wires from all 4 ESCs and replace the 3 pin connector with a single pin connector on 3 of the ESCs. This gives me 3 ESCs with only a signal connector and 1 ESC with only a signal wire going into a 3 pin connector.

I then connect the Pololu or BEC to the PDB and use servo wires as the outputs. I push the crimped ends of the servo wires into the 3 pin connector off the last ESC. This gives me 3 ESCs with only a signal connector and 1 ESC with signal from the ESC but 5V power and ground from the Pololu or BEC. I then connect the wires to the flight controller as per usual.

I have stacks of Arduino and servo wires here. Stacks. I also have 1,2,3,4 and 6 pin connectors in bags. I cut, crimp modify and create my own cables in the colors I want at will. I do not rely on wiring from Chinese electronics vendors very often. If I screw up (just call me SmokeTestHarry), it's on me and I have no-one to blame but myself and I like things that way. :)
 
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cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
Curious, do you have a way to angle up your DVR camera? If not, as I'm sure you know, as you get used to flying it, you'll start to get more and more beautiful video of the ground. ;)

In the photo, there is a chunk of foam connected to the bottom of the camera (inside the little protective case) that cushions the camera and tilts it about 15* (I have the FPV cam tilted about same).

It will be a few days (weeks, months...) before I am flying with a $300 GoPro fast enough to warrant a 30* tilt. :)

The two cameras are tilted about the same at about 15* today.

Will it work? I have no idea. :)
GoPro15DegPad.JPG
 

jipp

Senior Member
thanks that make sense.. i will connected to channel 5 ( motor 5 ) on the cc3d. the UBEC i found is this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231595525700?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
its the lightest 5v/3a i know of at 3.8g besides the polou which i have no place to solder in this project so will save it for another FC.

yeah the taranis will take me some time but i do like the freedom of open source offers. when i get to the binding part im probably gonna have questions.. but right now as long as the stupid PDB i bought indeed gives 12v for the spot it says it for FPV i will be good to start soldering up. i ordered another PDB just in case i need a back up with one that is labeled 5v, 12v on the darn thing.. instead of LED VT CD. ( this is the PDB i have on hand http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Power-...903072?hash=item28047ba1e0:g:IJMAAOSwPcVVtaKR ) heh.
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
thanks that make sense.. i will connected to channel 5 ( motor 5 ) on the cc3d. the UBEC i found is this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231595525700?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
its the lightest 5v/3a i know of at 3.8g besides the polou which i have no place to solder in this project so will save it for another FC.

yeah the taranis will take me some time but i do like the freedom of open source offers. when i get to the binding part im probably gonna have questions.. but right now as long as the stupid PDB i bought indeed gives 12v for the spot it says it for FPV i will be good to start soldering up. i ordered another PDB just in case i need a back up with one that is labeled 5v, 12v on the darn thing.. instead of LED VT CD. ( this is the PDB i have on hand http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Power-...903072?hash=item28047ba1e0:g:IJMAAOSwPcVVtaKR ) heh.

I say that to be FliteTesting you have to smoke a component from time to time. If you torch something consider it an initiation. :)

The PDB does not seem to have any components to regulate voltage on it. My PDB simply passes voltage from the lipo to various points on the copter. If I run 3S the PDB will supply <> 12v and drop as the lipo drains. If I run 4S, the PDB will supply <> 14v and drop as the lipo drains. Only voltage past the LC Filter or Pololu will remain 'constant'.

If you question the voltage on your PDB, connect it to a lipo and test the points with a multi-meter. I know it really isn't the 'smoke first and test later' concept that CranialRectosis advocates, but it should work and won't smell up the house. :)
 
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jipp

Senior Member
it has two switches.. i know the LED is 5v and the other part says its for FPV which i assume is 12v.. so yeah i will have to test it. i have one other question.

how do you normally secure you ESC to the frame.. i do not want them on the arms. Im thinking of using double stick tape and i guess i could use a zip tie too. or will the ESC get to hot for the double sided tape.. my logic is that would offer them a bit of cushion.

im just working on how im gonna make things fit at the moment with out a rats nest hopefully.
chris.