FTFC20 Remington Burnelli 2 designed by FoamyDM and Jpot1


Building Fool-Flying Noob
The Remington Bernelli RB-2

I watched this video... (Starting at the plane of interest)

Then was tickled by the flying Camper look to it. (I am gearing up to head out on a camping trip this weekend)


From Wiki:
The Burnelli RB-1,

often known as the Remington-Burnelli Airliner, was an American passenger biplane from 1920, designed by Vincent Burnelli.[1][3] It incorporated Burnelli's lifting-body design. Following several more conventional designs during the WWI years, Burnelli came up with the idea of a lifting body: an airfoil-shaped fuselage that could be used to generate up to 50% of the lift, improving performance, due to reduced wing area and fuel consumption.

The RB-1's body contributed about 27% of the total lifting area and was designed to support about 15% of its weight. The fuselage was built around plywood frames and was clad in corrugated duralumin. The two pilots were situated in a pair of open cockpits, each with a mechanic seated by his side. Its pair of Liberty engines were immediately in front of these cockpits, largely buried in the leading edge of the body but accessible from the cockpits. The body width of 14 ft (4.27 m) placed the engines only 10 ft 4 in (3.15 m) apart, with about 1 in (25 mm) clearance between propeller tips. The cabin housed up to 30 passengers. At the fixed "trailing edge" of the fuselage small twin fins mounted above its sides carried balanced rudders and short, mid-fuselage mounted tailplanes carried balanced elevators.[1]

It was a single bay equal span biplane, with simple parallel interplane struts and without stagger. The wings were wooden structures, fabric covered. The ailerons carried on both upper and lower wings had prominent tip balances.[1]

The RB-1 flew for the first time on 21 June 1921 from Curtiss Field, Long Island, piloted by Bert Acosta[1] and William P. Sullivan.[citation needed] Its performance was considered acceptable. However, the first model produced was badly damaged while on the ground during a storm.

Burnelli RB-2

  • Role Biplane freighter
  • National origin United States
  • Manufacturer Burnelli
  • Designer Vincent Burnelli
  • First flight 1924
  • Number built 1
  • Developed from Burnelli RB-1
The Burnelli RB-2 was a 1920s American twin-engined biplane freighter or airliner, designed by Vincent Burnelli with a lifting body fuselage. At the time it was the world's largest commercial freighter. It was the first aircraft to carry a motor car inside its fuselage.

Design and development[edit]
The RB-2 was based on the earlier RB-1 airliner, it had improved control surfaces and was powered by two 650 hp Galloway Atlantic piston engines.[4] It had a corrugated metal construction with a dural skin giving it an empty weight of 5 tons.[4] The passenger cabin could be fitted with 25 seats or used for freight.[4]

In 1925 the aircraft was used by the Hudson Motor Car Company as a flying showroom for the Essex automobile.[5]

Here are links to the site with the balsa plans: http://www.aircrash.org/burnelli/pdf/mod_rb2.pdf
I had a few moments and all of a sudden had this draft plan set:
PlanSetDraft.PNG v. Beta.01
PlanSetDraft2.PNG v. Beta.02 improvements: tabs & slots added, along with part labels, and a rough fuselage parts assembly diagram)

Full Size Plans V1.0
Linked are the Resource posted plans. These are complete with Tab-Slot references, and build diagrams The build has been tested at 1/2 scale.

This craft is set to be a twin C-pack motor system using 4 to 6-9g servos, and 10x4.7 slop fly props or 9x6s. This should have ample room for Batteries and weight Capacity to make them large. @jpot1 has graciously accepted the torch of building this unusual piece of history, from my designs, and try and get it flying. While i plan to try a 50% A/F-pack version with 5" props, It will be low on the priority list.

When looking at the Wing loading... it should be stupidly light.

Here are the projected stats:

Flight has occurred. it was tail-heavy and resulted in a crash disabling the craft temporarily.

Lessons Learned - Future Improvement
Include threaded cross-bracing to strengthen the wings. In the large C-pack version, have them able to be clipped and un-clipped so the wings can be removed simply.
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Building Fool-Flying Noob
Sweet. There are 9 sheets currently.
I will set up a 50% version. (Literally just shrunk down, and I will build it out of the dollar general 1/2 thick board. For A or F- pack.)
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Building Fool-Flying Noob
I had received a number of great questions from @jpot1 about some of the plan details and took a few moments to update the plans to include some better notation, tabbing and assembly diagrams and tab-slot notes. notably, I didn't need the middle lower wing section, after rearranging I was able to eliminate a page.
PlanSetDraft2.PNG the tab notes look like this -> RB-2_NotchDiagram.PNG
I will update the plan in post 1 after it gets tested. PM me if you want to try this at your own peril. 8 sheets.

I then threw together a 50% built version, perfect for the half thick Dollar General board. I bought the BIG sheet ($4.5 28"x44"). After some trimming and gluing, it was perfect for this 50% project. and nice that it is only 2 sheets.
I have the plans mounted and am ready to start cutting, when it makes sense.
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Building Fool-Flying Noob
Logo Making Process Video
While working on this I put together a Longer video (20min) on how to make a Logo, or picture, using AutoCAD lite. for the plan do show what you're in for.

This is my first one of these. There is no sound. I haven't had the time to edit it or speed up any sections, and is not listed for that reason.
Do you find this kind of thing helpful?
When I make another, what should be sure to include?


Building Fool-Flying Noob
I started cutting and assembling this 1/2 scale model
IMG_20191105_191729953.jpg IMG_20191105_223738159.jpg
I noticed a few minor issues so far. I do like what I'm seeing
IMG_20191106_071757950.jpg IMG_20191106_071805527.jpg IMG_20191106_073509710.jpg
I used the rear of the craft knife to smooth the opening
Then finished the rest
IMG_20191106_074556306.jpg IMG_20191106_074600041.jpg IMG_20191106_073509710.jpg
The spar joiners are too wide by two widths. And the wing needs some darts to account for the angle.
Lastly, the fuse spar vertical pieces are just a thickness short I think.
Tonight I should be able to close the fuse and piece it together.


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Building Fool-Flying Noob
Made some more progress on the model.
IMG_20191106_075544318.jpg IMG_20191106_073509710.jpg
The fuse spar fit and all sub-pieces fit well except being a tad high -1 thickness.
IMG_20191106_074556306.jpg IMG_20191106_074600041.jpg
The pods front window was 2 thicknesses too small.
IMG_20191106_074542205.jpg IMG_20191106_234323978.jpg IMG_20191106_214021700.jpg
The wing spars need darts for the outer edges.
IMG_20191106_071757950.jpg IMG_20191106_071805527.jpg IMG_20191106_234339031.jpg
Also the tail is just the wrong size. It'll work for now.
With that all said, it it starting to look like a plane in the sketch. Next step. Rigging and electronics.


Building Fool-Flying Noob
Thanks for that :giggle:. I think this is my most involved planset yet! Maybe some of my work on the VF-9.

I've worked with Cadd my whole adult life. I would enjoy working with the flitetest folks. In the meantime, I'm glad to have good plans for me and others to work with

Access hatch size and location will be important here.


Building Fool-Flying Noob
Here's an update picture.
things to note; Electronics placement kills my production. Posts are 4.75" high.
I glued a 5" BBQ skewer along the lower spar tongues. And notched out a corner in the fuse to accept it. The Friction fit feels adequate.
The hatch is about 3.5"x4" starting at the rear of the fuse spar, centered.

I am deciding how to mount the top wing and if I should put in string bracing. And if so how. I will be mounting the upper wings sitting on the vertical posts. the bands will latch into horizontal posts glued into the fuse spar.

Last piece is landing gear. craft sticks for the main struts drilled trough for the landscaping wire axle.

A 3s appears to fit through the fuse spar holes. (room for two). The motor pods are VERY SNUG, while as designed, this means your motor and wall will stress the pod when installing and removing. I like this, as it relieves stress from the bbq/toothpick alignment pin. That also means the tabs work... a little too well.
I also want these to fit Flitetest swap able power pods I possible. Based on the firewalls I have, I'm only a tad off. (~3/32"?)

Finish treatment discussion:

This is the type of surface treatment that would please me. Foil paper and masked spray glue will be a friend of mind for this idea.
or this:
I would worry about the weight, maybe more like this that is thin paper and foil.

Windows, I wonder if water bottle caps (the thin white-ish plastic ones) would be perfect porthole frames. and Gatorade bottle caps for the c-pack scale.
Either way I want the end product to be just as fun.
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Skill Collector
That thin paper and foil looks like it could work well on flat or simple curves - hopefully won't have any compound curve surfaces to deal with. If this works well, you've got a finish process for a classic Ford Trimotor too! :D


Legendary member
That looks really cool,

That thin foil might possibly effect your radio signal , heck if I know but it just came to mind.


Building Fool-Flying Noob
That thin paper and foil looks like it could work well on flat or simple curves - hopefully won't have any compound curve surfaces to deal with. If this works well, you've got a finish process for a classic Ford Trimotor too! :D

This model has no compound curves which makes this foil corrugations ideal. although I imagine the scale of them may not fit well. As my shop teachers always said, "Looks good from my house. :cool:". This months issue of AMA Mag has an article on how to mimic corrugations with paint. Lots of painstaking work.

I hope to have the servos in. (I can't find my free receivers!)


Building Fool-Flying Noob
Another progress update. Servos and horns in.
IMG_20191204_005642981.jpg IMG_20191204_005618575.jpg IMG_20191204_005531638.jpg IMG_20191204_005527463.jpg IMG_20191204_005522807.jpg IMG_20191204_005506597.jpg
After testing this morning I found one aileron post is loose. It may need epoxy... Otherwise things look good. I need to mount the motors and get in landing gear.


Legendary member
It's the weakest part of the craft. And most likely to fail.
Should work as longs as the wire is strong enough. I did roughly the same pivot on my A-10 but I used the complete top portion of a dead servo that way I had a larger contact surface to glue it on with less chance of flexing on the foam.


Building Fool-Flying Noob
Pod notes.
The pod I built is 1/2 scale, that means 1" instead of 2". A/F-pods are 1.2" for 1/2 scale plans. I need to adjust the walls and openings.


Legendary member
Somewhere I read about you wanting corrugated look. There is I believe not only in packing material but also flooring foam that is ribbed on one side. Some sheets I have are called Selitac they measure about 48" x 36" , more underlay for hardwood floors, it's labeled as 3mm but it doesn't look that thick. The cool part of these flat sheets they have a ribbed side to them so it will bend nice one way and be more ridged the other.