KK2.1 Issue With the Screen

[Mastrmindz]

Hey guys.
I recently went flying and tested a new 2200mAh 3s turnigy battery on my tricopter. After one bouncy landing, it went head-over-heels. The KK2.1 board was initially alright, but when I unplugged the battery and replugged it, something went wrong with the screen. I have the image inserted below.

I have checked the connections and nothing reveals any shorting occurring. I have tried to flash new firmware to it, but nothing is working. I have tried to flash Steveis' latest 1.9 firmware and I do get some words on the screen, but it does not take me to the start screen. Everything else gives me the previous image. Has anyone else had this problem? I really hope it is fixable. Let me know if there is a solution.

 

[Craftydan]

Is that screen static or snowy?

It looks to me like the screen cable has come loose. the cable wraps around underneath the screen at the bottom.

- pull off the ESC and RX connectors to give yourself some room to work.

- gently peel up the board off the clear plastic frame from the top -- it's held on by double-sided tape. underneath you should see a connector with to tabs on either side of the connector.

- If the ribbon cable doesn't come out all on it's own, then *at the same time*, gently pull on both tabs toward the cable, and they should come out the ribbon should come out easily now.

- Check the cable and connector for any signs of damage

- If all looks good re-seat the cable by sliding the ribbon back into the slot as far as it will go, then push on the two brown tabs away from the cable to lock it in.

- Add some double sided tape to the screen back and re-seat it in the plastic frame.

 

[Mastrmindz]

Thanks Craftydan. It is a static screen.

 

[Cyberdactyl]

Ya I got a bit excited about a snowy screen without the connection being loose. . .in that full screen animation might be possible with the processing that's onboard...

 

[Mastrmindz]

Ok. I am little bit upset. I tried to do what you said and it is nearly impossible to do all of that with the LED holder in place. I really had to lift it up to see the port which the screen plugs into. When you do that, I bent the points at which it is soldered to the board, causing it to break off. *sigh.

If I managed to still keep it intact, I would really have to push the connector in really hard into the port while feeding the connector underneath the LED holder. This is very difficult. I tried doing this with the piece of the LED holder that was still soldered on and it is nearly impossible for my fingers. I would get it into the port and pulled the tabs to get it set, but it kept sliding out.

In short, I managed to break the LED screen holder off of my board, I do not get an image on my screen and I still only hear the first series of beeps.

I think the problem was something else. One thing should have mentioned earlier is that when that screen came on, only the first series of beeps sounded, not the final.

Oh well. I was planning on switching to an RTF flip board. The KK2.1 was sooooooooo annoying to tune. I could not get it to fly perfectly smooth.

Thanks for the help Craftydan.

-Mastrmindz

 

[Craftydan]

Sorry that happened Mastrmindz.

Mine came from the factory practically unglued from the plastic frame. While it's good that they've fixed that, it seems they've over-fixed it. And yes, that style of connector can be a BEAR to get reconnected.

A bad ROM is possible, but I would have expected a successful reflash would have settled that. Simply annoying.

The Flip boards are good, and to some degree expandable. They'll actually take a bit more work past the initial setup, but you can dial them much farther in. Paul also sells a OLED screen that plugs in and can perform many of the on-airframe configuration changes the kk2 can do, using your radio sticks. If you have a smartphone or tablet, he also sells a bluetooth module that will allow that device to connect to the board to do the same.