My way of scratchbuilding from ground up.
- Thread starter leaded50
- Start date
leaded50
Legendary member
Thanks! yes, a lot of this could be done by 3D computerization, eg. Still you would need a lot of measures to do. And eg, IF dont have perfect views to use, you will lose much scale in view. Personally i want to build a plane, not be stuck on computer to make it just digital.
When making a plane, totally from scratch, without any plans, this i found was the easiest way for me to do.... even if it dont make ready plans for later use without much extra work in scanning all parts after assembly check.
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leaded50
Legendary member
Same build technique as done on FT Master Build Series airplanes. Backpaper removed of the foamboard part, and gentle draw forth and back with pressure against eg a table edge. More on places where you want a sharper rounding. Do this till you get approx the shape wanted in circumference . Many gentle draws, is always better than single "hard one", since chanche you break the foam is there then, instead of compressing the foam, to a shape.
This parts is shown , and talked about in many of the FT Master Build Series videos.
This parts is shown , and talked about in many of the FT Master Build Series videos.
GrizWiz
Elite member
Thanks you are a great resource! I have been designing master series style airplanes in cad but I will try your way. I do have a few questions though.
1. How do you get you skins into 2d cad?
2. If using a single sheet of paper for the skins how do you trim down the formers to fit the foam board skin?
3. What do you use to get you paper to stick around the formers when making plans for skins!
1. How do you get you skins into 2d cad?
2. If using a single sheet of paper for the skins how do you trim down the formers to fit the foam board skin?
3. What do you use to get you paper to stick around the formers when making plans for skins!
leaded50
Legendary member
1. CAD? ... i dont use any, just make it as it shown here. Trace the formers off two formers on the paper fastned around with a pen, and cut the paper after. (i make a plane i can fly, not a digital one at a computer..
ha,ha )2.We always know the thickness of the foamboard we use for skins, eg. 5mm, 3mm and such. When i followed the outer lines on the picture/ drawings on profile to make the formers, i know this is with also thickness off the skin foamboard. When i cut out the formers , i make markings for how much needs cut off later, eg 5mm round all the way. That can be measured out, used a tool, or just witn good fingertraining. (how you hold the marker and fingers when following outer edge.
3. just a very few tape bits. more isnt needed. Point is to get it tight, without any "bulges or wrinkles", when you then trace where the formers are at the paper, it get right. Its no problem get a few tape bits to stick at where its a former behind eg. The paper is anyway made as a tight fitted "cylinder"
If needed somewhere i adjust accordingly the edges of the different skins in the joints with as always a sharp knife blade, to fit as good as possible.
Also remember @GrizWiz , most of planes ive made, dont have any plans at all, some drawings, scetches, some pictures, and with luck a 3D view drawing is what you have to make it.
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GrizWiz
Elite member
Cool Thanks! For 1. I meant how do you get you skins to adobe illustrator or whatever you use
You can use the scanner on your printer and then trace them out in illustrator and then scale them to the tight size.
leaded50
Legendary member
- As @The Hangar says, thats the way. .. to sit scan a couple of A4 of one part, and put the part together correct after for digitalize it, have never been my way of building. It will do it harder to make one similar plane more, but i also know i can do it, same way as the first one. If needed... even if not stuck with "ready plans of parts".
But if wanna scan a part, its needed be loose. not started glued in place, adjusted in place against other parts, eg. (who happends many times for me at least, when building totally from scratch without any plans) Yeah.. can make a papercopy when its in place though.... more work, without building
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GrizWiz
Elite member
Cool Thanks!
leaded50
Legendary member
some asks on how i can get such nice looking builds, when it can close to be looking "crap" in mid of build.
Here is one example. Some builders works with paintbrush/sign-brushes, make scratches eg to get a "used/weathered" look.
Here at the tailfin of one of my builds, some paint was stuck to the maskingtape when removed.... does it give a weathered/used look? Or should it be masked again and painted to a perfect look? ....
NEVER!
This gives exactly whats can be ment with the build..its a warbird! . Not fresh polished out of factory doors, but used in fights somewhere far from polish machines.
Some things, depending on plane type, yes, it should look nice. A working horse, who was known to get shot at, in fights, trough trees, eg.. should never look perfectly shiny as a showmachine!.
The paint that was teared off wasnt made intented , but will in this build give something extra, positively!
Make your models fits its purpose. Dont be afraid its wrong, or not perfect enough... its all up to YOO to enjoy it!
Detailing in right places, at right style, can hide imperfections, but also give the little extra positive on that plane!
Here is one example. Some builders works with paintbrush/sign-brushes, make scratches eg to get a "used/weathered" look.
Here at the tailfin of one of my builds, some paint was stuck to the maskingtape when removed.... does it give a weathered/used look? Or should it be masked again and painted to a perfect look? ....
NEVER!
This gives exactly whats can be ment with the build..its a warbird! . Not fresh polished out of factory doors, but used in fights somewhere far from polish machines.
Some things, depending on plane type, yes, it should look nice. A working horse, who was known to get shot at, in fights, trough trees, eg.. should never look perfectly shiny as a showmachine!.
The paint that was teared off wasnt made intented , but will in this build give something extra, positively!
Make your models fits its purpose. Dont be afraid its wrong, or not perfect enough... its all up to YOO to enjoy it!
Detailing in right places, at right style, can hide imperfections, but also give the little extra positive on that plane!
leaded50
Legendary member
look at this "crappy" nose.... it even have places where you can see edges of foamboard cuts easy, its used no sanding, no filler. Can it be looking nice anyway?
Look at these two pictures. if the checkered part is in black and yellow, and the black is put in right places, where the imperfections/scores are, would you see it? Definitly not at a few feet away.... just wait, ill put out a picture when done.
What i should done though before painted the yellow, was to put on a thin layer of woodglue to dry on the open foamedges in front, so the spraypaint didnt "chewed" some on the foam and maked it irregular in cut at front.
Look at these two pictures. if the checkered part is in black and yellow, and the black is put in right places, where the imperfections/scores are, would you see it? Definitly not at a few feet away.... just wait, ill put out a picture when done.
What i should done though before painted the yellow, was to put on a thin layer of woodglue to dry on the open foamedges in front, so the spraypaint didnt "chewed" some on the foam and maked it irregular in cut at front.
leaded50
Legendary member
This last checkered painting was done totally "free hand" no guidelines eg. made. Totally perfect every square? For sure not, but the pattern is so disturbing for the eye, that it dont follow every error, thats just by a few "overcritical judges", and people "in fear" it isnt good enough for other too see in just their mind. When we do somehing, (whatever what) many is supercrtitical to get it correct in every aspect, because of their own fear of errors, even if unsure what a error is, or if will have any impact.
Many peoples creativity is killed by that, people didnt dare trying in fear of failure... sad enough.
In this checkered pattern i needed make a couple much thinner squares to get it to fit with the circumference... they are put at the bottom... that will say, the plane is in the sky in some distance anyway to be shown. "The critics" judges when plane is standing at the strip... aka from above...where its pretty ok.
Many peoples creativity is killed by that, people didnt dare trying in fear of failure... sad enough.
In this checkered pattern i needed make a couple much thinner squares to get it to fit with the circumference... they are put at the bottom... that will say, the plane is in the sky in some distance anyway to be shown. "The critics" judges when plane is standing at the strip... aka from above...where its pretty ok.
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Timmy
Legendary member
I like the hint of green on thatsome asks on how i can get such nice looking builds, when it can close to be looking "crap" in mid of build.
Here is one example. Some builders works with paintbrush/sign-brushes, make scratches eg to get a "used/weathered" look.
Here at the tailfin of one of my builds, some paint was stuck to the maskingtape when removed.... does it give a weathered/used look? Or should it be masked again and painted to a perfect look? ....
NEVER!
This gives exactly whats can be ment with the build..its a warbird! . Not fresh polished out of factory doors, but used in fights somewhere far from polish machines.
Some things, depending on plane type, yes, it should look nice. A working horse, who was known to get shot at, in fights, trough trees, eg.. should never look perfectly shiny as a showmachine!.
The paint that was teared off wasnt made intented , but will in this build give something extra, positively!
Make your models fits its purpose. Dont be afraid its wrong, or not perfect enough... its all up to YOO to enjoy it!
Detailing in right places, at right style, can hide imperfections, but also give the little extra positive on that plane!
View attachment 182890
leaded50
Legendary member
well... one and a half wing, and my last can of green get empty
... theyall got a overpsray with Antrasit grey on my build 
leaded50
Legendary member
On seaplanes, must many have, or will get needed help steering with also a water-rudder. If connected to the tailrudder, just one servo is needed, and if should use a pushrod inside from the servo, you will never get it watertight at servo connection on top of a tube. . A penetrations in the hull will never be watertight with just a rod, or shorter tube.. As on the picture here, i uses a plastictube (red) the whole way glued in at bottom and to top under tail rudder. Through this goes the ss rod, bendt in both ends to keep in place, and also stay with movement of tail-rudder. (blue) This needs follow in line of the tail-rudder, and where motion is "in center".NB! Remember to glu in the water-rudder in same angle as the tail-rudder.
- This way no water can come into the fuselage, just through/into the plastic pipe.
- This way no water can come into the fuselage, just through/into the plastic pipe.
Attachments
leaded50
Legendary member
i always start with parts of a bottle, who has some/ or similar shape i want. If necessary heat a little carefully with a heatgun, to shape more. Till this day, even "dual-curbed" (curbs in different way as a bowl-style) parts of a bottle can be found if looking around.
Cut it out in sections (as front windshield/ "slide - open" part/ rear part, all time let cuts be sideways of the plane, where actual frames on original canopys are.
Then a little glue with eg a toothpick to put together the sections carefully with just glue at the cutedge, not "splashing all over". Normally uses canopy glue, or eg 2k epoxyglue, never hot glue, since it heats for deformation on the canopy plastic.
If needs extra reinforcing,i use a bow of pushrod following exact the shape of a canopy part connection inside, glued.
All dried, its to paint the frames, the color as the plane, or alu-silver, and a black thin stripe around each "window". To do easier, the black can be painted first, then the alu or plane color, since then easier to make the black line thin.
Another way is use a thin black permanent marker in stead of the black paint stripe.
If the canopy has a more square top shape, as the Me109 cut just V at sides to form, and let the top be untouched.
Many times, checking a papercraft model plan, would give you good ideas on to cut if are thin plastic. Anyway a way to learn more how to make canopys... even if they normally are cut out as one part.
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