My way of scratchbuilding from ground up.

[leaded50]

if you see this canopy, you will see, the frontpart are quite flat in front, and angled to rear at sides. There it meet a "bulby"-style part who was the sliding opening part (typical English style.. ) , before it meet the flat uniform rear to the end of the canopy. 3 parts, same bottle !!

PS, as you perhaps see, ive made a edge of foamboard shaped to fit the canopy lastic angles where they meet the fuselage. Thats because they also is glued to a inner structure going down a bit, tight fitted to the cut out opening..... then i have a hatch..... the canopy is the hatch

 

[leaded50]

a tip on how can make a small frontarea of the fuselage even with using a powerpod who is bigger than cowl opening.

At many mini style planes a standard powepod dont get space, to get out/in at front cowling, without making the cowl wider, perhaps loosing nice profile lines of the plane.

Here, the whole frontal part is glued together with powerpod as one unit, and can be moved forward from the rest of fuselage. The way its done is that a couple of formers to rear got an exact opening as the powerpod,(with tabs removed of the pod) fastned as typical FT builds with a couple of scewers trough fuselage. Or even get panels rearwards to fit the powepod size tight.
Difference is... it also holds the whole frontpart, and can be done even with motor up front. Then you get motor, esc front in one movable unit, even if long enough with the reciver up there.

Normal, with frontunit to rear (not locked with scewers here though. That will give a even less showing connection if done properly and pushed tight before locked.

 

[leaded50]

when making detachable wings, my solution to keep them in place is this green plastic screws, into wing from underside through rear "paintstick/plywood spar". Easy to screw in (or remove) without tools, lightweighted, but strong enough if not a total chrash..
Cut in length to not get trough wing, and plywood reinforcing at underside of wing, keeps from deforming. This screws dont need be tight fastned anyway, they are there for out/in movement, not up/down.

 

[The Hangar]

when making detachable wings, my solution to keep them in place is this green plastic screws, into wing from underside through rear "paintstick/plywood spar". Easy to screw in (or remove) without tools, lightweighted, but strong enough if not a total chrash..
Cut in length to not get trough wing, and plywood reinforcing at underside of wing, keeps from deforming. This screws dont need be tight fastned anyway, they are there for out/in movement, not up/down.

Where do you get them? At a hardware store?

 

[leaded50]

Where do you get them? At a hardware store?

i got a bag withh a friend. he bought it at Aliex. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32830075939.html?spm=2114.13010708.0.0.3a994c4dEokEJR

Plastic Bolt /Hand Thumb Screw seems be a accesory part for rc planes...

 

[leaded50]

many do think about the "popnails" at parts of the fuselage skins. How do it, and such. One way done by some in this forum too, is heat a small metall tube and stick against the paint. others make marks with a marker, pencil, some make a small hole with a needle, and so on. Here is the easiest way doing it. A tracking wheel!! Ment for use for stitch pattern tracing in sewing. Different sizes, different wheels with length between "trace needles eg.

Here is a example how it can look. Look at the seams between panel skins. This whole plane took me 10 min. with some measurements to do... the whole plane, even at wings over and under.

This is how it looks, the tracking wheel for sewing. Mine is bought at Ebay..

 

[GrizWiz]

many do think about the "popnails" at parts of the fuselage skins. How do it, and such. One way done by some in this forum too, is heat a small metall tube and stick against the paint. others make marks with a marker, pencil, some make a small hole with a needle, and so on. Here is the easiest way doing it. A tracking wheel!! Ment for use for stitch pattern tracing in sewing. Different sizes, different wheels with length between "trace needles eg.

Here is a example how it can look. Look at the seams between panel skins. This whole plane took me 10 min. with some measurements to do... the whole plane, even at wings over and under.
View attachment 191722

This is how it looks, the tracking wheel for sewing. Mine is bought at Ebay..
View attachment 191723

Wow! That is a cool way to make seams look good!

 

[leaded50]

Many discuss how to do paint without eating foam.
Easiest is to keep spray longer away, its the dillution/gas who does it.. and if paint areosol needs go further, it gets less of that at the model.
BUT, it will also possible make "orange skin", aka not floating enough for a "perfect" shiny surface.

Everyone who have done some detailing, sanding, eg, have an uneven skin joint who should be sanded ... also seen easy paint trouble at where the foamboard papercover is at edges, sanded hulls into the papercover to foam eg.

My way, is to use a waterthinned woodglue, smear it at all edges, joints, if foam or paper! And is not afraid to get something out of the edge too, it doesnt matter, just smear it even on the model, so no drops, glue edges eg when dries. Even moisture/water on fingers, to make the woodglue even more even at surface when beginned dry. You can easy wash it off your hands after. If necessary i do a light sanding with fine grade sandpaper when dried.
This way, you shut all foam and paperedges for spraypaint problem, and paper not easy lift over time, and it will give a harder outside.

What woodglue? doesnt matter it seems like, ive used different producers, indoor and outdoor types. Normally i use a coat (normally a light one) of clear spraypaint on all my planebuilds anyway, to secure everything. Sometimes i havent used paint ment for outdoors either, it doesnt matter, when the clear coat comes on.

 

[FlyerInStyle]

Many discuss how to do paint without eating foam.
Easiest is to keep spray longer away, its the dillution/gas who does it.. and if paint areosol needs go further, it gets less of that at the model.
BUT, it will also possible make "orange skin", aka not floating enough for a "perfect" shiny surface.

Everyone who have done some detailing, sanding, eg, have an uneven skin joint who should be sanded ... also seen easy paint trouble at where the foamboard papercover is at edges, sanded hulls into the papercover to foam eg.

My way, is to use a waterthinned woodglue, smear it at all edges, joints, if foam or paper! And is not afraid to get something out of the edge too, it doesnt matter, just smear it even on the model, so no drops, glue edges eg when dries. Even moisture/water on fingers, to make the woodglue even more even at surface when beginned dry. You can easy wash it off your hands after. If necessary i do a light sanding with fine grade sandpaper when dried.
This way, you shut all foam and paperedges for spraypaint problem, and paper not easy lift over time, and it will give a harder outside.

What woodglue? doesnt matter it seems like, ive used different producers, indoor and outdoor types. Normally i use a coat (normally a light one) of clear spraypaint on all my planebuilds anyway, to secure everything. Sometimes i havent used paint ment for outdoors either, it doesnt matter, when the clear coat comes on.

I am trying out to use polycrilic. will see how that works out.

 

[leaded50]

Tricks & tips for how you put the tail surfaces into the fuselage and keeping it all square.

BY RULER:

1. First Etablish correct vertical alignment of the planes fuselage, sitting flat on worksurface or floor eg. , Triangle-ruler at side and measure to reference point on fuselage. Referencepoint should be similar place on both sides. ( it can also be midline of fuselage/canopy eg.) Measure at both sides to adjust fuselage for correct alignement of fuselage vertically.
By using same method to establish the vertical alignement of fuselage, you can use to align the vertical tailfin. Triangle ruler on side, and check measure to the tailfin. Adjust to get correct similar measure on both sides of bottom and top. Then it will be aligned correct vertical.
( if making a "crib/stand" to keep the fuselage at place vertical aligned, its help for later work)


You can even use a ruler to control that the cut for wing at both sides match in height for wing.
If already glued the wing on, set it at a flat place (build surface/floor) and measure on both sides get height similar on both sides.
Some can lay on floor and be flat then.


Wing is measured correct mounted by measure from referencepoints on wing (drawing uses forward line of tip) to straight referncepoints on fuselage front. Eg a former skin connections, or all way to the cowl opening. Always do as far forward as possible.



If glued together vertical and horizontal surfaces of tail,set in 90* degrees by a ruler. Then you will have correct alignement of vertical to horizontal tail surfaces. then its just to get it right on the plane..... how to set the tailfin (horizontal) is shown over, and can be used for alignement of the tail vertically/horizontal.


2. I establish a centerline/thrustline all the way of fuselage (at longitudinal axis) . That centerline is set by plane in flat moving in air. Normally already done in 3D views, or plans. On a plane like the drawed here, its quite easy etablish. Center of prop, and to rear of fuselage by a flat line. By that, i know where the line is at rear, and front of fuselage.


With the fuselage fully vertical correct aligned, and longitudinal axis aligned by getting the centerline/thrustline flat by putting the model on stand, books, or something....
Measure on plans how high from centerline, or flat "groundline" to the horizontal stab, you know where it should be at the model. Mark it at both sides of fuselage. (if should be flat ( 0 degree) incident) opening/adjust opening to fit the stab.
Measure from underside of stab to groundsurface to get correct aligned height on both sides to control.
Adjust to get correct!


BY WATERPASS:
use same methode as by a triangle ruler to get correct alignement vertical of stab. Methode for getting vertical fin straight by uing nethode at top with the waterpass at same distance from tailfin at bottom and top.
Horizontal alignement for flat 0 degree incident is found by using the waterpass along the side in the wanted height of horizontal stab tailfins following along side at rear when fuselage is set flat at longitudinal axis on centerline/thrustline (as in air) .


INCIDENT:
angle on wing/horizontal tailsurfaces you can set by measure with rulers on front and rear of the wing/stab surface, when fuselage is set flat at longitudinal axis on centerline/thrustline (as in air) .
Turned eg fuselage upside down if have a flat bottom of wing, still set flat at longitudinal axis on centerline/thrustline (as in air) .... you can use a angle finder to adjust the incidents correctly by placing flat on wing/stab/tailfin -surfaces wanted to align.
Every angle of a surface (wing, horizontal/vertical fin) can be found by the anglefinder as long the fuselage is set in holder straight.

You can get anglefinders as the one pictured, or digital.. and even anglefinder apps for your mobilphone.



All types of measurements are by using reference points (eg at centerlines) and fuselage set correct vertical/horizontal


Every such surfaces written about here, can be adjusted a little before glue is set by holdning it at right angle till dries..
If testfit, and set correct at first, it will not be needed extrawork after.

 

[leaded50]

Steering on front wheel... by a plane that have differential thrust, i dont see it necessary to make it. As long it can revolve freely, and have the vertical axe in front of the center of the wheel, it will always get straight when plane moves forward on ground. You steer by differential thrust anyway, and a touch more eg. left, will then also turn the front wheel as fuselage turns.

But center ot the wheel needs be in back of the vertical point of where the landing gear is fastned.

 

[Scotto]

Tricks & tips for how you put the tail surfaces into the fuselage and keeping it all square.

BY RULER:

1. First Etablish correct vertical alignment of the planes fuselage, sitting flat on worksurface or floor eg. , Triangle-ruler at side and measure to reference point on fuselage. Referencepoint should be similar place on both sides. ( it can also be midline of fuselage/canopy eg.) Measure at both sides to adjust fuselage for correct alignement of fuselage vertically.
By using same method to establish the vertical alignement of fuselage, you can use to align the vertical tailfin. Triangle ruler on side, and check measure to the tailfin. Adjust to get correct similar measure on both sides of bottom and top. Then it will be aligned correct vertical.
( if making a "crib/stand" to keep the fuselage at place vertical aligned, its help for later work)

View attachment 208954
You can even use a ruler to control that the cut for wing at both sides match in height for wing.
If already glued the wing on, set it at a flat place (build surface/floor) and measure on both sides get height similar on both sides.
Some can lay on floor and be flat then.


Wing is measured correct mounted by measure from referencepoints on wing (drawing uses forward line of tip) to straight referncepoints on fuselage front. Eg a former skin connections, or all way to the cowl opening. Always do as far forward as possible.
View attachment 208955


If glued together vertical and horizontal surfaces of tail,set in 90* degrees by a ruler. Then you will have correct alignement of vertical to horizontal tail surfaces. then its just to get it right on the plane..... how to set the tailfin (horizontal) is shown over, and can be used for alignement of the tail vertically/horizontal.


2. I establish a centerline/thrustline all the way of fuselage (at longitudinal axis) . That centerline is set by plane in flat moving in air. Normally already done in 3D views, or plans. On a plane like the drawed here, its quite easy etablish. Center of prop, and to rear of fuselage by a flat line. By that, i know where the line is at rear, and front of fuselage.
View attachment 208953

With the fuselage fully vertical correct aligned, and longitudinal axis aligned by getting the centerline/thrustline flat by putting the model on stand, books, or something....
Measure on plans how high from centerline, or flat "groundline" to the horizontal stab, you know where it should be at the model. Mark it at both sides of fuselage. (if should be flat ( 0 degree) incident) opening/adjust opening to fit the stab.
Measure from underside of stab to groundsurface to get correct aligned height on both sides to control.
Adjust to get correct!


BY WATERPASS:
use same methode as by a triangle ruler to get correct alignement vertical of stab. Methode for getting vertical fin straight by uing nethode at top with the waterpass at same distance from tailfin at bottom and top.
Horizontal alignement for flat 0 degree incident is found by using the waterpass along the side in the wanted height of horizontal stab tailfins following along side at rear when fuselage is set flat at longitudinal axis on centerline/thrustline (as in air) .
View attachment 208960

INCIDENT:
angle on wing/horizontal tailsurfaces you can set by measure with rulers on front and rear of the wing/stab surface, when fuselage is set flat at longitudinal axis on centerline/thrustline (as in air) .
Turned eg fuselage upside down if have a flat bottom of wing, still set flat at longitudinal axis on centerline/thrustline (as in air) .... you can use a angle finder to adjust the incidents correctly by placing flat on wing/stab/tailfin -surfaces wanted to align.
Every angle of a surface (wing, horizontal/vertical fin) can be found by the anglefinder as long the fuselage is set in holder straight.

You can get anglefinders as the one pictured, or digital.. and even anglefinder apps for your mobilphone.
View attachment 208961


All types of measurements are by using reference points (eg at centerlines) and fuselage set correct vertical/horizontal


Every such surfaces written about here, can be adjusted a little before glue is set by holdning it at right angle till dries..
If testfit, and set correct at first, it will not be needed extrawork after.

Thanks for the information here. Thats quite a detailed little article. What I had done before was I had my template paper that I had wrapped around the formers and marked 12, 6, 3, and 9 O clock on it. I then marked the stab slot locations at 12, 3, and 9, and where the foam came together at 6. So I transfered that on foamboard, cut it out, rolled it into a nice cone, and went to cut the slots out where I had marked. And this is what it looked like.

Is that normal?

 

[leaded50]

Thanks for the information here. Thats quite a detailed little article. What I had done before was I had my template paper that I had wrapped around the formers and marked 12, 6, 3, and 9 O clock on it. I then marked the stab slot locations at 12, 3, and 9, and where the foam came together at 6. So I transfered that on foamboard, cut it out, rolled it into a nice cone, and went to cut the slots out where I had marked. And this is what it looked like. View attachment 209003
Is that normal?

also a way to do it. that way you find where slots should be... but not aligned fins...

 

[leaded50]

wingshape...
my way to strengthen 1 thickness foamboard and make a nice Trailing Edge on wing.

1. i cut out a "deep" V triangle in the TE edge as wide as the thickness of the foam, and remove the cutout. That leaves only approx the paper on both sides back on the end.

2. hot glue into the cutout, and edges pressed flat together with a alu stick/ or other object, squeezing out the extra glue..
(can also be used other type of glue, but then needs taped edge till dry..)

3. The "wing"-part is kept at angle at table, eg. 20 - 30 degrees (adjusted to fit) , that gives a more "uniform" shape on upper/lower side.

Held till dryed, and gets a nice shape as on the TE as at picture to right.

 

[leaded50]

to make a curbed reinforced wingend, this is my way.

1. on the extension (or at the curb if made in one piece) i loosen the paper on the inside of the curb. Then make curb as normal by gentle drawed against a table edge.
Glue the extension in place, edge to edge.

2. if a extension , glue in a paperstrip from a foamboard (paper only) after removed a bit of paper on the "wing"-parts inside curb.
That paperstrip should be wide enough to get a bit onto the wing, and on the extension.

When hold the extension (or outer part) at the angle wanted, with the loosened paper slided onto the wing, its just to mark on that paper where the paperstrip is. And cut that paper on the extension/outer part accordingly.

3. Then its just to glue the whole loosened paper in place, held to fit against the paperstrip, When glue dried, it will hold its shape... and with a uniform flat reinforced shape on the surface in the curb/ extension connection.
( It could also been done with some paper removed on the wing, and foam pluss outside paper on the extension removed to fit.)

 

[leaded50]

yes.... its a bit hairy my hands. It seems by age, some of the hair have "slided" down from top of head...... ha,ha

 

[Baron VonHelton]

a tip on how can make a small frontarea of the fuselage even with using a powerpod who is bigger than cowl opening.

At many mini style planes a standard powepod dont get space, to get out/in at front cowling, without making the cowl wider, perhaps loosing nice profile lines of the plane.

Here, the whole frontal part is glued together with powerpod as one unit, and can be moved forward from the rest of fuselage. The way its done is that a couple of formers to rear got an exact opening as the powerpod,(with tabs removed of the pod) fastned as typical FT builds with a couple of scewers trough fuselage. Or even get panels rearwards to fit the powepod size tight.
Difference is... it also holds the whole frontpart, and can be done even with motor up front. Then you get motor, esc front in one movable unit, even if long enough with the reciver up there.

Normal, with frontunit to rear (not locked with scewers here though. That will give a even less showing connection if done properly and pushed tight before locked.

Oh wow, a B-26......

 

[leaded50]

Oh wow, a B-26......

Never get it to fly good, and at end demolished too much to repair again...

 

[leaded50]

pushrods.......... you know the rods for TIG-welding, you can it get in different thickness, and they got stifness as any ss rod .

 

[leaded50]

FT foamboard vs, typical EU types.