Naze32 Rev 6 with Versacopter - little help please?

[thouser]

Hi everyone.
I've finally gotten around to building my Versacopter and have sourced my Naz32 rev 6 board outside of flitetest. In any case, I have it all soldered up (with a sidepin layout) and it seems the new board doesn't cleanly fit into the versacopter becuase of the 10x1 pin breakout cable layout. It'll be interesting to see how this is done but I thought I'd check here to see if anyone has done this successfully? It just doesn't seem like there's enough room. (I'm using a PWM setup with 10 wire breakout to the side.)

In the reviews of the Naze32 rev 6 board from the flitetest store, it seems NOTCHBAK had this installed but indicated a dremel was involved. This was mentioned by him in the reviews of the rev 6 board on the store. Ideas, thoughts?

 

[Swanno]

I responded to you on the thread "Ready to trash my new versacopter" and included pictures of my setup. Hopefully it helps.

 

[thouser]

Yes, very much so. I'm grateful to you for the help!

I responded to you on the thread "Ready to trash my new versacopter" and included pictures of my setup. Hopefully it helps.

 

[Swanno]

If you have any other problems just let me know, as you mentioned our setups are pretty similar so we might run into similar problems down the line.

 

[thouser]

Yes, Swanno, let's definitely stay in touch on this. I see the new rev6 video is out and while I haven't watched the whole thing yet, it looks like Josh has reversed the 10 pin connector on the rev6 to loop back over the board, providing additional room for mounting. My board is already soldered and I don't really want to get new pins and resolder it. <sigh>

I will review the other thread and see if I can make this work over the weekend. Unfortunately, real life has gotten in the way of hobby time lately.

Thanks very much again.
--T

 

[FlyingMonkey]

The way Josh had his Naze soldered blew me away. Instead of having the 90 degree pins facing away from the board, the way I'd do it, it face them in, then ran the cables across the top of the board. Made a very nice, clean fit.

 

[Swanno]

Yeah, I wasn't expecting how he had it setup either. My Brother saw the new version 2, versa-copter and was pleased with my version 1 so he decided to get one too. I ended up picking up the new upgrades as well with a few extra carbon fiber rods. I've been grounded since I broke my carbon fiber boom and it’s hard to find a suitable replacement boom around here. Real life does find a way of getting in the way of the 'life' I want to live ahahahha.

Either way I found the versa copter to be easy to pack into a bag and go out and fly even in windy conditions. The planes are a bit fiddly but still fun.

I will keep in touch; maybe we could share PID settings. I'm going to try the new ones Josh was using and maybe make my own slight alterations to fix horizon mode.

 

[Swanno]

I got my upgrade kit last week and I just went and flew the versa copter for the first time in a while. Still a bit sketchy, horizon has a few vibrations but I was going to switch to acro before I get too far into it. Didn't break a prop but when I rolled it on take-off because I failed to punch it up off the grass I cut my positive lead for my battery, only the insulation but still annoying. After de-soldering the positive lead I put some heat shrink on to cover up the cut in the insulation. Can't wait to get out again tomorrow and start working on turns a bit more. Still getting caught on when it inverts completely different to the planes.

 

[TexasTeacher]

The way Josh had his Naze soldered blew me away. Instead of having the 90 degree pins facing away from the board, the way I'd do it, it face them in, then ran the cables across the top of the board. Made a very nice, clean fit.

He had the 10 pin facing in and the 6 motor 90 degree motor hook ups facing out right?


If you are going to use the New Spektrum receiver that does PPM do you even need the 10 pin?

 

[Craftydan]

Nope sure don't.

Nice part is the PPM inputs on the first pin, so if you've got a good pair of dykes, cut the header in the middle of the 4th pin (sacrifice the pin -- cutting between pins on a single row more often than not destroys one side of the cut randomly) and solder your new 3-pin header in.

 

[TexasTeacher]

Nope sure don't.

Nice part is the PPM inputs on the first pin, so if you've got a good pair of dykes, cut the header in the middle of the 4th pin (sacrifice the pin -- cutting between pins on a single row more often than not destroys one side of the cut randomly) and solder your new 3-pin header in.

Dan,
i think i do not even have to use the header. I think i can just solder a lead directly to the board and eliminate the need for the headed on that side all together. then all i would need to attach are the 90 degree pins for the ESCs? I found a pic on the horizon hobbies site that i think shows what i mean

 

[Craftydan]

The header is just a connector . . . sure, you can direct solder, but if you've got space for the header it makes maintenance (and you will need to repair it at some point) a lot easier.

Your call.

 

[TexasTeacher]

The header is just a connector . . . sure, you can direct solder, but if you've got space for the header it makes maintenance (and you will need to repair it at some point) a lot easier.

Your call.

Good point. I was thinking it would help save a little bit of space and be three less connectors to have to worry about