Matthew Knotts
New member
So I have a 5000 mah 6s about as far forward as it can go and it barely balances. I have 17g servos for the elevators, and some very small leds in the nozzle. Would that affect the cg that much???
The Flite Test Master Series F-16 Viper, is released!
- Thread starter Test Fly RC
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- f-16 master series sbk
mcmoyer
Active member
1 To 1.5“ from the leading edge of the wing. I ran it against a CG locator and found it to be a bit behind that though - https://forum.flitetest.com/index.p...ries-f-16-viper-is-released.68214/post-704056
Where did you find the CG for this listed? Where do I measure from?
Thanks!
How does one 'reverse' an elevator servo? I had to rip one of mine out and install it the opposite way so it would work...My 90% build is complete. I used Ross foam board for flat things like the lower wing skin, former, etc. Adams for any curved surfaces. 815g with everything but the battery. Put metal gear servos on the elevators this time.
View attachment 221957
My favorite tweak is the removable nose for easier battery access
View attachment 221958
I did a bone headed maneuver though and forgot to reverse one of the elevator servos. On the plus side, I could pull a wicked corkscrew right now.
Mr NCT
Site Moderator
Most transmitters have a servo set up page or function that will let you reverse the servo direction, set travel, etc. What transmitter do you use?
I'm using a Spektrum DX8. Perhaps it's because I have both of my elevator servos on a Y cord... I suppose I could have set up one of those servos on an unused channel and tied them together, but I didn't think of it at the time...
mcmoyer
Active member
chobson303
Member
Where is the C7 skin? I just started build this bird and the build guide says to "add a bead of glue down the seam of the C7 skin. I can't find a part labeled C7. is the instructions for this part labeled wrong. The part C6 that I have tells me to glue former F3. Would this actually what should be described in the build guide (add a bead of glue down the seam of the C6 skin?)
Splinter189
Master member
There was a labeling issue. If you follow the mapping, the skins do correspond to the correct former.
chobson303
Member
Well, I finished my Master Series F-16. I must admit it will be a while before the maiden though.
mcmoyer
Active member
The weather finally cooperated and I was able to get my 80% build into the air. For a 64mm EDF I think this may be the ideal size. Both my 100% and 90% builds were just too floaty and couldn't get much speed in the air. This 80% build has got some speed to it. Was able to high alpha easily as well. It's got about 965g of thrust and my AUW is 880g. I got cocky and tried to launch vertical during my second flight. It didn't quite make it. Repairs were minimal though and it's ready to go back into the air. It's so much easier to orient in the sky than my Freewing gray on darker gray F-16 . Plus I know I can always create another one with $4 of foam board if needed.
I might start on a new one because I really want to try it with ailerons and elevator servos on separate channels. Plus, I'd like to make some better ailerons to give it a bit more roll authority. Oh, and now I have maker foam as well...oh the possibilities.
2nd photo is next to the carcass of the 90% build.
. Plus I know I can always create another one with $4 of foam board if needed.I might start on a new one because I really want to try it with ailerons and elevator servos on separate channels. Plus, I'd like to make some better ailerons to give it a bit more roll authority. Oh, and now I have maker foam as well...oh the possibilities.
2nd photo is next to the carcass of the 90% build.
Attachments
ScottInIowa
Member
Where did you end up with for a CG point on the original FT F16? I can't get close to 1 1/2" back - more like 2 1/2-3 with a 4000 mah 6S.The weather finally cooperated and I was able to get my 80% build into the air. For a 64mm EDF I think this may be the ideal size. Both my 100% and 90% builds were just too floaty and couldn't get much speed in the air. This 80% build has got some speed to it. Was able to high alpha easily as well. It's got about 965g of thrust and my AUW is 880g. I got cocky and tried to launch vertical during my second flight. It didn't quite make it. Repairs were minimal though and it's ready to go back into the air. It's so much easier to orient in the sky than my Freewing gray on darker gray F-16
I might start on a new one because I really want to try it with ailerons and elevator servos on separate channels. Plus, I'd like to make some better ailerons to give it a bit more roll authority. Oh, and now I have maker foam as well...oh the possibilities.
2nd photo is next to the carcass of the 90% build.
mcmoyer
Active member
I can't remember exactly where I ended up with the CG on the original FT-16, but I know I figured it out with this calculator.
Aircraft Center of Gravity Calculator
Calculates Plane's Center of Gravity (CG), the Aerodynamic Center (AC), Mean Aerodynamic Chord (MAC), Neutral Point (NP), Wing Loading, Wing Area and Stall Speed
rcplanes.online
Yankee2003
Well-known member
So did you trace out the kit parts? How does that work? If you trace around a part, then do you need to cut inside the traced line, or does it not matter?I'm going into this plane with the idea that I'll make a few iterations on it. I'd love to figure out a way to make the EDF unit serviceable. Since I just had to replace a bearing on my Marlin's EDF unit, this was in the back of my head as I glued the unit into place. Right now with this configuration, I'd need to destroy a large portion of the plane to get to the EDF.
In my mind, I paid $80 for the "plans", I just didn't have to print them out and paste them on poster board. The downside is that I can't down size the plans at all
View attachment 215318 View attachment 215319
And how did you end up scaling traced parts?
mcmoyer
Active member
Warning, this may sound a bit over the top: What I did was to arrange parts on a 22x28 poster board. The I used a ladder to use my DSLR with a 35mm lens to take a picture from around 10 feet high. This was to avoid barrel distortion that most cameras have. I did this until I had all the parts photographed. It took about 6 photos. Then I imported those photos into my iPad. I then used a free app called Vectornator that creates SVG drawings. I created a new drawing, 22x28 to match the size of the poster board. Then I imported one of the photos in as a background. I resized the background until it filled the entire canvas. Then I traced each part on the drawing. When I was done, I removed the background photo. Then did the same for the rest of the poster board photos. The end product was several SVG drawings that I've been able to scale to whatever size I want. The only issues that I've encountered are that A, B, and C folds need to be a bit larger on the downsized drawings and definitely areas where a set of formers insert into a cutout on the wings. I just cut the plan as printed and then modify it when I have the parts all cut out.
Yankee2003
Well-known member
wow…I was hoping a no. 2 pencil was involved..😀
Mr NCT
Site Moderator
What a great way to get it into you computer! Did you ever compete in a Rube Goldberg competition? (All in good fun
)
mcmoyer
Active member
😂 I wish it could have been that easy
