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The FT Flyer is Highly Questionable!!!

#1
Hey Y'all, Working on my first RC build :applause:

Progress: motor, props, tx/rx, and batteries are all in, waiting on an ESC from china.

I got bored this weekend and bought 2 sheets of foamboard, and was surprised to get an FT FLYER and a NUTBALL out of 2 sheets!!

BUT, I have a problem!!!

The FT Flyer Scratchbuild instructions say this thing:
1.JPG

But the store says this:
3.JPG

And the build article shows this:
2.JPG
(yeah, I'm a noob, but that ain't no 500mAh 2 cell!!!)


SO what's my point?

How do I know how big of a battery is too big? b/c I worry that my puny little 800 mAh 2-cells will give me a flight time of approximately 3 seconds, but also think that this might be a bit heavy for the flyer: 4.JPG

How do you find the balance between more capacity giving more flight time and too much weight burning out your motor/keeping you on the ground like an obese turkey-vulture?

Thanks for the help!!!

ps. for any of you who are scratching your heads at the title: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highly_Questionable
 
Last edited:

AkimboGlueGuns

Biplane Guy
Mentor
#3
Think of it this way, 3s = more power + more extra weight. The airplane will fly heavier this way, but it still makes more than enough lift to combat the added weight. 2s = less power + less extra weight. The airplane will fly lighter and slower, but you won't have the instant power on tap like you would with 3s. Both of the batteries last the same-ish amount of time, it's just the way the airplane flies which is different. For a beginner setup, it'd recommend the first couple flights be with 2s, but if you have previous flying experience, then a 3s is easily manageable .
 

Gryf

Active member
#5
I use an 800 mAh 3S pack in my Mini Arrow, and timed one of my recent flights at 12 minutes. I was impressed. ;-) I fling the Arrow around pretty enthusiastically, too... no "hypermiling."

So yeah, what Dan and Keegan said. Works really well for me.

Gryf
 

SlingShot

Maneuvering With Purpose
#6
Hey Y'all, Working on my first RC build :applause:

Progress: motor, props, tx/rx, and batteries are all in, waiting on an ESC from china.

I got bored this weekend and bought 2 sheets of foamboard, and was surprised to get an FT FLYER and a NUTBALL out of 2 sheets!!

BUT, I have a problem!!!

The FT Flyer Scratchbuild instructions say this thing:
View attachment 75354

But the store says this:
View attachment 75355

And the build article shows this:
View attachment 75356
(yeah, I'm a noob, but that ain't no 500mAh 2 cell!!!)


SO what's my point?

How do I know how big of a battery is too big? b/c I worry that my puny little 800 mAh 2-cells will give me a flight time of approximately 3 seconds, but also think that this might be a bit heavy for the flyer: View attachment 75357

How do you find the balance between more capacity giving more flight time and too much weight burning out your motor/keeping you on the ground like an obese turkey-vulture?

Thanks for the help!!!

ps. for any of you who are scratching your heads at the title: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highly_Questionable
Also that's a 6 cell in your photo if I'm not mistaken. Don't think you want that.

That 800 mah 3s sounds right. I like my 1300 mah 3s too.
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
#7
My guess is that this was designed over winter for indoor season. Then when good outdoor weather came along they adjusted the battery pack to better suit out door flight. Little heavier a little stronger to make it punch thru wind better. Not really cause for drama and extreme fonts I don't think but I'm old and not into loud noises anymore. :p
 

kdobson83

Well-known member
#9
I used a 500 mah 3s in my Flyer and consistently got 8+ minutes of almost full throttle on my 24 gram Hextronic. Unlimited vertical too. 2s in my mind is more for indoor like said previously.
 
#10
I've been using a 1300mah 3s in mine because it's built from ultra heavy aussie foam board. The big battery gets the cg right and lets me fly fast for ages. Great stuff.
 
#11
As an update, I've flown all the planes listed in the signature below with either an 850mah 2-cell or a 1300mah 3-cell, on a 2212 1000kv motor swinging 8 and 10 inch props.

With the 4 prop/battery configurations that gives, i have a GREAT range of options from a slow, gentle parkflier to WAY TOO MUCH power/speed for a noob (and as expected, devastating crashes have ensued)

Thanks again for your help everybody!!
 
#12
Where do you, those already flying an FT Flyer, mount the battery?

On the FT Store selections for.the FTF they "offer" the larger battery as an upgrade option.
Do you understand the voltage change between the 2s and 3s? And the difference between a 500- 800- 1000 my battery?
 
#13
Where do you, those already flying an FT Flyer, mount the battery?
The best setup i have done so far was to mount the ESC on the side of the power pod and have the 3s lipo right behind the motor inside the power pod. This took quite a bit of trial and error, and a good amount of modification, but it worked really well and was more conveniet - with the XT60 lead from the lipo routed out a hole... aft(?) [farther from the motor] of the ESC, i could plug/unplug without removing the power pod, and the balance was perfect

when i did my 850mah 2s lipos, i had to put both (i have 2) in the power pod to balance the plane

oh, and the receiver was just on the other side of the battery (from the motor)

Do you understand the voltage change between the 2s and 3s? And the difference between a 500- 800- 1000 my battery?
I might be wrong about stuff, but this is what i understand...

The motors are rated by kV, right - which is RPM per Volt applied. the ESC's function is to make it so that the range of voltages the motor "sees" range from 0 to the max voltage of the battery, so the advantage of the 3s over 2s is that the max voltage available is higher, therefore you can get higher RPM and more thrust.

**all contingent on the ability of the battery to maintain the voltage as it's being used up by the motor (C rating) and the ability of the ESC to handle the current being demanded by the motor
 

Hai-Lee

Old and Bold RC PILOT
#14
Due to the fact that the FB I use here in AUS is heavier than the DTFB, When I build an FT design I try to match motor, ESC, Etc But NOT the battery. When the plane is built I fit appropriate weight, (suggested battery equivalent), to determine if the CG balance point is obtainable within the suggested battery position range. If not I then either increase or decrease the weight until it balances. Noting the required weight for correct balance, the physical room for the battery and the Voltage required, I search for a battery which satisfies all of the requirements and that is the battery I purchase or use.

Normally the FT designs do appear to render tail heavy in the FB available here and so I get greater flight times than the original design.
 
#15
Depends on the motor you are using as well.

My Flyer like plane built of Depron and using a 24g Bluewonder 1300kv flew great on a 2 cell 800 or 1000 with a 9X5 GWS HD prop.
Could hover at just over half throttle and tear around fine on full. Flight times of 8 to 10 minutes.

Same setup on the old Nutball 800 2 cell, perfect.
 
#16
Honestly, on a big slow plane like the FT Flyer you have a lot of flexibility with battery options.

It's a lot of personal preference!

When I fly I usually get an undersized battery, because I prefer a lighter plane and higher thrust/weight to a longer flight time. Handling's funner and I can fly in a smaller space safely.

In many cases the battery selection is restricted by the balancing requirement (too light a battery could make some planes tail-heavy, but too heavy too nose heavy), but as long as you have the power to keep the plane up safely and the balance right, you have a lot of selection. I would stick to within +-50% of the capacity stated "on the box," to keep within reasonable bounds.

Try things! Have fun!