1/5 scale Gee Bee Model D (From foam to balsa)

cyclone3350

Master member
Wish Me Luck, I'm gonna need it! I'm about to DIY a glass cowl.

Spent the evening working on the patterns for the cowl. I still have a 2" thick nose block to carve out. For the first time, I can say that it is starting to look like a Sportster. The plan is to cut a plug from foam, use the poster board pattern to cut a 1/32" sheet balsa, wrap that around it & glass that. Then glass the nose block & glue it together. The goal is to have this thing ready to cover next weekend.
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Off-topic jes

Elite member
Wish Me Luck, I'm gonna need it! I'm about to DIY a glass cowl.

Spent the evening working on the patterns for the cowl. I still have a 2" thick nose block to carve out. For the first time, I can say that it is starting to look like a Sportster. The plan is to cut a plug from foam, use the poster board pattern to cut a 1/32" sheet balsa, wrap that around it & glass that. Then glass the nose block & glue it together. The goal is to have this thing ready to cover next weekend.
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You’ll do grate!
 

cyclone3350

Master member
Well so far the glassing is working out. With the patterns of the front & rear former, I made a foam core. For the sheeting I'm experimenting with 1/32" balsa. I'd figure if I am going to glass it, this should be enough without it being too thick. To do this, I glued the edges of 6" wide balsa to meet the required length. I've also found that it is best to cut the same sheet as the thickness matches perfectly. I took some wax paper & sprayed some 3M 77 on one side & then wrapped it around the foam core. Next , the balsa gets wrapped around that and glued the 2 ends together where it meets @ the bottom centerline. Slid it out ( took some finessing, but with care, got it out ) & did a dry fit to make sure it works. Too tight, so I slit the bottom center & added a 3/32" wide strip to make it wider. Put that over the foam & proceeded to glassing. I like to use these circle blade fabric cutters for cutting the glass cloth. This is 2oz cloth as I intend to make @ least 2 layers. I want this to have some strength, so I will see if BSI 15 min epoxy will work. Thinned it out with rubbing alcohol, brushed it on & squeegee with a credit card as much excess as possible. This sets pretty quick, so I did it in sections mixing smaller amounts as needed. Trimmed & removed after letting it sit for about 3 hours. Looks like it worked & feels like it has some strength to it. Next, I cut 3 pieces of 1" foam to make the nose block. Did some carving & sanding but still need to take it down to make it narrower & more rounded in the front. I used the Haffke plans which is a little wider than scale to better accommodate the radio gear. Even with this, It still doesn't leave much room. I also added 3/4" to the wing chord to better handle the extra weight of the ignition & batt. This definitely classifies it as a stand off vs true scale. Still looks like a D model to me. Another layer of 2oz, maybe 2 more, applied this time with Finish Cure 20 min BSI epoxy should do it. More shaping on the nose block & I think I will see if this can be glassed using Mod Podge Hard Coat and Finish Cure over that for fuel proofing.

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Off-topic jes

Elite member
I second that I’m not building a GB but you are a huge inspiration to all my builds and your tips are the reason I’m building my fourth scale wings out of foam core because now I know how to do A good spar method thank you very much
 

cyclone3350

Master member
It's been 6 days & this is all I have? Well, I did lose 4 days going back to the Mayo, so 2 more days on this dang nose block I guess isn't too bad. I wish I saw the video where @wilmracer did his Pitts Challenger out of fiberglass. It would have made this a lot easier. If U haven't seen it. check it out. Anyway, made the form from pink foam & don't ask me why, but I thought scooping out the foam when done was a good idea. I got it to work, but that was a bassackwards way of doing it. Put a total of 3 layers of 2oz cloth on the balsa section & that turned out to the strength & thickness I wanted. For the nose block, 2 layers of 2oz, 1 8oz & finished it with 1 1oz cloth. For the 2oz & 8oz, I put a very LIGHT mist of 3m 77 on the foam to place the cloth & put the corner slits where I needed them. This allowed me to smooth it out flat especially on the overlap slits, & brushing on the epoxy went on without a hitch. I used a poker card for a squeegee & layered each one that way. For the final layer, I used a wide sponge brush as a squeegee leaving some epoxy to fill the weave. Scooped out the foam by cutting squares & and a chisel 'till I got close to the glass part. them I used lacquer thinner to melt out the rest. This risked softening up the epoxy, but as long as I blotted it up quickly, it worked out is all I can say.

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wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
Looks great! Whatever works, right? Nothing wrong with the lost-foam method (as long as the first part comes out right ;))

Really enjoying this build. VERY nice building.
 

cyclone3350

Master member
Been dealing with some minor drug side effects so I haven't been able to work on this thing until yesterday. Got the rudder pull pull system set up and the the two elevator servos installed. Tested out the movements & throws & looks like it should work out fine. Now I am trying to work on the bracing wires for the tail & seeing what I can do to make this a little more scale like as well as making it functional for adjusting. Experimenting with Dubro parts & some odds & ends from the jewelry section from Hobby Lobby. Shall see if my idea works.

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Off-topic jes

Elite member
Do you guys just think it’s amazing that you can take some wood some sandpaper and a knife with some glue and build a marvel of engineering with your own hands!