1st Balsa Build in a Verrry Long Time! -- Looking for Advice

[prairiedawg_rc]

Hey everyone,

I've been kicking around the idea of trying to build w/ balsa again like I used to do w/ my father growing up. We built several stick & tissue free-flight models and a R/C Sig Kadet Kit w/ Kraft 4-CH set up. To be perfectly honest Dad did most of the building as I was Jr-High aged during most of the building period. Anyway here is what I'm thinking about tackling, let me know your thoughts:

Kit: Millennium RC Slow Stick X (http://millenniumrc.com/SlowStickX_XTrainer.html) - Leaning towards Trainer
Motor: Emax GT2215/12 900kv (http://www.headsuphobby.com/Emax-GT2215-12-900kv-Outrunner-Brushless-Motor-C-151.htm)
ESC: Sky Power 20A Switch Mode BEC (http://www.headsuphobby.com/Sky-Power-20A-ESC-with-Switchmode-BEC-H-406.htm)
Servos: Power Up 9g (http://www.headsuphobby.com/Power-Up-9g-Sub-Micro-Servo-H-400.htm)
Glue: Titebond, CA, or Deluxe Materials Super Phatic -- What's the best choice for a first timer?

 

[earthsciteach]

Looks good to me! That motor will definitely pull it around with plenty of power to spare. Can't beat HeadsUp for awesome customer service. Personally, I'd go with Titebond, but you can prob get away with CA for this build.

 

[Joker 53150]

I second TiteBond II glue. "Paint" it on with a small paintbrush to control the application rate. It's strong, forgiving, and cheap. Plus there are no strong odors like CA. I'll use it in 90% of my balsa work.

 

[prairiedawg_rc]

I second TiteBond II glue. "Paint" it on with a small paintbrush to control the application rate. It's strong, forgiving, and cheap. Plus there are no strong odors like CA. I'll use it in 90% of my balsa work.

Joker,

What kind/size of brush would you use?

Everyone, Thanks for the replies so far.

 

[Ken-The-Woodman]

A small artist brush should work fine. Titebond will more often than not be stronger than the wood and will give you time to work with it. Clamp every joint that you can, the tighter the fit the better it will bond. Also keep a damp cloth handy to wipe up overflow, the glue you see isn't holding anything only what's between the pieces of wood.

 

[Joker 53150]

Yup, just a small brush, small enough to get into the joint needing glue. This glue will also fill some small gaps which is nice, but the less you use the less weight you end up with. Clean-up of the brush is water.

 

[willsonman]

I agree. Titebond has many, MANY good properties. Use a small paint brush. If you are doing come compound curves you can also apply the glue, let it dry some, hold in place, and apply heat, all before it fully cures. It bonds wood to foam very well. So if you end up needing to fill a void with a foam block it will work there as well with the advantage that the glue can also be sanded. It makes excellent rives, flush and domed. It is very versatile. If you are just getting back into the building I would highly recommend it as it give you better working time so you are not rushing as you build. All your components look good. I would suggest you look into some of the pro/cons of coverings out there now. There are some good ones and not-so-good ones. I would highly recommend you give this list a once-over. Monokote varies in weight by color so my suggestion would be to use something light for your first build. First builds tend to be heavy. Not bagging on you, just my experience teaching builders. You could probably get away with something heavier on the wings but keep that tail as light as you can.