3meter FT Shinden (will not use imperial units if possible :)

[The Hangar]

I think that two 6s 4000's wired to make one 6s 8000 would be the proper battery size for the motor and ESC. But, since the batteries are pretty expensive I want to be sure, so does that sound right to you?

Yes, two 6s 4000 packs wired together (as parallel I believe) would make a 6s 8000.

 

[Ryan O.]

Yes, two 6s 4000 packs wired together (as parallel I believe) would make a 6s 8000.

Since I'm not flying for 10 mintues I thought 6s 8000 would be light, but also large enough for tge power system.

 

[Ryan O.]

I finsisjed the canards and tested it in the living room. It was a little nose heavy, but now I have my CG range and the mini model can be retired.

 

[Ryan O.]

I'll be picking up the foam board soon, and I'll keep diatance from the other guy.

 

[Ryan O.]

I got the foam. I have 4 sheets.

 

[Ryan O.]

I now plan to us the monster foam on the canards, vertical stabs, and the fuselage center section because I want to keep the wing loaing light. I'll have have a good roll rate to perform the turns at my field.

 

[Ryan O.]

The foam came really warped from storage over a long time, so I'm using everything, and the kitchrn sink would actually be really helpful, to weigh it down for 48 hours or more to reduce the warping.

 

[Ryan O.]

And that is just the CANARD! I plan to make it removanle with only plywood, 6 blind nuts, 6 washers, and 6 screws. I might also use thin aluminum on the bottom for extra strength. It is light as a feather, and really strong. It came out better than I though. BTW it is 1 meter in span.

 

[Ryan O.]

I plan to start on the vertical stab fins today. They would also need to be removable, but I don't know whether to make it a on piece that slides into a cun in the trailing edge, a one piece the slides in through a hole going straight down from top to bottom, or two pieces that slide in. I think the first one will work best, but I'm not sure how the wing will work. I plane to make the wing trailing edge spar be the main attachment point. Remember, the fin will function as landing gear for takeoff and landing.

 

[The Hangar]

I’d do a combination of the two - make half the slit in the vertical stab and the other half in the wing.

 

[Ryan O.]

I have the Vertical stabs cut out, and I won't be gluing them together until I get the wing done, because then I'll know where to cut and reinforce, which is already hard enough with one layer of monster foam😅 It will be doubled up like the canard was. The leading edge will be protected by some waterproof brown paper. I've actually been using Foam Tac on the curved surfaces of the leading edge for the canard because of its lightness, strength, and work time.

 

[Ryan O.]

I've decided on a 4x4in center core (sorry, it was easier than 10.16cm in this case). that is more than large enough for the required firewall, and also leaves me with half a sheet of Monster Foam left plus about another half sheet worth if smaller pieces which I'll be saving. The wing attatchment point and firewall will have a tripled up layer if monster foam for about 5cm in for added strength. The rest of the fuselage will be made out of formers, and the wing will be like a monster series wing, just a shear webbed main spar, a trailing and leading edge spar for the center section, and 3 removable pieces.

 

[Ryan O.]

The fuselage is actually going to have an extra several centimeters going back, and even more centineters going forward of the centet core. That fuselage is from a giant scale about to get some painting.

(yes, it will split into 3 pieces and have some basswood spars)

 

[The Hangar]

So that plane back there is a giant scale - what does it make the shinden - a mega giant?

 

[Ryan O.]

So that plane back there is a giant scale - what does it make the shinden - a mega giant?

I Don't think it is large ebough for the categories above, but we can make a new one 😅

 

[Ryan O.]

For the rear third of the aircraft I started out by taking some balasa plans, scaling it up, and making formers. For every former in the plans I had to make two more ones which I used a 3-view and guesswork to make. I decided to cover the left side of the fuselage, but leave the right side until I complete the wing. Each former is made from tripled up standard foam board with waterproof Flite Test foam for the outside 2, and DTFB with paper removed for lightness on the other gloued together with spray glue and a thin bead of hot glue on the border. the formers are attatched with hot glue and duct tap, and the last one uses some foam board on the inside to reinforce it. (The circle is actually the rear of the shinden where the motor will be mounted.

 

[Ryan O.]

I don't know what I shoul do for a spinner, sinc I don't want to drop a ton of cash on an aliminium spinner that weighs a ton, but I don't want to make a foram spinner since the prop might break quite often, and I want to be able to remove it for transport. What should I do?

 

[Ryan O.]

This covering job was actuappy much harder because of the noticeable narrowing and shear difference in height between the rear former and the 2nd one from the back.

 

[Ryan O.]

I finished the former for the next core third, and it killed the glue gun. Does anyone have any more news on the Flite Test Hot Glue Gun? If it is coming out in the next week I'll wait for it, but if not I'll buy a cheap dual temp hot glue gun until it does.

 

[Ryan O.]

The FT monster control horns seem a little over priced, I'd have to drop $30 for eight of them, and I only need 6. I'll just 3d print my own design out of PETG plastic.