"AT-6 Texan" Herr Kit #114 Rubber Power to RC Conversion
- Thread starter TooJung2Die
- Start date
TooJung2Die
Master member
Yellow seems to be a common color for the AT-6. I might go with the flow and make that the primary color.
TooJung2Die
Master member
Framed the left wing and aileron. I discovered the dihedral is easier to set if the 1/16" stringers are put in after setting the angle. I left them off on this side and cut them off on the first side I built. You learn important things like that after you carefully read the instructions. 😊
The aileron servo just fits inside this rib.
Bottom side of the servo tray.
Stacked and glued the balsa for the wing tips. There were nine of these pieces but only six are needed.
Jon
The aileron servo just fits inside this rib.
Bottom side of the servo tray.
Stacked and glued the balsa for the wing tips. There were nine of these pieces but only six are needed.
Jon
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Great looking build! I've always found 30" to be an unusual size to wrap my head around too, but I think you're on the right track with the ailerons too.
I'd also recommend thinking a lot about the dihedral / washout level - with a bigger wingspan I'd want to keep things pretty flat to be more maneuverable - but at this shorter wingspan the Reynold's numbers are already stacked against it so keeping (assuming the kit calls for any) or even increasing the dihedral might be good to keep her stable.
I'd also recommend thinking a lot about the dihedral / washout level - with a bigger wingspan I'd want to keep things pretty flat to be more maneuverable - but at this shorter wingspan the Reynold's numbers are already stacked against it so keeping (assuming the kit calls for any) or even increasing the dihedral might be good to keep her stable.
TooJung2Die
Master member
I'm taking a brief step back to think about this very thing. The free-flight dihedral in the plan is pretty generous; 1.25" at each outer rib. I want a good compromise between stability and maneuverability. I want it to be able to fly hands off but still be able to roll. What do you think if the dihedral was reduced 20% to an even one inch?
I like the size of this model. 30 inches is bigger than most Guillow's warbirds. I see this flying great with motors in the Willy Nillies range. A 1806-2300kv should give it vertical climb ability.
Jon
Ran across this thread where the only actual reported data (not just advice from the peanut gallery) is that the 1.25" per wing is more than scale and might look a little funny, it actually flew very well -
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/1-2-1-8-airplanes-70/9783158-herr-6-texan-dihedral-not.html
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/1-2-1-8-airplanes-70/9783158-herr-6-texan-dihedral-not.html
TooJung2Die
Master member
I saw that thread during my research. Thanks for finding it again. That AT-6 is the Herr 1/2A IC model. There is a lot more written about that Herr AT-6 kit than this rubber power kit. I don't think the 1.25" dihedral looks excessive. I can't think of a single airplane I ever built and flew where I thought the dihedral was too much. I have flown some where I wished I had added more dihedral.
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TooJung2Die
Master member
It's been a while but I have been taking my time and making slow progress. This is a winter build and there are many weeks ahead before the weather is suitable for flying. The wing tips got glued on.
The dihedral is set to 1.25" at each tip and the left and right wings glued to the center section. After that dried the 1/16" stringers are added to the top leading edges. The tips, leading edge and trailing edge are rough sanded close the final shapes. Looking like a wing!
At this point the ailerons are cut free and sanded. Holes are cut in the ribs for the servo cables.
Now there's this vacuum formed "Wheel Fairing" that has to be cut out and fit to the front of the wing center section.
Looking at the photo on the kit box I have a good idea of how the fairing has to be trimmed to fit.
Jon
The dihedral is set to 1.25" at each tip and the left and right wings glued to the center section. After that dried the 1/16" stringers are added to the top leading edges. The tips, leading edge and trailing edge are rough sanded close the final shapes. Looking like a wing!
At this point the ailerons are cut free and sanded. Holes are cut in the ribs for the servo cables.
Now there's this vacuum formed "Wheel Fairing" that has to be cut out and fit to the front of the wing center section.
Looking at the photo on the kit box I have a good idea of how the fairing has to be trimmed to fit.
Jon
TooJung2Die
Master member
The wheel fairing is trimmed to fit.
Bottom side. The fairing is not glued in yet. It'll be easier to cover the wing without the fairing. I also want to make sure it fits to the fuselage before fixing it in place.
Jon
Bottom side. The fairing is not glued in yet. It'll be easier to cover the wing without the fairing. I also want to make sure it fits to the fuselage before fixing it in place.
Jon
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telnar1236
Elite member
In terms of electronics, if you have a 30" wingspan and build quite light, the basic 2s UMX bricks should work, but you'll want the UMX programming dongle along with the board. If you're going that route you can even program AS3X right into the model, though I tend to just turn it off entirely since it's simpler. It will be very light though, and maybe underpowered for more complex maneuvers. Like TooJung2Die said, the plane is bigger than was suggested. You could probably go over 300g with no issues, but the recommendation of 200g seems like a better target.
TooJung2Die
Master member
I'm limited to AFHDS protocol receivers since my transmitter is FlySky. It's not an issue since these tiny FS2A 4ch receivers came out and ESC's are getting smaller all the time too. The heaviest components will be the motor and battery. If I plan it right no added ballast will be required.
Jon
Jon
telnar1236
Elite member
Makes sense. That's a pretty tiny receiver. Good luck with your build. It looks great so far.
GliderFlyer
Elite member
Whoa! I think I want one. How's the range? Do you know if it is compatible with the FS-T6, or is it intended for the newer FS-i6's?
TooJung2Die
Master member
Range is great for line of sight flying. I think they claim 300 meters. I wouldn't trust it in a glider at 2000 feet. 😲 It uses AFHDS-2A so you need a FS-i6 or newer transmitter. It doesn't have telemetry like the AFHDS-2A FlySky receivers but who needs it?
GliderFlyer
Elite member
Well dang it, I have the FS-T6. I have always wanted to build a micro airplane for indoors, but I'm not willing to pay $60 for a umx brick.
TooJung2Die
Master member
You still can. Use the WLToys F949 receiver brick. It uses the older FlySky AFHDS protocol. It has 4 channels with two servos and an onboard brushed motor ESC. They're cheap, less than $20 on Banggood. That's what I used for the Arena Rat and Guillow's Lancer.
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TooJung2Die
Master member
Keel is pinned down and the bulkheads are beginning to go into place. I'm using a small right-angle to keep them as perfectly square as possible.
The rest of the bulkheads are glued. The arrow is pointing to the bulkhead that was originally solid. I stacked the two sides and sanded out the inside to lighten it. Then the longerons were glued in being careful to keep the bulkheads square to the table.
Jon
The rest of the bulkheads are glued. The arrow is pointing to the bulkhead that was originally solid. I stacked the two sides and sanded out the inside to lighten it. Then the longerons were glued in being careful to keep the bulkheads square to the table.
Jon
Willy Nillies
Elite member
Very cool build! Wish I had the time to build one like this! 
Sincerely,
Doug
Sincerely,
Doug
TooJung2Die
Master member
At the rate you are coming out with new kits I understand and empathize. You will have a half dozen kits completed by the time this one gets its maiden flight! I built the Willy Nillies Eaglet 250 and Jr. Skylark 250. They were very quick and easy to build and they fly great (and won't be the last). 😎👍 I have time so I wanted something a bit more challenging this winter.Very cool build! Wish I had the time to build one like this!
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TooJung2Die
Master member
It always amazes me how much you can bend balsa. This fuselage wing support has to be twisted drastically to mate up with the bulkhead.
After soaking the piece in glass cleaner with ammonia for about an hour it twisted easily and smoothly without cracking.
I need to mention how amazing the laser cuts are in this Herr kit. The cuts are extremely thin and there is remarkably very little scorching of the wood.
Jon
After soaking the piece in glass cleaner with ammonia for about an hour it twisted easily and smoothly without cracking.
I need to mention how amazing the laser cuts are in this Herr kit. The cuts are extremely thin and there is remarkably very little scorching of the wood.
Jon
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