Goldberg Eagle 2 Rescue & Re-Build

[Joker 53150]

Well, other than firing the engine for the first time and getting the plane in the air, this project is about done. I still want to get a pinstripe added around the rear transparent windows and triple rates need to be programmed into the transmitter, but hearing it run will be first. Overall, I like it. The 9cc gas engine should have plenty of power for a plane with this much wing, even though it's a bit heavier than it was designed for due to dual batteries, switch hardware, and a heavier engine.

Since I stole the colors from my Funtana 90 I felt it was only appropriate to also steal the patterns. The bottom of the wing has yellow stripes and the top has colors of the flag. The Funtana 90 has Italian colors and here I went with good 'ol USA red/white/blue. Quite fitting for the Eagle 2.

With the work bench cleaned off again I'm contemplating my next project... This 1/6 scale Cessna 182 by Pica is a contender. Build quality is decent, although the covering is a bit aged and at the very least needs a re-shrinking. The wing struts are missing, there are no electronics or engine, either. The project would be fairly quick, but expensive (mostly due to needing an engine, probably around 17cc). Eventually it also needs a new cowl as there is a giant hole in the right side from a previous engine install.

The colors don't do much for me and I'd love to re-cover it, but for now would probably just make it flyable before doing an eventual re-cover. The project cost will probably keep this one on the back-burner.

Also on the short list for work is the Funtana 90. One wing has been completely re-built and the other needs minimal work before new covering goes on. The fuselage needs attention, the tail needs substantial work, and it would also require a new engine, electronics, and cowl. Like the Pica Cessna, it will get pricey if I take it as far as completion so this one may be by-passed for now. I could also just do the re-build and not do the engine at this time.

The Senior Telemaster below the Funtana would certainly make the short list if it had a 2-piece wing or if I had a vehicle big enough to carry the wing. This plane is very solid and only needs minor repairs before re-covering it, but it'll have to wait.

Here's one that certainly makes the cut, a Stinson Reliant built from a Royal kit, giant scale with an 84" wingspan. This one is strange, as it was most likely built for static display. The build quality is quite good, but all hinged surfaces were glued so there is no movement. There are no opening doors or hatches to access the interior, either. The original covering was in rough shape so I started removing it. There is a lot of pigment left to remove, yay....

On the good side, I've got a 20cc Zenoah gas engine, pilot, servos, nav light set, and more already set aside for this project so the overall cost will be much lower.

Another one which could go next is the Rascal 110 I picked up recently. It's an older ARF, but was never finished or flown. It came with a glow engine and all servos installed, but I pulled the glow engine to replace it with a 26cc gas engine that's been sitting and waiting for a project. Some engine testing will be required as I don't know the history on it and don't want to get all the work done just to find it's no good.

For now I'll just kick ideas around and see what is calling out loudest for attention. Maybe it'll be one of a couple dozen other planes.

 

[TooJung2Die]

Huge problems. I don't envy you. The Stinson and the Rascal are the most interesting IMO. I've seen a big Rascal fly a couple of times. Spectacular looking and flying airplane.

 

[Joker 53150]

Huge problems. I don't envy you. The Stinson and the Rascal are the most interesting IMO. I've seen a big Rascal fly a couple of times. Spectacular looking and flying airplane.

I agree on them being most interesting, as well as they're the least expensive for me to finish. However, there may be a new leader in the clubhouse, details on another thread in a few minutes.

 

[Joker 53150]

IT LIVES!

The NGH 9cc engine has a mixed reputation. It appears that earlier versions had problems, but when NGH switched to a new Walbro carb it made a huge difference. I mixed up some gas, probably a little richer than the 20:1 recommended, and put about 4 ounces into the tank. With the throttle advanced, the ignition turned off, and a finger over the carb it pulled gas quickly to the engine. So far, so good! I turned the ignition on, moved throttle to about 50%, and hit it with the starter for less than 2 seconds and it fired right up!

I need to make some changes to the throttle end-stop as anything less than about 40% throttle and it'd idle too low and die. Looking down the carb that doesn't surprise me, as the barrel barely opens until ignition is advanced quite a bit.

So now that it works, I'll have to do some programming changes, properly secure the wiring, get the receiver antennas routed well, etc. If weather is good next weekend it'll be sent up for a maiden!

Here's the video of the first run. Absolutely no tuning was done, and I won't touch the settings (other than throttle) until I get some fresh gas run through it to break it in.

 

[Joker 53150]

This NGH engine uses a fairly heavy mix of Gas and Oil, a 20:1 ratio (I use synthetic oil in all of my gassers). My other engines are 35:1, although I'm going to try moving my Zenoah 23cc from 35:1 to 50:1. When they all used the same mix it was fairly simple to just take a gas can and mix up 1/2 gallon, which was way more than I'd go through during a day of flight. Now I'll be dealing with 3 different ratios, but don't want to keep 3 gas cans. My solution is fairly simple, mix up smaller batches!

People have been using Fiji water bottles as gas tanks for years. They're good quality, thick plastic, and have a big cap. Some companies even mill aluminum caps to replace the plastic one, but the plastic will be fine for my needs. 1 gallon is 132 oz, so 1/4 gallon is 32 oz. The Fiji bottle I used is a 1L size, which is almost 34 oz, so there is room for 1/4 gallon of gas plus a couple oz of oil. At 20:1, 1/4 gallon of gas needs 1.6 oz of oil (47cc), which will be way more fuel than I can use during a day of flight with this little engine.

To make sure the ratio is correct I used my Ratio-Rite measuring cup to measure out 16 oz of fresh gas which was transferred into the Fiji bottle. Then I measured the 1.6 oz of oil and added that to the Fiji bottle. Last I measured the remaining 16 oz of gas which also rinsed the oil residue out of the mixing cup. It's a little bit of work, but it's accurate. For the bigger engines I'll start with bigger Fiji bottles so I don't run out.

There are plenty of ways to get the gas from the bottle into the plane, but here again I'm trying something new (to me). I have a couple filler plugs which thread on to a hole drilled into the bottle cap. A little plug screws into the top to seal it nicely and a Tygon gas line is added inside along with a clunk. I purposely cut the gas line slightly short to keep the clunk off the bottom so it doesn't suck up any debris or water that gets in. The label maker was used to make sure I don't forget what goes in the bottle!

 

[rockyboy]

Very neatly organized! My OCD approves

 

[Joker 53150]

More run-time was needed to get the engine broken in before the maiden. Weather looks bad the rest of the weekend, so I guess that'll be pushed back a week. The engine was fired up yesterday after work and I started to have problems with the tune. The throttle would advance nicely, but then the engine would start to lose power, bog, and die. After playing with the settings a bit I noticed that the low needle kept rotating clockwise and closing, which would explain the tuning problems. For some reason it just wouldn't hold a setting, so I added a tiny bit of LocTite and screwed it back in and adjusted to where I was having good success. If needed I'll still be able to adjust the needle, but so far it's now running MUCH better and holding a proper tune. About 10 oz of fuel has been run through it and I'd like to do another 10 before the maiden. When cold it starts easily and has a solid idle. The wing was installed and I did some practice taxi runs. It'll need a little trimming of the nose wheel & rudder, a quick project.

As posted on the wing bag thread, a bag was also made for the Eagle's wing.

For those who haven't tried tuning a gas (or glow) engine, here's a flow-chart showing one way to do it. It looks a bit confusing, but if you take it step by step the job is fairly easy and results in a good running engine.

 

[Bricks]

Once I have my Gas engines broken in I switch them up to 50-1 I use Amsoil Saber. Have a friend that has been running an Evolution 10cc on 75-1 all summer and not one issue, guessing he has at least 100 flights at this ratio. He did pull it down and looked at the crank and every thing looked great. He is talking about going to 100-1 next summer, not me I will stay at 50-1, I will say you can notice a better power curve using the less oil in these small engines as more fuel then oil runs thru these tiny jets.

 

[Joker 53150]

I’ve read about others doing that mix as well, although it scares me a bit too much to try. My 35:1 will go to 50:1, but from 20:1 to 50 or 100:1 is a major change.

 

[OliverW]

One of our NGH engines is doing some really funky things..

 

[Joker 53150]

One of our NGH engines is doing some really funky things..

What is yours doing? Other than the low needle issue this one seems to be running very well. I'm heat cycling it now, running it for 10-15 minutes and then letting it cool down completely. Other than getting some exhaust residue on the side of the plane I'm super happy. Final tuning will be done when I can get it in the air.

 

[Piotrsko]

Hey dumb question from the dark ages: since we didn't have locktite, we used springs on the assorted carb adjust screws. When did that change?

 

[OliverW]

What is yours doing? Other than the low needle issue this one seems to be running very well. I'm heat cycling it now, running it for 10-15 minutes and then letting it cool down completely. Other than getting some exhaust residue on the side of the plane I'm super happy. Final tuning will be done when I can get it in the air.

Mine just will act like pre-ignition then will sag and quit once in the air

 

[Joker 53150]

Hey dumb question from the dark ages: since we didn't have locktite, we used springs on the assorted carb adjust screws. When did that change?

I know what you're talking about and have that on all of my "normal" carbs on bigger engines. This one has a pumper style carb and evidentially doesn't use a spring. The low needle also doesn't screw all the way out of the carb housing as it does on other carbs. Well, maybe it will if I use more pressure on it, but I didn't want to risk it.

 

[Joker 53150]

Mine just will act like pre-ignition then will sag and quit once in the air

Is it an older NGH 9cc? I've heard those had problems. The sagging and quitting mine was doing was the low speed needle working it's way back in.

 

[OliverW]

Is it an older NGH 9cc? I've heard those had problems. The sagging and quitting mine was doing was the low speed needle working it's way back in.

No, it is the 35. But that does explain it some.

 

[Bricks]

Mine just will act like pre-ignition then will sag and quit once in the air

Normally that is to lean or not enough cooling going thru the engine. ( NORMALLY ) Make sure the cowling has at least three times the opening then where the air comes in, many cowlings have to put in air dams to force air thru the engine fins to keep it cool.

 

[OliverW]

Normally that is to lean or not enough cooling going thru the engine. ( NORMALLY ) Make sure the cowling has at least three times the opening then where the air comes in, many cowlings have to put in air dams to force air thru the engine fins to keep it cool.

My dad is like an engine guru, and he got the other one broken in and running perfect, this one just is doing things that we have never seen an engine do

 

[Bricks]

Is this a rear carb or front? If rear carb check the reed valves as there have been a few guys having problems and found the reed block was not flat so the reeds were not sealing properly. Some glass and sandpaper took care of there problem. Just a shot in the dark.

To eleiminate other problems I would switch out carbs from the good running engine and see if it changes the problem

 

[Bricks]

Did some more digging on this problem pull the carb and check to make sure the vacuum hole to run the fuel pump line up. There was a manufactures defect, the pump was not getting enough vacuum check gasket under carb.