jfaleo1
Junior Member
Well I guess it all depends on if I can spend the 2.5 hours each way and still do the other stuff I need to.
White Diamond revealed! - single sheet DTFB flier
- Thread starter JGplanes
- Start date
Well I guess it all depends on if I can spend the 2.5 hours each way and still do the other stuff I need to.
jfaleo1
Junior Member
Well I need to solder the connectors on the new 20A ESC and the Black Diamond is ready to test. After that I will see if I can find a way to take alone one of them to Columbus with me. If I can maybe I will try to go to FliteFest, but I am really no sure I can make it work.
Jeff
Jeff
jfaleo1
Junior Member
ESC soldered and connected. Need to test a few things and maybe try it out this weekend. It will be the last time I use the black DTFB though unless they have improved it, the paper pealed off way to easily and I am sure I will have to make another due to this coming apart at some point, especially at the hinge lines.
JGplanes
Active member
I had the same problem with black DTFB. Even the new white DTFB seems to peel a lot for me. I would highly recommend FT foam if you can get your hands on it. I still have a small stockpile of the original white DTFB, but I always put a piece of tape on the leading edge to keep it from peeling anyway.
Also, make sure you have a way to ID direction. I've made a few really slender black planes, and they are usually very difficult to tell where they're headed once airborne. That being said, I'd love to see a "black diamond" with either foil or vanta black skin, but the only way to fly it would be via FPV. Of course if it were a real "black jet", it would be covered in carbon nanotubes.
jfaleo1
Junior Member
Well I have a clear Saturday during my trip. Soooo... I am going to try to make it to Flitefest on Saturday. It will be a 2.5 hour drive and I still need to get my act together getting an airplane/transmitter/charger and batteries there and back but it is doable I think. I have two weeks to prepare so should be able to make it. The only planes I have small enough to go right now are the white and black diamonds. I may bring an extra one partially cut out just in case I need to have a spare Plus who knows what I will bring home with me. Hope to see a few of the folks from the Forum there. Even if I don't get an plane there I will probably go as a spectator.
Almost forgot Black is ready to go.
Plus who knows what I will bring home with me. Hope to see a few of the folks from the Forum there. Even if I don't get an plane there I will probably go as a spectator.Almost forgot Black is ready to go.
jfaleo1
Junior Member
Well I took out the modified black diamond last night and wow did it fly BAD. What I gained in directional stability was overwhelmed by the terrible roll stability and its tendency to drastically change pitch with throttle. I did it together a stock (almost) white diamond with an 1806 and 3 blade prop. It flew fine and I am going to get a new white diamond made with the EDF and other electronics from black. See you Saturday.
Vimana89
Legendary member
I had the same problem with black DTFB. Even the new white DTFB seems to peel a lot for me. I would highly recommend FT foam if you can get your hands on it. I still have a small stockpile of the original white DTFB, but I always put a piece of tape on the leading edge to keep it from peeling anyway.
Also, make sure you have a way to ID direction. I've made a few really slender black planes, and they are usually very difficult to tell where they're headed once airborne. That being said, I'd love to see a "black diamond" with either foil or vanta black skin, but the only way to fly it would be via FPV. Of course if it were a real "black jet", it would be covered in carbon nanotubes.
Slender, black planes, you say? 😉 Yeah, the most important part is telling the bottom of your plane from the top to see if you are inverted. A simple use of color contrast works wonders, even just black and white.Your heading and attitude otherwise can pretty much be determined looking at the profile, but contrast can help there too if you are having visibility issues.
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L Edge
Master member
It would be very interesting if you tried the concept of the "udder rudder". Mount a third servo in front of the prop and add a rudder in front of the airflow. Will control the yaw and add a high value to the yaw acrobatics. Go ahead and try it.
https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/udder-rudder.58401/
If not, could you send me a copy of your plans so I could try it?
Mind if I try a version using a 64 edf? Should adapt easy since I designed the X-47B without any vert stabs.
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JGplanes
Active member
I'm not sure if this is a plane you want to have yaw. It's inherently unstable to begin with, and I think much customization other than scale is going to add weird flight characteristics rather than reduce them.
I would love to see any EDF versions of it. I got to see jfaleo1's fly in person today, and it looked great! I want to build one myself also.
jfaleo1
Junior Member
It flys well as an EDF and I have played with them a bit now original base design just replacing prop with EDF is still best so far. Next one will be a 64 or 70mm version with some cosmetic mods to make it a more of a sci-fi spaceship, haven't decided if it will be a cruiser of a fighter but it should be fun. may take a bit in queue but it is simple enough and I may still get it out of one sheet.
L Edge
Master member
L Edge
Master member
So was my X-47 B(inherently unstable) until I put the TV on it to give it anti-yaw problems and make it very stable in the flight envelope. I did learn that it should be launched close to horizontal as the video shows that I designed years ago.
Will put one together of a larger size to see how it functions. Need to finish up automating a F-22 leading edge flaps with rear edge flaps first.
L Edge
Master member
Here is some more info on my "udder rudder"
I designed a plane where it is in the shape of a lifting body where there wasn't any rudder, just some vertical stabs. It is a very sensentive plane around the pitch axis(lifting body) and poor in the turns. Problem was- needed yaw.
Designed the udder rudder and now it is very stable. Being of the old days of when you had 1 channel, I played the game of taking off my hand of the right controls and using left hand only, were I could fly the plane around. Looking at the pic, the plane was a lifting body so by adding power for speed, lift was either added or subtracted which controlled the nose going up or down. By using the udder rudder, I was able to make a flat turn either left or right with the use of only the left hand. Shows it works. Fast or slow, the rudder will function and the loss of thrust is miminal.
I have used the udder rudder in a second plane(called slow-mo) controlling yaw at high angles of attack for STOL takeoffs and landings. All I am saying is if you add one,it might improve your flight environment. Try it privately and let me know.
I designed a plane where it is in the shape of a lifting body where there wasn't any rudder, just some vertical stabs. It is a very sensentive plane around the pitch axis(lifting body) and poor in the turns. Problem was- needed yaw.
Designed the udder rudder and now it is very stable. Being of the old days of when you had 1 channel, I played the game of taking off my hand of the right controls and using left hand only, were I could fly the plane around. Looking at the pic, the plane was a lifting body so by adding power for speed, lift was either added or subtracted which controlled the nose going up or down. By using the udder rudder, I was able to make a flat turn either left or right with the use of only the left hand. Shows it works. Fast or slow, the rudder will function and the loss of thrust is miminal.
I have used the udder rudder in a second plane(called slow-mo) controlling yaw at high angles of attack for STOL takeoffs and landings. All I am saying is if you add one,it might improve your flight environment. Try it privately and let me know.
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