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XF VIPER - Foamboard F-16 EDF

kilroy07

Well-known member
Do you cut with the paper on or off?

I am having difficulty because i can cut through the foam just fine but i can't find the right mix of speed and power for cutting 50% through.
We’re you able to get the laser to just mark the Foamboard? I wondered with the power of that laser you may not be able to dial it down enough (Co2 lasers need to reach a certain point to actually “fire” and create the beam. Up to that point they just fluoresce and glow.
 
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@Mid7night

I have a few questions. I live at 7,500Ft above sea level so getting off the ground here can be a bit tricky. I have had one EDF before, it was the https://www.motionrc.com/collection...jolley-roger-64mm-edf-jet-pnp#description-tab.
Hand launching this was a pain and caused a crash once. I'm guessing altitude had a little bit to do with it. What altitude do you live at? Do you think the F-16 Viper will be able to hand launch easier? Also, what EDF are you using? Thank you I know that was a lot of questions.
I'm at a little over 6,000 ft and know what you mean, my planes need a little more power/prop than most planes discussed on most forums. I use the recommend 70mm EDF from Grayson Hobbies for the FT Viggen and it does pretty good on a decent launch, meaning you have to be sure you give it a decent throw at the right angle ... it still dips a little but easily handled.
 
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Ok thank you a really appreciate it. I am using the EDF from AliceExpress previously mentioned on this thread so hopefully it doesn't end up like this:

1537812984860.png

This is what happened with my first EDF on launch as it didn't have enough airspeed although it was the hardest throw i had+100% throttle.
 
Picking up the printed plans today and will be starting the cut out this weekend. A couple questions .... I live above 6,000 ft. elevation and am always weight concious on all my scratch builds because of it. My FT Viggen does OK with the recommended 70mm EDF but is marginal on launch. This F-16 appears to have much more foamboard in it over the Viggen so I'm looking at cutting weight where I can. 80% of my scratch builds is with depron, only my FT planes are made with the heavier foamboard. In an attempt to shave some weight from this project, is there any reason(s) why I can't remove the paper on the inside of most pieces? Second question ... just having elevons, can the F-16 do rolls at a decent rate or do you need to have it a pretty high level and going fairly fast to safely complete a roll? Has anyone installed ailerons on this plane and what was their expierence?
Thanks for any input.
 
I've heard of one guy who did ailerons and it worked very well. I've only ever built mine with elevons, and I've built and flown four so far. The latest one I deliberately used longer servo arms and shorter control-surface horns to maximize potential surface deflection ... and it worked INSANELY well. It can roll MUCH faster than my initial builds did - even at moderate airspeed - and it will pull hairpin turns even at full throttle without blinking.
 
Excellent input, that's what I was hoping for. Since I'm trying to keep the weight to a minimum, the adding of ailerons would add some weight so I'll go with just elevons. What's your thoughts on removing the inside paper on the pieces that have an inside-outside to it (vs. top-bottom like the elevons, verticle stablizer, etc)?
 
Excellent input, that's what I was hoping for. Since I'm trying to keep the weight to a minimum, the adding of ailerons would add some weight so I'll go with just elevons. What's your thoughts on removing the inside paper on the pieces that have an inside-outside to it (vs. top-bottom like the elevons, verticle stablizer, etc)?
Removing the inside paper should be fine for most of the fuselage pieces and horizontal stab. I wouldn't remove the paper from the inside of the wing, for strength. The vertical tail is one-sided, but the base-piece is not, so you could remove the paper there.

I might suggest leaving the inner-paper on the chin inlet portion under the forward fuselage, because that's what the airplane lands on. Please share your results, I'm curious what your weight savings are and how the final build turns out!
 
Removing the inside paper should be fine for most of the fuselage pieces and horizontal stab. I wouldn't remove the paper from the inside of the wing, for strength. The vertical tail is one-sided, but the base-piece is not, so you could remove the paper there.

I might suggest leaving the inner-paper on the chin inlet portion under the forward fuselage, because that's what the airplane lands on. Please share your results, I'm curious what your weight savings are and how the final build turns out!
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Will do and thanks for the input.
 
Yesterday the maiden flight took place, even with a 64mm EDF it flew amazing and it really looks cool !!!
Thank you Ben for this great design.

I designed a 3D printed canopy if somebody is interested I can upload it to Thingiverse.
 

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rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
Yesterday the maiden flight took place, even with a 64mm EDF it flew amazing and it really looks cool !!!
Thank you Ben for this great design.

I designed a 3D printed canopy if somebody is interested I can upload it to Thingiverse.
Congrats! Great looking build! Please do share the canopy - the resources section here on the forums is a great place to put these files too - easier for folks here to find it that way :D
 
Does anyone know how i could put a smoke system in this plane? I am going to paint it like the thunderbirds (once i build it) and was hoping to be able to have an aerobatic smoke system to turn on and off.
 
Does anyone know how i could put a smoke system in this plane? I am going to paint it like the thunderbirds (once i build it) and was hoping to be able to have an aerobatic smoke system to turn on and off.
We have had some off-forum discussion on that very topic... we tried using chalk dust but it didn’t last long enough, and I tried Hobbyking “smoke cartridges” but they weren’t reliable. I’ve got other ideas, but it’ll have to wait til I get back from vacation. 😜
 

JTarmstr

Well-known member
We have had some off-forum discussion on that very topic... we tried using chalk dust but it didn’t last long enough, and I tried Hobbyking “smoke cartridges” but they weren’t reliable. I’ve got other ideas, but it’ll have to wait til I get back from vacation. 😜
Maybe a Petersripol style smoke trail setup? he did some stuff like that with rotor riot, it was pretty cool.
 
One thing I did do that worked out pretty good was to add two "stress lines" (50% cuts) on the fuselage part right under the canopy (that "tricky" part....) seemed to smooth the transition from nose to intake rather nicely (even for me!)

Ben, you might want to try this out and add to Ver.1.1
(there was also an additional line on the top of this piece, possibility for wrap around, but it's missing from other side?)

Here's some photos to show what I mean;
View attachment 114418
View attachment 114419
Kilroy, about to start cutting out my pieces and wanting to add your two stress lines. I see 3 lines in your pic that isn't on the plans; 1 across about 1.5 " below the "V" on the center section and the 2 stress lines at 45 degrees coming off the 1st stress line mentioned. Is this correct?
Thanks
 
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SlingShot

Maneuvering With Purpose
Yes, we also looked at COTS solutions like that one, however we were trying to come up with something that didn’t cost hundreds of dollars.
Yup. Expensive. It seems to me you have to either burn something or have a reaction...or both.

The cheapest safe way to have good smoke would probably be with regular smoke bombs or smoke flares. Obviously, there would be an open flame element.

Coming up with something clever that doesn't produce wimpy smoke could be tough.