XF VIPER - Foamboard F-16 EDF

[IcedStorm777]

The helix will be your best choice.
Looks like it has a 24x18" working area (approximately 610x460mm) so, you are probably going to have to make your own cut files.
Your going to have to become comfortable with a CAD program of some sort to take the "pieces" and rearrange to fit the Helix's working area.

"Cutting" verses "Etching" on lasers is a function of power/speed. I cut my foam in two passes to help minimize the cut back because the heat of the laser will melt the foam a bit and it will form a cupped area at the cut line. You are just going to have to play with those numbers until you find ones that work (or maybe someone here has experience with Epilog equipment.)

There's at least one other thread talking about laser cutters, so I don't want to hijack this one any more.

Ok thanks for your help i'll tell you how\if the build works!

 

[Mid7night]

I really appreciate the support!

I echo Chuppster's sentiment; it's not an easy build, but it is SURPRISINGLY easy to fly - it even surprised me! You can go crazy with it, but you don't have to. Don't be shy with your questions (I don't think you have a problem there ) and we'll help you along as best we can.

 

[IcedStorm777]

I echo Chuppster's sentiment; it's not an easy build, but it is SURPRISINGLY easy to fly - it even surprised me! You can go crazy with it, but you don't have to. Don't be shy with your questions (I don't think you have a problem there ) and we'll help you along as best we can.

I really appreciate it!

 

[Chuppster]

Also, im putting a turnigy 2226-3000kv brushless outrunner into a 70mm 12 blade fan unit. do you think that will be enough power? I have a 3s 3200mah battery. do you think i would need a bigger battery and if so what would you reccommend?

The outrunner:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-2226-3000-70mm-edf-outrunner.html

The EDF unit:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/blade-high-performance-70mm-edf-12-blades-ducted-fan-unit.html

The battery:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/3200mah-3s-111v-30c-lipo-battery--12awg--ec3-p-kxsb0017

Sorry, i'm a bit clueless about EDF's

I used that outrunner on that EDF and it draws too much current. I recommend a 6-blade EDF for that motor, I'm running it in my A-4.

 

[IcedStorm777]

Would something like this work?

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/edf-ducted-fan-unit-6blade-2-75inch-70mm.html

 

[Mid7night]

Yeah that could work. You just need to find the right motor.

It won't have the sound of the 12-blade, but the price is nice!

 

[Chuppster]

Would something like this work?

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/edf-ducted-fan-unit-6blade-2-75inch-70mm.html

That's the exact EDF I have with that motor. Should power the F-16 just fine.
However, I'm rather fond of this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/FMS...KV2750-Motor-For-RC-Airplane/32718176534.html
It is more expensive, and I totally get that, but 1kw is nice!

 

[IcedStorm777]

That's the exact EDF I have with that motor. Should power the F-16 just fine.
However, I'm rather fond of this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/FMS...KV2750-Motor-For-RC-Airplane/32718176534.html
It is more expensive, and I totally get that, but 1kw is nice!

Cool, thank you! I'm hoping to go out to my local laser cutter space today. I'm hoping someone can help me shift the parts around so that they will fit on a smaller cutting area. Fingers crossed!

 

[SlingShot]

That's the exact EDF I have with that motor. Should power the F-16 just fine.
However, I'm rather fond of this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/FMS...KV2750-Motor-For-RC-Airplane/32718176534.html
It is more expensive, and I totally get that, but 1kw is nice!

That fan from Aliexpress is considerably cheaper than the same ones from Banggood. Let us know how they work out please!

 

[IcedStorm777]

In the plans, what is the difference between the Blue lines, the red lines, and the black lines? I know it is the same as flitetest but as the only plane i have scratch built was off of RCgroups, I don't know what the markings mean...

 

[Chuppster]

In the plans, what is the difference between the Blue lines, the red lines, and the black lines? I know it is the same as flitetest but as the only plane i have scratch built was off of RCgroups, I don't know what the markings mean...

Blue and red mean do a score cut. The difference is the red lines usually infer that you need to remove the foam while the blue lines usually indicate a crease. The black lines are cut clear through.

That fan from Aliexpress is considerably cheaper than the same ones from Banggood. Let us know how they work out please!

It works great! Goes like stink.

 

[IcedStorm777]

Blue and red mean do a score cut. The difference is the red lines usually infer that you need to remove the foam while the blue lines usually indicate a crease. The black lines are cut clear through.


It works great! Goes like stink.

Oh ok thanks for clearing that up!

 

[AkimboGlueGuns]

Blue and red mean do a score cut. The difference is the red lines usually infer that you need to remove the foam while the blue lines usually indicate a crease. The black lines are cut clear through.

A blue line does NOT mean cut through. The blue line on FT plans is a reference line and should be marked on the foam piece you are working with, but it should not be cut through.

 

[Chuppster]

A blue line does NOT mean cut through. The blue line on FT plans is a reference line and should be marked on the foam piece you are working with, but it should not be cut through.

Hmm. I scored (50%) all of the blue lines on this design and it worked well. I do sometimes just use my fingernail for blue lines, if they are for placement reference. But I thought that's what the green lines were for.

 

[IcedStorm777]

@Mid7night

I want to put retracts on the F-16. I want them to be kind of like the retracts that you put on the F-4 Phantom. How did you do those? can you put a link to the servoes you used?

 

[Mid7night]

Hmm. I scored (50%) all of the blue lines on this design and it worked well. I do sometimes just use my fingernail for blue lines, if they are for placement reference. But I thought that's what the green lines were for.

I try to keep my line colors in line with the FT plans, but Dan is much better at organizing that than me. For my plans, in general:

Black Lines: Cut 100% thru
Red Lines: Cut thru 1-layer of paper and most of the foam, NOT all the way thru. Usually a place where either a single or double-bevel will be cut, OR a foam-channel will be removed.
Blue Lines: Score cut thru paper, maybe 50% of the foam. Usually denotes where a crease-fold will be. Depending on the severity of the fold angle, you may need a deeper score to bend.
Green Lines: Reference alignment markings like centerlines, CG marks and layout guides.
Magenta Lines: Usually reference text to identify parts.

 

[Mid7night]

@Mid7night

I want to put retracts on the F-16. I want them to be kind of like the retracts that you put on the F-4 Phantom. How did you do those? can you put a link to the servoes you used?

F-16 retracts are highly unique, they are not anything like what I used on the F-4. I would start by searching MotionRC or Hobbyking for retracts specifically labeled for F-16 use, as a start.

That said, you MIGHT be able to use more "standard" retract units, but you would have to modify the internal structure significantly to hold onto them.

 

[IcedStorm777]

F-16 retracts are highly unique, they are not anything like what I used on the F-4. I would start by searching MotionRC or Hobbyking for retracts specifically labeled for F-16 use, as a start.

That said, you MIGHT be able to use more "standard" retract units, but you would have to modify the internal structure significantly to hold onto them.

Ok thanks. What are "standard retract units?"

 

[Mid7night]

Ok thanks. What are "standard retract units?"

Something like this: https://www.motionrc.com/collection...oducts/flightlinerc-electronic-retract-type-a

 

[JTarmstr]

The torture has gone on to long, I am going to build one of those tomorrow. Do you have tiled plans?