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FT Spitfire Master Series

FT Spitfire Master Series 1.0

flitetest

Administrator
Admin
#1
flitetest submitted a new resource:

FT Spitfire Master Series - FT Spitfire Master Series Free Plans

FT P-47 Thunderbolt

Designed By: John Overstreet
Plans By: Dan Sponholz
View attachment 157916
Description:
The Master Series Spitfire is a classic warbird that provides as much satisfaction in building it as it does flying it! Utilizing Master Series build techniques and designed by John Overstreet, the build experience for this aircraft is absolutely remarkable. The scale presence of the Spitfire in the air is very rewarding...
Read more about this resource...
 

shadeyB

Legendary member
#2
In process of final assembly , lights in although I got the red and green the wrong way round.
awaiting Cpack radial and some more control horns before it’s stuck together and in the paint shop
excited for this one
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#5
IMG_20200703_175922.jpg
Made the master series FT Spitfire with coroplast (fluteboard) with your free plan thank you for that and have some doubts in CG help me out(if anyone reply with image of CG mark it's better for me Thank you.
 
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leaded50

Legendary member
#6
View attachment 173546 Made the master series FT Spitfire with coroplast (fluteboard) with your free plan thank you for that and have some doubts in CG help me out(if anyone reply with image of CG mark it's better for me Thank you.
interesenting idea of material. suppose hard to bend, and need cuts to shape?
Your question on CG i suppose because heavier material you get more tailweight. thats says need more weight in front of the plane. . FT writes : Center of Gravity: 2 Inches (50mm) back from the leading edge.

This resource is a nice feature to find the approx. CG : https://www.ecalc.ch/cgcalc.php
 
#7
interesenting idea of material. suppose hard to bend, and need cuts to shape?
Your question on CG i suppose because heavier material you get more tailweight. thats says need more weight in front of the plane. . FT writes : Center of Gravity: 2 Inches (50mm) back from the leading edge.

This resource is a nice feature to find the approx. CG : https://www.ecalc.ch/cgcalc.php
I feel risky to take off the plane because its so much work i did on coroplast its really hard and weighs more but durable and cheap so I'll be checking for the exact CG and fly off Thank you for your reply and soon I'll post the flying pics
 

shadeyB

Legendary member
#8
Pilot friend of mine would like to have one of these girls but only flys 3s 2200 batteries
Could you give me any suggestions on a power plant for him so that he’s good to go 👍
 

BoredGuy

Active member
#9
Pilot friend of mine would like to have one of these girls but only flys 3s 2200 batteries
Could you give me any suggestions on a power plant for him so that he’s good to go 👍
Maybe a dys 3548, they give out over 1.5 kg thrust on 3s 1045. Pretty heavy too, so the issues people are having with cg should be solved to some extent. Although the flight time maybe be short with that batt.
 
#11
hi
thanks for these plans! there are several different versions of these plans to download. Which version should I download if my printer uses A4 size paper? (I am UK based)
Thanks
Pea
 

mcmoyer

Active member
#15
what kind of weight are you all getting on your finished models. Mine's coming in around 620g without paint yet. I did a maiden flight yesterday and it felt like it was getting tossed around in a 5mph wind. My Bigfoot comes in around 1100g and doesn't have the same issues. Wondering how to "beef" it up a bit.
 

mcmoyer

Active member
#16
so this was my first Flite Test build. First plane I've constructed in 30+ years. It didn't turn out perfect, but I think it turned out pretty decent for the first try. I'm already wanting to do a 2nd build just to put into practice all the stuff I learned on this first build. I'd probably skip the velcro battery holder since it fell out after the first flight along and pulled all the paper off the back of the foam with it. I'd probably go with the battery box approach I've seen others do. I'd also skip the rubber band hatch system and go straight to magnets as well. I probably wouldn't leave it out in the sun to dry the paint faster (duh! I can't believe I actually did that). I think I'd want to construct it with a removable wing for easier transport. I think I'd leave off the poplar dowel on the leading edge that I've had to keep glueing countless times. I think I want to cut my own foam next time so that the edges are vertical instead of concave, I guess from the heat of the laser? I think I want to try the next build out with the white foam. I might even take more time to do a better paint job next time as well.

All in all, I really enjoyed this and I'm definitely looking forward to the next build.

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#19

CrshNBrn

Elite member
#20
so this was my first Flite Test build. First plane I've constructed in 30+ years. It didn't turn out perfect, but I think it turned out pretty decent for the first try. I'm already wanting to do a 2nd build just to put into practice all the stuff I learned on this first build. I'd probably skip the velcro battery holder since it fell out after the first flight along and pulled all the paper off the back of the foam with it. I'd probably go with the battery box approach I've seen others do. I'd also skip the rubber band hatch system and go straight to magnets as well. I probably wouldn't leave it out in the sun to dry the paint faster (duh! I can't believe I actually did that). I think I'd want to construct it with a removable wing for easier transport. I think I'd leave off the poplar dowel on the leading edge that I've had to keep glueing countless times. I think I want to cut my own foam next time so that the edges are vertical instead of concave, I guess from the heat of the laser? I think I want to try the next build out with the white foam. I might even take more time to do a better paint job next time as well.

All in all, I really enjoyed this and I'm definitely looking forward to the next build.

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Great job. Looks absolutely fantastic.