hybrid FB Pheonix Bixler

bracesport

Legendary member
I have made a new fuse for my Hybrid Pheonix Bixler Radian that I am planning to fully 3D print - the FB wing now needs some work to make it 1600mm and with the formers 3D printed with a foam wrap for the skin - similar to the wildthings wing but I will use a 5mm FB - of course it will be a V tail!

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Wildthing

Legendary member
I have made a new fuse for my Hybrid Pheonix Bixler Radian that I am planning to fully 3D print - the FB wing now needs some work to make it 1600mm and with the formers 3D printed with a foam wrap for the skin - similar to the wildthings wing but I will use a 5mm FB - of course it will be a V tail!

Awesome, that will be a cool project.
 

bracesport

Legendary member
some progress on the internal former development - winglets will be hollow 3D printed - wing formers are 1mm in wall section and each weighs in under 8gm + CF rods should total at under 100g per wing + FB covering and wingtips - I have made fewer formers but each former is 20mm wide (approx) to give me some glue surface for the FB skins.

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Wildthing

Legendary member
some progress on the internal former development - winglets will be hollow 3D printed - wing formers are 1mm in wall section and each weighs in under 8gm + CF rods should total at under 100g per wing + FB covering and wingtips - I have made fewer formers but each former is 20mm wide (approx) to give me some glue surface for the FB skins.

With the FB as a skin that should be plenty strong, looking good.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
This is a very exciting direction you're going here! I'd love to get a copy of the shape files for printing when you've got a working wing going - my Spinster DLG needs a new wing and this is a very neat way to build one! :)
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
I have made a new fuse for my Hybrid Pheonix Bixler Radian that I am planning to fully 3D print - the FB wing now needs some work to make it 1600mm and with the formers 3D printed with a foam wrap for the skin - similar to the wildthings wing but I will use a 5mm FB - of course it will be a V tail!

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@bracesport This looks so sexy... I would love to do FB version of the fuse... Hmmm.... I'll be back. My first try needs some work. in the fuse area.

Does anyone wish to cover how to setup switched for a Proper DLG launch? with the FT Simple Soarer. while throttle's on, it's down elevator, on glide is all down... there has to be a way switch or mix in. My transmitter abilities lack severely.
 

bracesport

Legendary member
@Wildthing - I did some more experiments with the 3D printer (and I needed to make a new battery tray for the brothers-in-law's smashed Pheonix) it definitely prints better at 1.0 wall thickness than the 1.2mm wall I previously printed - it is fused nicely between the walls so I will run with 1.0mm for the 3D printed fuse and wing formers!

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bracesport

Legendary member
the fuse is nearly sorted - my machine is limited to 215mm height so I have 200mm sections with joiners supported by the CF tube - the front CF tube is stepped down to give me space for the radio gear and battery - I will probably add one more support at the front for the front CF tube - I now need to look at the path for the servos and pushrods etc!

getting there!

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Wildthing

Legendary member
@Wildthing - I did some more experiments with the 3D printer (and I needed to make a new battery tray for the brothers-in-law's smashed Pheonix) it definitely prints better at 1.0 wall thickness than the 1.2mm wall I previously printed - it is fused nicely between the walls so I will run with 1.0mm for the 3D printed fuse and wing formers!
Try printing at .8 walls with 2 walls, seems to actually work really good with no gap between the 2
 

Wildthing

Legendary member
the fuse is nearly sorted - my machine is limited to 215mm height so I have 200mm sections with joiners supported by the CF tube - the front CF tube is stepped down to give me space for the radio gear and battery - I will probably add one more support at the front for the front CF tube - I now need to look at the path for the servos and pushrods etc!

getting there!
So the formers are separate from the skin? If so I would add an X in them to help stop any twisting. What is your plan for the skin, 2 half sections glued around the formers?

:unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure: Just picking your brain, looking for new ideas :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: