basslord1124
Master member
All right here's the video. Mine is a 3ch and I didn't have my high rates set up correctly so I overcontrolled (to fight back against the wind) and well that was it.
OUCH!All right here's the video.
OUCH!
No worries. It's landings like that one that makes you appreciate Flite Test airplanes. Some hot glue and tape and it's ready to fly again. In the worst cases you get to build another one even better! That's a treat!It's just a flesh wound.
No worries. It's landings like that one that makes you appreciate Flite Test airplanes. Some hot glue and tape and it's ready to fly again. In the worst cases you get to build another one even better! That's a treat!
Isn't it funny how with all the nice grass around you the airplane found the asphalt?
I built mine without any dihedral and an increase in wing incidence. Even without dihedral it has plenty of stability, (pendulum). It putts around at half throttle without any issues and lands very slow.
Aileron turns are simple as are rudder only turns you just need to be gentle on the controls when initiating the turn.
Been flying mine for around 6 months without any real issues, (except for the wing incidence which when too low caused it to fly like a bit of a dog).
Biggest killers of the Simple cub are poor builds, the wing incidence, and the old radio Loss of Signal!
Just my experience!
have fun!
Firstly I built the Simple cub to the plan except that I did not use any dihedral, (I built my wing flat), and I used large commercial wheels, (about 3 inch diameter). On test flying it I found that the cub behaved exactly as a lot of forum users complained. Less than stable, would not fly slowly, and tended to fall out of the sky and crash when slowing down for landing.Hi there,
Could you explain what you did with the wing incidence. I'm going to start building one in the next week or so and I want to make sure I get it right the first time around.
Thanks,
Ed
Simplest method of bring the CG further forward is to fit the landing gear, (on mine I used large 3 inch "tundra tires") and if more is needed add a spinner! I built mine out of much heavier FB and with the undercarriage alone it balanced perfectly at first check.
Where were the 8x4.5 props reccomended? Also, are you using the ft power pack? In the future when you buy props, I would recommend APC props. Mine have survived many nose dives, and that will save you money! These are the ones I recommend. https://store.flitetest.com/apc-9x4.5-thin-electric-propeller-apc09045e/p17928hay guys i broke all my 9/4.5 props that came in the kit and got replacements but the ones they recommended were 8/4.5 why the difference ?
Ya the 9/4.5 came with the power pack and the recommended is the 8/4.5 and i allredy did lol but i will know for next timeWhere were the 8x4.5 props reccomended? Also, are you using the ft power pack? In the future when you buy props, I would recommend APC props. Mine have survived many nose dives, and that will save you money! These are the ones I recommend. https://store.flitetest.com/apc-9x4.5-thin-electric-propeller-apc09045e/p17928
Don’t get the slow fly props as they break very easily.
I haven’t seen anyone do it. One great place to start is by taking a piece of paper and using it to get a close estimate of the size and shape of the piece you want to use. You might have to make a fixed motor mount, or you could blow up the plans to 115% and that would give you a little more room to make a curved nose.Has anyone tried giving the cub the "master series" treatment?
I've thought about trying some different ideas when I build my next one. I want to try a more realistic nose like on the commuter and close in the ends of the wing also. The master series spitfire technique at the wing tips should work pretty well but I'm not sure about how to give the nose that rounded shape and not have to completely revamp the power pod and how it's positioned.
It shouldn't add too much weight. My simple cub was pretty heavy and it flew just fine.I think I have an idea that just might work. Formers. One square right at the bottom of the window since that area is square and another one a bit further forward with the right shape then the last inch or two would be the strips like the spitfire nose. I would use a power pod sleeve as well for strength and maybe add another former further back too. This all may add too much weight though. We shall see.