Scout XL - Scratch Build

[Spitfire76]

I know I am a bit late to the game in building the Scout XL and I am still not sure that it will fit in my car but started the build anyway. As its a scratch build I used the plans that Sponz developed and kindly shared with the community for the FF2022 dawn patrol challenge. I then used the build video's that FT put together for their SBK and noticed that they had made quite a few changes.

* The front and rear sections of the fuselage are not in the same place. The FT version is much further forward.
* FT Fuse doublers are doubled
* FT Servo doublers are larger, similar to the FT Tutor’s ones
* There is a difference in the bottom front section. The FT one is not spilt at the same point and the cut out section at the front is a different size to take into account the double doublers
* FT power pod has double sides and so is not compatible with Sponz’s 3d printed one but could be adapted by removing part of the side doubles at the front to accommodate.
* FT Turtle desk is split into 3 sections instead of one.
* The top and bottom parts of the wings are joined on the FT version as they use the larger foam board
* On the FT version the front former is changed to accommodate the double doublers.

I am attempting to include these changes to my scratch build.

I am now having trouble to fit the power pod because of the double doublers. I can only assume that the SBK version has a narrower power pod and corresponding reduced firewall size.

 

[Yankee2003]

I know I am a bit late to the game in building the Scout XL and I am still not sure that it will fit in my car but started the build anyway. As its a scratch build I used the plans that Sponz developed and kindly shared with the community for the FF2022 dawn patrol challenge. I then used the build video's that FT put together for their SBK and noticed that they had made quite a few changes.

* The front and rear sections of the fuselage are not in the same place. The FT version is much further forward.
* FT Fuse doublers are doubled
* FT Servo doublers are larger, similar to the FT Tutor’s ones
* There is a difference in the bottom front section. The FT one is not spilt at the same point and the cut out section at the front is a different size to take into account the double doublers
* FT power pod has double sides and so is not compatible with Sponz’s 3d printed one but could be adapted by removing part of the side doubles at the front to accommodate.
* FT Turtle desk is split into 3 sections instead of one.
* The top and bottom parts of the wings are joined on the FT version as they use the larger foam board
* On the FT version the front former is changed to accommodate the double doublers.

I am attempting to include these changes to my scratch build.

I am now having trouble to fit the power pod because of the double doublers. I can only assume that the SBK version has a narrower power pod and corresponding reduced firewall size.

View attachment 230581

I built mine from the plans SPONZ put out early on before the SBK was available. Used the simple scout video as a guide and it turned out great. A big lumbering giant. Can’t wait to see how yours turns out.

 

[Spitfire76]

I built mine from the plans SPONZ put out early on before the SBK was available. Used the simple scout video as a guide and it turned out great. A big lumbering giant. Can’t wait to see how yours turns out.

I was about to do the same but then saw the build video's that Josh put together for the SBK and discovered the changes that he had made. He seems to have taken some of the techniques he used in the FT Tutor like doubling the fuselage doublers. As these add an extra 2 layers of FB to the inside at the front I've had to reduce the width of the power pod and made the corresponding size change to a 3d printed firewall. Since I've started this now I'll continue and document any future changes in this thread.

 

[Yankee2003]

I was about to do the same but then saw the build video's that Josh put together for the SBK and discovered the changes that he had made. He seems to have taken some of the techniques he used in the FT Tutor like doubling the fuselage doublers. As these add an extra 2 layers of FB to the inside at the front I've had to reduce the width of the power pod and made the corresponding size change to a 3d printed firewall. Since I've started this now I'll continue and document any future changes in this thread.

Sounds like a fun build. It will be interesting to see how it unfolds.

 

[Spitfire76]

Attached is a 3d printed firewall that will fit the narrower power pod. Also I did make the power pod with the sides doubled as per Josh's video.

 

[Yankee2003]

Attached is a 3d printed firewall that will fit the narrower power pod. Also I did make the power pod with the sides doubled as per Josh's video.

View attachment 230639

Just interested in if you are going to use the FT 2814 motor. I would be interested in your opinion of how it works out.

 

[Spitfire76]

Just interested in if you are going to use the FT 2814 motor. I would be interested in your opinion of how it works out.

I am planning on getting the FT power pack kit for the Scout XL but will wait until I've completed the airframe. Did you use a different motor than the FT 2814 ?.

 

[Yankee2003]

I am planning on getting the FT power pack kit for the Scout XL but will wait until I've completed the airframe. Did you use a different motor than the FT 2814 ?.

I did use a different motor. I just can’t remember which one I used. I believe it was an E-Flite motor I had that was salvaged from a previous wreck. 525 watts…ish if my memory serves. Vague answer and not much help, I know. I would probably have gone with the 2814 had it been suggested earlier in my build. Once the plans were available I had the airframe done that week. Sadly it did not survive FF 2022……but when the motto is ……”Bring the people you love and the planes you don’t”….it is to be expected.
I did go with two 2500 3s batteries in parallel, setting on edge. It needed that to balance and the flight time was exceeding my attention span. Ben Haber had shown it in his video and it worked out really well.
I remember that it did not have excessive power. I would rate it somewhere between trainer and sports flier power. Leaning heavily towards trainer power. But it was a joy to fly. It has a nice presence and looks awesome doing lazy figure eights low to the ground.
I might be talking myself into building another one. 🤔
Changing the subject slightly…..I do enjoy the way you are using this thread. Good detailed commentary with plenty of pictures of sub-assemblies. It helps us Learn from your build instead of pictures of mostly completed airframes.
Thank you for putting yourself out there so we can all learn from your experience.

 

[Spitfire76]

Completed the turtle decking. I did split it into 3 parts as per the SBK video. It helps to bevel the edges of all 3 parts so they fit somewhat flush to the top of the fuselage. I sanded the bevels as with the over lapped paper its easy to cut through it.

Starting to think about a color scheme and leaning toward the brown and gray that I used on my Bristol M1.

 

[Yankee2003]

Completed the turtle decking. I did split it into 3 parts as per the SBK video. It helps to bevel the edges of all 3 parts so they fit somewhat flush to the top of the fuselage. I sanded the bevels as with the over lapped paper its easy to cut through it.
View attachment 230682
Starting to think about a color scheme and leaning toward the brown and gray that I used on my Bristol M1.

Looks nice.
Let’s face it…the turtle decking is important to spend time on and get right.
So far so good.

 

[danskis]

I have this plastic canopy from a Spitfire kit that is almost exactly the same size as the spitfire SBK. I'd like to try to make a mold of it so I can make some copies. What would be the best way to make a mold? What materials would you suggest I use?

 

[FlyingTyger]

I have this plastic canopy from a Spitfire kit that is almost exactly the same size as the spitfire SBK. I'd like to try to make a mold of it so I can make some copies. What would be the best way to make a mold? What materials would you suggest I use?

View attachment 230684

What I did to make a plug from a formed canooy was to build a frame to support the canopy at the flange. Carve a block of foam to take up most of the space leaving 1/2" to the plastic. This doesn't need to be at all precise, it just limits the amount plaster needed. Then fill the open void with plaster of paris.

 

[Spitfire76]

Checking that the 3d printed pilot fits into the cockpit!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3048798



Here are some other 3d printed parts that I intend on using on this Scout XL build.

 

[Yankee2003]

Checking that the 3d printed pilot fits into the cockpit!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3048798

View attachment 230698

Here are some other 3d printed parts that I intend on using on this Scout XL build.

View attachment 230704

Lucky dog. 3D printers just seem too mysterious to me.

 

[Spitfire76]

Working on the tail feathers and noticed another difference with the SBK. The elevator bevel is on the side of the elevator in the SBK video but on the plans its on the horizontal stabilizer which is how mine was cut. On the other hand the bevel cut on the rudder side is the same on both. There is an additional part on Josh's video, a small doubler and so I've added that to this build.

 

[Yankee2003]

Working on the tail feathers and noticed another difference with the SBK. The elevator bevel is on the side of the elevator in the SBK video but on the plans its on the horizontal stabilizer which is how mine was cut. On the other hand the bevel cut on the rudder side is the same on both. There is an additional part on Josh's video, a small doubler and so I've added that to this build.

I always double bevel my control surfaces. I use packing tape on the top side to reinforce my hinges in addition to the hot glue smear.
It is overkill, but I like free and easy movement to keep the pressure off the servo. I use 200 grit sandpaper to smooth down the packing tape and prepare it to accept paint.
I am new to FT planes though. I have only built the Scout XL, FT Spitfire and the Bloody Baron. So my build methods could be a bit rudementray.

 

[Spitfire76]

I always double bevel my control surfaces. I use packing tape on the top side to reinforce my hinges in addition to the hot glue smear.
It is overkill, but I like free and easy movement to keep the pressure off the servo. I use 200 grit sandpaper to smooth down the packing tape and prepare it to accept paint.
I am new to FT planes though. I have only built the Scout XL, FT Spitfire and the Bloody Baron. So my build methods could be a bit rudementray.

When you say double bevel do you mean that you bevel both the control surface and the stabilizer/wing section ?.

 

[Yankee2003]

When you say double bevel do you mean that you bevel both the control surface and the stabilizer/wing section ?.

Yes.

 

[Spitfire76]

Turns out that I could not use the rear doubler on the bottom rudder as there was no room in the rear of the fuselage. The SBK must have a modified rear section to accommodate it.

 

[Spitfire76]

I'll need to bend some 1/8" music wire (K&S 507) for the landing gear so it was an excuse to get new tool.
https://www.micromark.com/Vise-Mounted-Wire-Bender
As we have a runway at our club I usually try to add some steerable gear to my FT planes so will be working on that over the next few days.