1/5 scale Gee Bee Model D (From foam to balsa)

[cyclone3350]

On to the lower bracing wires & done. Dismantled the main gear, cut out the attachment hardware, soldered all the appropriate pieces & have it all installed. Now it's on the motor installation, cutting the holes in the cowl & hopefully that should do it & start covering.

 

[Off-topic jes]

On to the lower bracing wires & done. Dismantled the main gear, cut out the attachment hardware, soldered all the appropriate pieces & have it all installed. Now it's on the motor installation, cutting the holes in the cowl & hopefully that should do it & start covering.

View attachment 223326 View attachment 223327 View attachment 223329

very nice!

 

[Baron VonHelton]

very nice!

Maybe TOO nice? I'm not so sure I'd fly it......I'd definitely enter it in a contest or 2 though, it's beautiful.

 

[Off-topic jes]

Maybe TOO nice? I'm not so sure I'd fly it......I'd definitely enter it in a contest or 2 though, it's beautiful.

Yea, are you sure you even built this? or did god drop it from heaven😂

 

[L Edge]

I have one suggestion for you. You are using a push/pull system for your rudder. Used that method in a competition pattern ship and it always need adjustment. Problem is wire is under tension and all you need is a temp change(model sit in 100 degree sun out at field and wire lengthens given you slop in the movement on the servo.(that could even lead to flutter). Try it when it is 40 degrees when the wire contracts( it can bind the servo). If your can still get the CG right, move the servo back and use the same method(ball joint) as the elevators.

One of my co-workers was Bob Granville and he was always a pleasure to talk to(quite the stories he told). He was one of the 2 instructors who taught me how to fly RC. Even my son had him when he learned.

 

[cyclone3350]

I have one suggestion for you. You are using a push/pull system for your rudder. Used that method in a competition pattern ship and it always need adjustment. Problem is wire is under tension and all you need is a temp change(model sit in 100 degree sun out at field and wire lengthens given you slop in the movement on the servo.(that could even lead to flutter). Try it when it is 40 degrees when the wire contracts( it can bind the servo). If your can still get the CG right, move the servo back and use the same method(ball joint) as the elevators.

One of my co-workers was Bob Granville and he was always a pleasure to talk to(quite the stories he told). He was one of the 2 instructors who taught me how to fly RC. Even my son had him when he learned.

Yes U R correct. I have several birds with it & do need to adjust them from time to time. I like the way they look & having fun experimenting with them. Now that I am finally back up to building again, I need to get back & finish this one. I'm sure Bob had quite of few of very interesting stories to tell.

 

[Flyingfitz]

Very impressive build!! Any more updates?
I built a smaller version a few years ago from a free plan in the much missed Scale Model magazine in the UK designed by a guy named Dave Stirchley. It was powered by the lovely OS 26FS and flew pretty well on its maiden until an overheating motor quit in a banked turn an she stalled in.
I liked it enough to consider a larger version and I am in the process of tracing the same plan as you into Draftsight and scaling it to 60 inch span. Looking around online for some reference photos had me come across this thread, which has been very informative, so thanks for sharing your build.

 

[cyclone3350]

Very impressive build!! Any more updates?
I built a smaller version a few years ago from a free plan in the much missed Scale Model magazine in the UK designed by a guy named Dave Stirchley. It was powered by the lovely OS 26FS and flew pretty well on its maiden until an overheating motor quit in a banked turn an she stalled in.
I liked it enough to consider a larger version and I am in the process of tracing the same plan as you into Draftsight and scaling it to 60 inch span. Looking around online for some reference photos had me come across this thread, which has been very informative, so thanks for sharing your build.

OMG! I luv those colors. I want to finish this one in fabric. So, unless I paint, it will most likely be either in blue on white or red on white. Unfortunately I have no updates as of yet. Moved in into a new place a year ago & I am just now starting on setting up the new workshop this week. Look for updates after the first of the year. Post your build when U get to it.

 

[FoamyDM]

The Gee Bee Ascender
View attachment 220828

Tony, I have been inspired by you and designed a FB built one.

Since my shop re-org, I have found some applicable power systems, and now I need some supports and controls I like for the canard... wait is this part of the background?

 

[FlyingTyger]

Tony, I have been inspired by you and designed a FB built one.
View attachment 242883


Since my shop re-org, I have found some applicable power systems, and now I need some supports and controls I like for the canard... wait is this part of the background?
View attachment 242882

YES!!!!

That part is a rudder. Pictures exist with and without it so the question is, was added after some initial test flights or removed. The fact that it isn't painted to match the rest of the plane, I'm guessing it was added presumably to aid in direction stability.

 

[FoamyDM]

This thread has amazing work. I look forward to seeing the finished model flying.

To not hijack this thread further, I have added the Q-1 Ascender thread.

 

[Saathi77]

I picture a group of early aircraft pioneers gathering around a fire drinking when some one said " Hey! U know that wrecked C-2 behind the barn, I have an idea on how to get back in the air" The true part is, that they did use a wrecked Aeronca C-2 to make it.

Imagine the dawn of aviation, a group of trailblazing aviators huddled around a fire, fueled by passion and innovation. In this captivating scene, one visionary declares, "Hey! You know that wrecked C-2 behind the barn?

 

[Sunnyle]