ACE All Star Biplane
- Thread starter rockyboy
- Start date
Let's glue in the brackets for the servo hatches...
And then turn our attention to the wing tips. Simplest to bandsaw them from a balsa block to close to the right profile...
And then cut them off at 45 degrees to match the old foam ones. I did have extra foam pieces cut off the first set of wings that I could have used here - but I emptied the trash can before I figured that out, so I get to make new ones.
And now's the part where I realize that bottom wing isn't the full length as the stock ACE wing - so I need to cut a rib bay off each end. Jeeze - I'm making all kinds of dumb mistakes on this build.
I'm not worried about cutting off the double rib end cap since I'm gluing on a solid wing tip next.
And then turn our attention to the wing tips. Simplest to bandsaw them from a balsa block to close to the right profile...
And then cut them off at 45 degrees to match the old foam ones. I did have extra foam pieces cut off the first set of wings that I could have used here - but I emptied the trash can before I figured that out, so I get to make new ones.
And now's the part where I realize that bottom wing isn't the full length as the stock ACE wing - so I need to cut a rib bay off each end. Jeeze - I'm making all kinds of dumb mistakes on this build.
I'm not worried about cutting off the double rib end cap since I'm gluing on a solid wing tip next.
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Let's get the lateral balance straightened out now - just a couple screws balances it out - they can be neatly hidden in the wing tips from the inside now - less easy once the covering is on. I'll want to do one more final balance check when it's all done, but that should be less out of balance by then and easier to deal with.
Time to get the ailerons prepared...
Let's do some hinges next! Going to use 3 small flat hinges per side, canopy glue, and the pinning method.
Time to get the ailerons prepared...
Let's do some hinges next! Going to use 3 small flat hinges per side, canopy glue, and the pinning method.
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TooJung2Die
Master member
Why do you suppose the shear webbing is shaped like that? What is the purpose of the cutouts? It can't be for weight; a few grams saved at most.
As for the little gaps that are left on the top and bottom of the shear webbing, maybe it's for getting a good glue bead? I thought that was a little odd too.
From a design and support perspective it was clever to come up a main rib R2 design that gets used all the way down the wing. They all have the slots for gussets and servo wires and the servo mounts, even though no single rib uses all 3 of those features at once. It didn't impact anything to have the slots in every one and it simplifies construction not needing to worry about 6 different rib blanks to get in the right order.
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Servo hatches and ailerons ready and sanded - lets do some hinges!
Once the hinge slots are cut I put a thin strip of covering over the trailing edge and then cut a slot out of the covering where the hinges go in. That slot gets mostly filled with canopy glue, and after the hinge pins have been tipped in 4-in-1 oil for safety the hinges are slid into the wing.
Once that's dry, a hole gets drilled through the hinge and a toothpick gets glued in with CA
Then the aileron gets a strip of covering and the canopy glue process repeats.
Once it's all dry I cut off the toothpicks, flip them over, and put the other pointy side through a hole drilled into the aileron side of the hinge.
Guaranteed 100% these hinges aren't coming out, and I didn't have to mess with trying to keep epoxy from getting somewhere it shouldn't be! I love this method of doing flat hinges!
Once the hinge slots are cut I put a thin strip of covering over the trailing edge and then cut a slot out of the covering where the hinges go in. That slot gets mostly filled with canopy glue, and after the hinge pins have been tipped in 4-in-1 oil for safety the hinges are slid into the wing.
Once that's dry, a hole gets drilled through the hinge and a toothpick gets glued in with CA
Then the aileron gets a strip of covering and the canopy glue process repeats.
Once it's all dry I cut off the toothpicks, flip them over, and put the other pointy side through a hole drilled into the aileron side of the hinge.
Guaranteed 100% these hinges aren't coming out, and I didn't have to mess with trying to keep epoxy from getting somewhere it shouldn't be! I love this method of doing flat hinges!
Next cover all the ends - wingtips and ailerons.
Then start with the bottom of the wing - if doing it in two pieces keep the seam in the middle. Cut out the servo mount too.
And cover the servo hatches...
It all fits! Easier to pull the wires now before the top is covered. No need for strings and pull wires this way.
Then start with the bottom of the wing - if doing it in two pieces keep the seam in the middle. Cut out the servo mount too.
And cover the servo hatches...
It all fits! Easier to pull the wires now before the top is covered. No need for strings and pull wires this way.
PoorManRC
Master member
Servo hatches and ailerons ready and sanded - lets do some hinges!
View attachment 146593
Once the hinge slots are cut I put a thin strip of covering over the trailing edge and then cut a slot out of the covering where the hinges go in. That slot gets mostly filled with canopy glue, and after the hinge pins have been tipped in 4-in-1 oil for safety the hinges are slid into the wing.
View attachment 146592
Once that's dry, a hole gets drilled through the hinge and a toothpick gets glued in with CA
View attachment 146591
Then the aileron gets a strip of covering and the canopy glue process repeats.
View attachment 146595
Once it's all dry I cut off the toothpicks, flip them over, and put the other pointy side through a hole drilled into the aileron side of the hinge.
View attachment 146594
Guaranteed 100% these hinges aren't coming out, and I didn't have to mess with trying to keep epoxy from getting somewhere it shouldn't be! I love this method of doing flat hinges!
NICE!!! I wonder if that would work with Foamies??
Yep! John Morgan over on another RC forum does it all the time and I used his method on my Monster FW-42 ailerons starting about here:
https://forum.flitetest.com/index.p...zed-fock-wulf-fw-42.37085/page-15#post-420129
I also did a version of this mount going into solid foam board on the rudder for that project here:
https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/monster-sized-fock-wulf-fw-42.37085/post-423420
It should scale down to dollar tree foam board size just fine - just use thinner plywood / formica / whatever for the servo hatch.
PoorManRC
Master member
THANKS!! I may try Balsa Control Surfaces, if I can EVER get a M.S. P-47 - or the upcoming P-51...
Servos in, bottom covered - ready to start the top.
First I grabbed the existing wing and traced over the pattern on some scrap paper - just doing one side at a time like the bottom.
Then cut out patterns from the paper and putting two layers of covering back to back, cut out matching pieces for each side.
I left a little extra around the sides so I can pull the covering as I'm putting it on the wing. Then I pulled the backing off the covering and laid the pieces out with a couple weights so they don't move around.
The next step was supposed to be "use the iron to seal the covering pieces together." But it didn't work. The adhesive is supposed to activate at 280-300F but as soon as I touched the iron to the covering on the glass, the heat dropped like a stone down to the 160 range, even when I started with 330F on the iron. Darn glass makes a great heat-sink.
If heat won't work, let's go to a chemical attack!
I had never used this Trim Solvent before, and wow. This stuff works - and stinks! With a little wetting on a paper towel I cleaned the top side of the white covering at the seam, and then did a quick wipe on the adhesive side of the gold and pressed the two pieces together. Instantly bonded! Repeat for the gold / red seam and wait a little while to make sure it's secure.
Look at that! One layer thick piece of covering with design ready to install!
Installation is quick and easy - just like normal. Tacked down the edge at the middle of the wing, pulled the wrinkles out and tacked the other edges, then did a solid job over the aileron.
After a quick trim around the edges I cut the aileron free and sealed the ends there too. Then I cut out my servo wire access hold and fished the wires up.
Overall, very happy with this process! I could have even better results paying more attention to the overlap amounts before using the trim solvent - I'm still very pleased with how this wing is proceeding and will just take that idea forward to the next project
First I grabbed the existing wing and traced over the pattern on some scrap paper - just doing one side at a time like the bottom.
Then cut out patterns from the paper and putting two layers of covering back to back, cut out matching pieces for each side.
I left a little extra around the sides so I can pull the covering as I'm putting it on the wing. Then I pulled the backing off the covering and laid the pieces out with a couple weights so they don't move around.
The next step was supposed to be "use the iron to seal the covering pieces together." But it didn't work. The adhesive is supposed to activate at 280-300F but as soon as I touched the iron to the covering on the glass, the heat dropped like a stone down to the 160 range, even when I started with 330F on the iron. Darn glass makes a great heat-sink.
If heat won't work, let's go to a chemical attack!
I had never used this Trim Solvent before, and wow. This stuff works - and stinks! With a little wetting on a paper towel I cleaned the top side of the white covering at the seam, and then did a quick wipe on the adhesive side of the gold and pressed the two pieces together. Instantly bonded! Repeat for the gold / red seam and wait a little while to make sure it's secure.
Look at that! One layer thick piece of covering with design ready to install!
Installation is quick and easy - just like normal. Tacked down the edge at the middle of the wing, pulled the wrinkles out and tacked the other edges, then did a solid job over the aileron.
After a quick trim around the edges I cut the aileron free and sealed the ends there too. Then I cut out my servo wire access hold and fished the wires up.
Overall, very happy with this process! I could have even better results paying more attention to the overlap amounts before using the trim solvent - I'm still very pleased with how this wing is proceeding and will just take that idea forward to the next project
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Starting on the second side. Trim Solvent worked great again.
And it tacked on just fine - looks great so far!
Here's where things went downhill. The white Ultracote shrinks and one rate and the two Monokotes actually shrink at different rates from each other! In trying to get the gold to shrink I pretty much trashed it.
The other side went a little easier but still not great.
So I did an ugly thing rather than pull it all off - I added a new gold layer just over that section and carefully used the iron to smooth it out.
Not perfect by a long shot but good enough for government work - or a fun fly plane!
I think in the future I only want to do two pieces connected to each other if using Monokotes and apply the third as an accent afterwards. Or just use all Ultracote that behaves better.
And it tacked on just fine - looks great so far!
Here's where things went downhill. The white Ultracote shrinks and one rate and the two Monokotes actually shrink at different rates from each other! In trying to get the gold to shrink I pretty much trashed it.
The other side went a little easier but still not great.
So I did an ugly thing rather than pull it all off - I added a new gold layer just over that section and carefully used the iron to smooth it out.
Not perfect by a long shot but good enough for government work - or a fun fly plane!
I think in the future I only want to do two pieces connected to each other if using Monokotes and apply the third as an accent afterwards. Or just use all Ultracote that behaves better.
bracesport
Legendary member
Thanks guys! I wanted to share the warts in case it helps someone else avoid my mistakes, or inspires someone to try something new!
This is only about 4 or 5 years of hobby time deep in the RC world - I've spent plenty of time exploring architectural design, construction , wood working, plumbing & electric, building 3D printers, arduino programming, lots of computer & database programming, stringed instrument building, etc. etc. etc. and all those experiences just add more tools (physical and otherwise) going forward. I highly encourage everyone to keep learning, follow your interests, feed your curiosity, and just give things a try!
This is only about 4 or 5 years of hobby time deep in the RC world - I've spent plenty of time exploring architectural design, construction , wood working, plumbing & electric, building 3D printers, arduino programming, lots of computer & database programming, stringed instrument building, etc. etc. etc. and all those experiences just add more tools (physical and otherwise) going forward. I highly encourage everyone to keep learning, follow your interests, feed your curiosity, and just give things a try!
bracesport
Legendary member
High five on that!
PoorManRC
Master member
X2 Brother!!!! 👍👍
I always wished I was better at lists.... I had always kept my brain at work!!
I successfully ran a multimillion dollar Auto Shop for Decades... But couldn't balance my own Checkbook!! 😜😆😄
In my 37 years, JUST in the RC Hobby (not including Model Railroading or Diecast or Plastic Static Models), I've heard, seen and read about a staggering amount of great information!
A SMART Guy would have MANY Journals, Notes, Computer Files....
I wasn't that Guy. 😖
I've started over the past few years, but it's a very small amount.......
So yeah!! Good on you. 😎
I would encourage ANYONE to keep information like you have!! 👍👍
