Inside the stores at home depot in Phoenix they have the 1" thick pink foam in 2'x2' square sheets.
F4U Black Corsair
- Thread starter Alp
- Start date
Inside the stores at home depot in Phoenix they have the 1" thick pink foam in 2'x2' square sheets.
bstanley72
Member
Here it is. In NJ you should be able to buy it in 2 inch thicknesses if you want.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Foamular...uare-Edge-Insulating-Sheathing-20WE/207179253
I've been teaching myself how to work with it in a non-plane related project:
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?29640-Teaching-myself-to-work-with-pink-foam!
jpot1
Elite member
Did everyone mount both rudder and elevator servos side by side in the canopy area? Any tips for running control rods? I know I'm going to have to use carbon fiber rods as I don't have any piano wire long enough.
Also when joining the fuse where did others do it? By the wing cut outs like in the plan?
Also when joining the fuse where did others do it? By the wing cut outs like in the plan?
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Troutbum24
New member
I mounted them side by side in the canopy area. However I feel they could be moved back a former or two and I don't think it would affect things negatively. Mine balances out pretty well as far as CG goes. My battery sits right below the motor at the very front of the plane. However I wouldn't mind having the battery sitting back a little further since I often get nose overs on landing (if I did this I would design some sort of battery hatch over the wing like nerdnic does for his planes.... I just did it for the FT spitfire and am very pleased with the outcome.) I used coffee straws routed through the formers for pushrod guides.
jpot1
Elite member
Thanks Troutbum24. I have built 1 wing and the fuse at this point and starting to drop in the servos. I already cut the battery hatch but I like your idea of a top hatch - maybe for v2.
I already use a shorter power pod. I basically take the standard FT pod and chop it off after the first set of tabs. Unfortunately, Alp's plans use a slightly different length pod, so I had to elongate the cutouts in the top of the fuse.
Plans are great and everything is fitting together very nicely!
I already use a shorter power pod. I basically take the standard FT pod and chop it off after the first set of tabs. Unfortunately, Alp's plans use a slightly different length pod, so I had to elongate the cutouts in the top of the fuse.
Plans are great and everything is fitting together very nicely!
Troutbum24
New member
Nice work dude. Let me offer you a suggestion. Insert the Power Pod and then secure it with barbecuers skewers. Make sure that the hours are long enough to stick out both sides of the cowling. When you cover the fuselage with poster paper make small holes for those skewers to go through it is kind of tricky but well worth it in the end as I think most people just flew in the Power Pod and I find that when I crash the Power Pod is what gets smashed however my Corsair that I build is my only plane that still flies without a complete rebuild I take very good care of her. I hope all that made sense as I am not looking, just talking to the phone while driving I know shame shame shame. I can respond tonight after work.
Troutbum24
New member
I would install the servos and pushrods and connect them up to the elevator and Rudder first before I put the poster paper covering on. Then I would do a mock install of the poster board and figure out where it needed to be cut you're going to have to cut some holes in it larger than you want and then make a new poster paper cover from the first template that you butchered by putting giant holes in. That is how I did it.
jpot1
Elite member
Thanks, that worked pretty well. Decided this one was going to be my test bed. Need to go get some more poster board and then build the other half of the wing. One question, where did you mount your receiver. I'm trying to keep this swappable but there doesn't seem to be a lot of room anywhere.
Troutbum24
New member
I mounted my TX below and behind the tail servos underneath the main body if I remember right. I basically got it all hooked up and velcro'd in place then put the bottom plate (cover on). So my RX is not easily removed, only the power pod is removable. I kept my plane fixed wing as well (it is not removable) If you do that make sure you can access the servo wires somehow and have decent extensions on them. I remember I installed my wing and could not access the wires and had a heck of a time trying to fish them out. Also the plans for the wing... I felt there was something incorrect about them... See this thread I did a short write up http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?20094-Building-Alp-s-F4U-Corsair
Troutbum24
New member
Looks pretty good to me. Make sure you have some down and right on the motor.
shitabrick
Member
Hi do you have a CG issue as I had to add so much weight to the front to get the CG correct now it won't fly too heavy any one else have the same problem?shitabrick
Member
I have built a second one and the problem is the same
Troutbum24
New member
does it weight to much?
jpot1
Elite member
Thanks! Have two washers under each of the top and right mount points so I should be all set.
jpot1
Elite member
Builds look really nice. I do not have a problem with the cg, balances at 3 inches back from the LE when I put the battery directly beneath the power pod. I'm guessing that your foamboard is heavier than the DTFB and since so much of it is behind the cg you then have to add a lot of nose weight. Two solutions - heavier/bigger motor up front or lengthen the nose to see if that helps out.
BTW if you can share some pics of the routing of your push rods, I would appreciate it. Looking for a better approach for when I build v2.
Troutbum24
New member
Nice work jpot.
