Niez13
Elite member
@foamboardflyer @Baron VonHelton Plans at 13thsqaudron.com. If you have any questions about the build let me know!
FT MS ME-262
- Thread starter CrshNBrn
- Start date
Taildragger
Legendary member
haha had a similar feeling when I met trent palmer and got his autograph
Taildragger
Legendary member
yep, definitely recommend 13th squadron for lots of nice master series style planes!
CrshNBrn
Elite member
It was a fun build- its BIG! I struggled with keeping the motor cool (and burned up a couple) until I added a vented spinner from Gator. Haven't had any issues since, and have flown it lots of times.
CrshNBrn
Elite member
Big rainstorm forecast for the next few days here in the Pacific Northwest, so its a perfect time to start #3.
I plan in using the same mods as #2 (removable wing, added rudder, and reinforce the vertical stabilizer) as well as reinforcing the engine pods with an additional former in the middle and some thin plywood on the inside of the skins. Those pods take the full force of belly landings and need a little help.
At the risk of trashing another $129 SBK, I'm going to put the Powerfun 70mm EDFs back in it one more time. I don't know if they are generating enough thrust for this beasty, but I'll build light as possible and cross my fingers. However, if #3 dies like its predecessors, I'm throwing in the towel: #4 will have propellers and fixed landing gear. Bleah. Kills the look, in my opinion.
I realize for the amount of cash I've invested on #1-3 (plus electronics), I could have just bought the Freewing Me-262 and be done with it...but what fun is that?
I plan in using the same mods as #2 (removable wing, added rudder, and reinforce the vertical stabilizer) as well as reinforcing the engine pods with an additional former in the middle and some thin plywood on the inside of the skins. Those pods take the full force of belly landings and need a little help.
At the risk of trashing another $129 SBK, I'm going to put the Powerfun 70mm EDFs back in it one more time. I don't know if they are generating enough thrust for this beasty, but I'll build light as possible and cross my fingers. However, if #3 dies like its predecessors, I'm throwing in the towel: #4 will have propellers and fixed landing gear. Bleah. Kills the look, in my opinion.
I realize for the amount of cash I've invested on #1-3 (plus electronics), I could have just bought the Freewing Me-262 and be done with it...but what fun is that?
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chickenhawk
Active member
Snow on the ground and -11c so a good time to start mine. But I'm still going with 3 blade props and landing gear. Still going to follow you with intrest.
CrshNBrn
Elite member
Wise choice. I think you are choosing the less expensive and far less painful option. If you can, document your progress as well- I'd like to see how things turn out.
chickenhawk
Active member
I have not unpacked mine yet, today is the day. But I'm going to add the rudder and the extra wing support. But what did you do to beef up the rudder? With taxes and shipping the kit in Canada is almost $200.00 so going slow and carefull LOL
CrshNBrn
Elite member
Congratulations! What a great way to beat the cold outside. Sorry the kit was so spendy up there! Thats powerful incentive to get the build right the first time, eh? The rudder is a little wonky and different from the usual "45* bevel-with-the-razor-blade-scrape-the-hot-glue-in-the-crack" method used in the other master series planes, as I think it was designed with no rudder and differential thrust in mind.
The kit will include two rudder pieces, but I only used one. The rudder is attached by removing some of the foam from the edges of the vertical stabilizer (you'll see in the symbol mapping) to leave two paper tabs. You'll follow the build instructions about folding the paper flat to create a tab, but skip the step that says "glue the tabs together" for now. You then sandwich the paper tabs around the of the vertical edge of the rudder to act like a long hinge. Check for level and alignment before attaching. I hot glued it last time, but am probably going to use something less thick (like clear Gorilla glue) this time. I ran an extra servo with the usual coffee stirrer pushrod method to power the rudder. It had good range of motion and seemed to work okay.
The vertical stabilizer is actually two pieces (see the build photos) sits on top of the fuselage with not a lot of support. I ran a long BBQ skewer through the bottom half of the VSTAB into the fuselage. The other end went through the horizontal stabilizer and then up into the taller portion of the VSTAB as I installed each piece It should keep things more aligned & perpendicular, especially when subjected to the high speed flight stresses. I don't think I have any pictures of that part, but will take some of #3 when I get to that step and share them here.
Good luck. Enjoy the build.
The kit will include two rudder pieces, but I only used one. The rudder is attached by removing some of the foam from the edges of the vertical stabilizer (you'll see in the symbol mapping) to leave two paper tabs. You'll follow the build instructions about folding the paper flat to create a tab, but skip the step that says "glue the tabs together" for now. You then sandwich the paper tabs around the of the vertical edge of the rudder to act like a long hinge. Check for level and alignment before attaching. I hot glued it last time, but am probably going to use something less thick (like clear Gorilla glue) this time. I ran an extra servo with the usual coffee stirrer pushrod method to power the rudder. It had good range of motion and seemed to work okay.
The vertical stabilizer is actually two pieces (see the build photos) sits on top of the fuselage with not a lot of support. I ran a long BBQ skewer through the bottom half of the VSTAB into the fuselage. The other end went through the horizontal stabilizer and then up into the taller portion of the VSTAB as I installed each piece It should keep things more aligned & perpendicular, especially when subjected to the high speed flight stresses. I don't think I have any pictures of that part, but will take some of #3 when I get to that step and share them here.
Good luck. Enjoy the build.
chickenhawk
Active member
Sounds good, the only way to test mine will be on a set of skis or wait till spring.
chickenhawk
Active member
Question about " clear Gorilla glue " its says on box "for non-porous surfaces only" does that mean NOT to dampen the brown foam board?
CrshNBrn
Elite member
I don't think so. I've been using a spray bottle or a sponge to moisten the foamboard prior to using both white and clear gorilla glues. You could always test on a scrap piece first to see how it acts.
CrshNBrn
Elite member
BBQ skewer reinforcement for the vertical stabilizer and rudder pushrod location. I glued the skewer in first with some white gorilla glue, then measured the distance to know where to put the hole in the fuselage. I think it lodged in the spine, which should give the tall tail a little more support.
As for the rudder pushrod, its easiest to run before putting the spline in. I used some skinny gorilla tape to attach my coffee stirrer pushrod guides to the spline- that little hole in the F5 former comes in handy to feed a long piece of tape in. An extra pushrod is helpful to guide the tape as far back as possible before attaching. The paper hinge seems to work fine on the double thickness rudder. Overengineering? I'll smooth it out later with a hot metal ruler to melt the glue underneath.
As for the rudder pushrod, its easiest to run before putting the spline in. I used some skinny gorilla tape to attach my coffee stirrer pushrod guides to the spline- that little hole in the F5 former comes in handy to feed a long piece of tape in. An extra pushrod is helpful to guide the tape as far back as possible before attaching. The paper hinge seems to work fine on the double thickness rudder. Overengineering? I'll smooth it out later with a hot metal ruler to melt the glue underneath.
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Ratcheeroo
Legendary member
chickenhawk
Active member
Well hit my first big snag, must have looked at the picture on Flite Test page 100 times. Clearly shows plane flying with motors in pull configuration, but in the build it shows pusher prop configuration???????? I kept trail fitting the power boxes and just could not wrap my head around the pictures showing the motor mounting. LOL So motors in push or pull? Next question is to mount ESC inside wing and hope one never goes bad or mount behind the motor in side power box?
If I remember right they said that it flies better as a tractor. The reason they did it as a pusher was because it looks better.
chickenhawk
Active member
Can some one explain " flys better as a tractor" better air for the motors? Not sure how to word my question. I guessing the pusher setup would have to fight the wing for air?
As a pusher you don’t have any air from the props flowing over the wing creating lift.
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