Timmy's Thread

TheFlyingBrit

Legendary member
Just a quick tip for future reference, before you mount your servos wrap them in electricians tape. Then when you glue them in place, glue the taped sections around the servo. That way in the future if you need to remove the servos, you just cut through the electricians tape to release them and they are easier to take out.
Its easier to dig out the electricians tape after and re-glue new sevos in, that way you wing or fuselage doesnt sustain too much damage !
 

TheFlyingBrit

Legendary member
Thanks. I can take off my otter from just dry grass if it isn't too short. Its a great all round plane as long as you don't slam the throttle. it's not very aerobatic either.
Your video has inspired me to build this next after my FT Edge, as I said in a previous post the Sea Otter one of my favourites. I was planning to build a master series after the Edge but that can wait.
 

Timmy

Legendary member
I've finnaly got some time for RC stuff so I've worked my sled thingy.
P1140618.JPG

The motor casing turns to turn the sled (it took a long time to figure out how to do that). There is a servo with pushrod and all that stuff turning an axle which turns the casing. The control horn is metal and is soldered to the axel which is also metal (duh).

The battery is sitting roughly where it would be inside the sled.

I tested it last night and the motor is too high up. A bit of down (pointing the motor casing downwards) thrust angle would help too. I should also downgrade from a 6x4 prop to a 6x3 prop. Too much power from the 6x4.

Its not done, I need to decorate it and make it look good. I'll probably add floats to the side to help with the motor being too high. I also need to minwax it.
 
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I've finnaly got some time for RC stuff so I've worked my sled thingy.
View attachment 186466
The motor casing turns to turn the sled (it took a long time to figure out how to do that). There is a servo with pushrod and all that stuff turning an axle which turns the casing. The control horn is metal and is soldered to the axel which is also metal (duh).

The battery is sitting roughly where it would be inside the sled.

I tested it last night and the motor is too high up. A bit of down (pointing the motor casing downwards) thrust angle would help too. I should also downgrade from a 6x4 prop to a 6x3 prop. Too much power from the 6x4.

Its not done, I need to decorate it and make it look good. I'll probably add floats to the side to help with the motor being too high. I also need to minwax it.
Hey been wondering where you are. Looks good! Reminds me so much of a swamp boat down south.

AR-190328523.jpg

Yeah that looks high. The prop looks huge! I need to program in some down angle on mine too. Have to guess at how much.

That boat looks little. What's the size?
 
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Timmy

Legendary member
You said you might need outriggers to make it wider. You might find inspiration in the racing outboard tunnel hulls -
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?50664-Cozy-F1-Tunnel-wood-build&styleid=7

Or in the RC racing boats with outriggers -
View attachment 186481 View attachment 186482
Thanks!
Hey been wondering where you are. Looks good! Reminds me so much of a swamp boat down south.

View attachment 186483

Yeah that looks high. The prop looks huge! I need to program in some down angle on mine too. Have to guess at how much.

That boat looks little. What's the size?
6" prop

~12 x 30 cm body

a 4 or 3" prop would be better but I don't have any. I could just make the entire thing bigger.
 

slowjo

Master member
I've finnaly got some time for RC stuff so I've worked my sled thingy.
View attachment 186466
The motor casing turns to turn the sled (it took a long time to figure out how to do that). There is a servo with pushrod and all that stuff turning an axle which turns the casing. The control horn is metal and is soldered to the axel which is also metal (duh).

The battery is sitting roughly where it would be inside the sled.

I tested it last night and the motor is too high up. A bit of down (pointing the motor casing downwards) thrust angle would help too. I should also downgrade from a 6x4 prop to a 6x3 prop. Too much power from the 6x4.

Its not done, I need to decorate it and make it look good. I'll probably add floats to the side to help with the motor being too high. I also need to minwax it.
I went the other direction BIG, but Im hoping to use it come summer to retrieve float plane in trouble
 

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Corsair714

Well-known member
I've finnaly got some time for RC stuff so I've worked my sled thingy.
View attachment 186466
The motor casing turns to turn the sled (it took a long time to figure out how to do that). There is a servo with pushrod and all that stuff turning an axle which turns the casing. The control horn is metal and is soldered to the axel which is also metal (duh).

The battery is sitting roughly where it would be inside the sled.

I tested it last night and the motor is too high up. A bit of down (pointing the motor casing downwards) thrust angle would help too. I should also downgrade from a 6x4 prop to a 6x3 prop. Too much power from the 6x4.

Its not done, I need to decorate it and make it look good. I'll probably add floats to the side to help with the motor being too high. I also need to minwax it.
Is this for water, snow, or both?
 

Corsair714

Well-known member
That's a pic of one of my airsled versions. I believe that was the fourteenth one I made. It's not pretty, but it was designed to be small, fast, and durable.
 

TheFlyingBrit

Legendary member
Thanks. I can take off my otter from just dry grass if it isn't too short. Its a great all round plane as long as you don't slam the throttle. it's not very aerobatic either.
Just down loaded the plans for the Otter and Scout, these are my next 2 builds. I can start joining the pages together over the Christmas holidays while I am in work. It will give me something to do, besides finish my FT Edge and paint my Bushwacker.