Looking great! Love the plans too - very clear and easy to follow!
The 9x6 3-blade on my Spitfire only draws 22a at max power (SunnySky 2216) I bet you are okay with a 35a ESC, I just wouldn't fly at 100% for long.The build is 98% done just need to add a some tail struts, skid, power pod holes/skewers, and some velcro to hold the battery/ESC/Rx.
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Hopefully i will get a chance this weekend to maiden. I'm a little unsure of this big prop (10 x 7 x 3) on a C pack as i have only used the 2 blade APC 10 x 4.7. Can this motor handle that much load & 35 amp ESC? Also the shaft is too short to engage the Nylock part of the nut, not sure but this may work loose? It sure looks good though.
This plane looks amazing, your build skills are on point brotherRebuilt the nose and added a touch of color.
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For the CG i have it balance at 2" from the LE on a 7.5" chord this is @ 26% of the chord . The scout balances at 2.25" on a 9" chord that is 25% of the chord. Since i basically took the dimensions from the scout for this airfoil and then scaled it slightly it should be at the same location along the chord correct? That is unless the flying strut beneath is doing something weird? I'm guessing the balance is OK and it was mainly pilot error although i will move the battery forward slightly next flight to confirm. I was throwing it right handed and having to transition to my controls much quicker than the left handed toss i should have been doing. Also i will take the scout with me next time to help knock some rust off and get me ready.
I was also pondering making the tail 10-15% larger or something in the neighborhood to help it track straight and provide me extra stability. Any other thoughts about how else to give it trainer flight characteristics?
I have my linkages set at the lowest hole on the control arm and at furthest for the surface control horns. Not really sure what expo i had but my DXE was running low rates. I guess i will have to hook up my phone and mess with the settings.(I despise the DXE) What do you recommend to start @FoamyDM ?
Ooh la la! The color touches are perfect. Makes a guy want to build one!
@Matagami Designs - For Balance, I have learned a great deal over the 2-3 yrs of Flubbing it. This of course doesn't make me an expert, and this advice may be worth a paper nickel.
- Your C.G. location sounds about right. esp. for traditional design. and your method for locating the CG (copy/scale an existing) is very sound. The scout is such a good bird to fly. When I get the battery close for good C.G., I mark the front and back with a line. They helps me relocate the batt. back very close, and helps with micro adjustments.
- I throw righty too. It's the worst... makes a good case for mode 1. The right-hand launch method leaves a lot of room for launch error.
- My suggestions
- Get quicker!
- launch from the ground (from gear, or bungee),
- have an experienced thrower.
- Extra tail - go for it if you feel you are maxing it just to bring the craft around. Extra surface will help it respond better taller and wider tail will make it weather vane better, and slow it a tad.
- Throws: As you describe it, your linkages are giving you the lowest throws possible.
- Expo: Expo at 35% is the recommended start. I use more like 40-45% as I tend to have bigger reactions than I need.
I started my Scout with No-expo, sorry reverse expo (the wrong way), high throw and no hope. My flight looked a lot like yours, from over-correction and touchy controls. I reverse the expo, reduce the throw rate (upper control horn hole, low servo hole.) and suddenly it started to behave. The Scout, Arrow/Versa and Viggen are still some of my favorite flyers
I hope this helps - you did an superb job on this. This is your first Rockyboy FTFC right? My tips before you button this project up (also worth a paper nickel).
Do two things - 1. review the rubrik and make sure you have what you want to put in there. 2. Revise the first post to be newb-to-the-post friendly.
Name, Pic of the Finished Plane, History, Plan link (with picture) and a simplified Blog, or just the unique build highlights. (for yours how do you connect the struts for example.) in the first post. Then the Maiden, proof of flight, video. Lastly I like to put a takeaway section something for future builders to know or keep in mind as they take your plane on. like, "This plans nose was weak, be sure to reinforce yours well".
Need more ideas look at past winners. They all put forth outstanding projects that were clear, organized well and easy to take it on. Your design here has all the makings to be part of that class of entry.
It looks like you have a C pack motor, or the equivalent of in this airframe, so imagine you are running a 2200mah 3s.
Where is the battery located in the plane? The wing doesn't look like it's removable so I am guessing it is in the power pod.
The straight wing design, (no sweep), means your CG should be under the spar between the 2 crease folds in the top panel of the wing, usually 1/3rd of the chord. the nose looks to be long enough to balance the plane. Can you move the battery fore and aft to find balance. I am just asking because I think you are correct in saying it is tail heavy in flight just from what you describe.
What is the location of your tail servos?
And since you are thinking of building another one what kind of FB do you use? Elmers has heavier paper then Adams and will contribute to a tail heavy plane, more noticeable in the Minis then the standards. Maybe peel the paper off the inside of the new build from the CG back to the tail to help combat the tail heavy issue.
When you go to the AMA club get someone to help you trim it out as well. Might be able to give you some suggestions.