BF109-G2 Master Series style - 46" wingspan Version 1.1

[bwarz]

I've noticed after several flights that my motor is getting quite warm in flight. As built, I'm running a 2216 1120kV spinning a 10x7 prop on 2200mAh 3S. As I noted before she is a bit heavy, which I've made a few minor changes in the V1.1 to help with that just a little. We'll see how the weight plays out on build #2 after polyurethane and paint, but in the mean time, I've picked up a 2814 1050kV motor to see how she flies. Just an FYI for those looking to fly it on a C Pack.

I don't have any 4S batteries, but maybe a 10x5 or 10x6 on 4S might do the trick....?

 

[The Fopster]

I've noticed after several flights that my motor is getting quite warm in flight. As built, I'm running a 2216 1120kV spinning a 10x7 prop on 2200mAh 3S. As I noted before she is a bit heavy, which I've made a few minor changes in the V1.1 to help with that just a little. We'll see how the weight plays out on build #2 after polyurethane and paint, but in the mean time, I've picked up a 2814 1050kV motor to see how she flies. Just an FYI for those looking to fly it on a C Pack.

I don't have any 4S batteries, but maybe a 10x5 or 10x6 on 4S might do the trick....?

Does it even need a 10" prop? It's quite a slim nose so the prop isn't blanked by the fuselage. It might be worth trying a 9x6. I use them on similar sized planes running 3s and they do fine. Worth a try?

 

[bwarz]

Does it even need a 10" prop? It's quite a slim nose so the prop isn't blanked by the fuselage. It might be worth trying a 9x6. I use them on similar sized planes running 3s and they do fine. Worth a try?

That's not a bad thought- I'll have to give it a shot and see, thanks! I just know that its maiden flight with a 10x5 was way underpowered - needed almost full throttle to stay in the air. I'll have to see if I've got any 9s and hit up the LHS if not.

 

[bwarz]

I finally got back to (re)building the fuselage assembly based on the latest plans (remember, noted that I uploaded them with confidence that they were 99% good??). I had not followed my assembly instructions, and even worse, had glued skins D and E a little off-rotation. The new plans had minor mods to former 8 and a few other things.

So in reassembling last night, I found that the skins are just a bit tight on the formers! So....if you read this and (hopefully) haven't cut skins yet, there are a few minor tweaks that I've made that I will test before uploading a final plan....but for those that might be building, on skins A and E, leave them a little longer on the glue edge than drawn in plans v1.1 (1mm or so should be good). The edges where the skins meet each other should be fine. Former 8rear is too small no, just use two former 8fronts. Finally, former C (the cockpit one) - the sides of the cockpit 'hole' are too low and things don't line up perfect with skin D. Raised them up 2mm for testing again... Also, the rear corners lower corners of skin C where they'd meet skin D and the wing are too short. Things build OK but leave a bit of gap where the two meet. I'm not entirely sure how to explain this but hope to have skins tested again before the weekend is out and will upload corrected parts as a separate attachment...

 

[bwarz]

I just wanted anyone who pulled these plans down to know that I haven't abandoned them! Life has just been so nuts since FT2021 I haven't had a moments time to get back on the second build. @FlyingWithRyan was awesome enough to use his needle cutter to cut the plans out on his needle cutter and have one built, which as I understand went together well. (I also hear it rips pretty well with a 4S in it!) He was also kind enough to cut out a power pod with a touch of right thrust angle to deal with the plane's tendency to dog a bit to the left, which I've always just compensated with some right rudder I haven't even taken the time to build another one with angle and enjoy the benefits!
So hopefully one of these days I will get back to the build, which is still half done. I'll include the design for landing gear blocks and the gear wire angles as well. Just one of these days....

 

[FlyingWithRyan]

Heres all the edited/cleaned files for inkscape. I corrupted my sheet 4 flaps one so if you want that wing with flaps just mirror the sheet 5 flaps one onto the sheet 4 no flaps one.

 

[FlyingWithRyan]

@bwarz you could just take the proper power pod off of my files if you'd like. Its on the top right of sheet 2.

 

[bwarz]

@bwarz you could just take the proper power pod off of my files if you'd like. Its on the top right of sheet 2.

Probably will when I get back to it - nice and easy. Thanks again for the work you've done!

 

[FlyingWithRyan]

Probably will when I get back to it - nice and easy. Thanks again for the work you've done!

I hardly have done anything. Its all the work you did designing the plane.

 

[bwarz]

I hardly have done anything. Its all the work you did designing the plane.

we need to talk a little offline. if I knew how you did your layers for the needle cutter I could lay out the svgs in layers for each cut depth and set at 20x30. Not sure what's going to be next, although I really should finalize this one first! I think the wing radiators need a correction too 🤔

 

[FlyingWithRyan]

One step ahead of you. I can just share Gcodes and Ill add a synopsis of how to change cut depths for your machine if youre using the ERC tim sav

 

[FlyingWithRyan]

Attatched are the gcode files for an ERC Tim Sav, unsure if theyre able to work with another style of machine. The servo height commands are M3 S__ for down to a set position, and M5 is a default up position. You will notice at the start of my gcode I always put M3 S0 because this sends the servo to 0 degrees automatically. TO EDIT FOR YOUR MACHINE CUT HEIGHTS go into the text file in notepad, click "Edit", then "Replace", A window should appear that looks like this

All of my score cut depths in the original files should be M3 S65, so to change a score cut to a different depth you likely will have to put M3 S65 into the "Find what" box, and enter a different degree that works with your machine in the "Replace with" box. Press "Replace All". Remember the larger the number the deeper it cuts. The full cuts should work similarly but my full cuts are likely M3 S90, your MIG tip should only be slightly off the surface you are cutting on. Depending on how flat your surface is I'd recommend less than 1/16" of a gap. The closer it is the more square your corners will be.

You can find the separation between the two heights where there is a gap in the code where I hit enter a few times. If you want to increase efficiency you could also go to the end of the score cut gcode and eliminate the "G1 X0 Y0". All this does is eliminates the cutter going back to the 0,0 position after finishing the score cuts. You will need this at the end of the full cuts however otherwise your machine will stop wherever it last cut. If you for some reason would like to run a higher speed of cut you could also change the F1500 to whatever you desire but 1500mm/min is plenty for me and results in better than laser cut quality parts.

If you have any questions, just ask.
Enjoy the master class

 

[Jerry_C]

I contemplated the tape and fold method but when I started I did it the latest FT style. I agree I'd prefer the rounded but to get everything to fit right the size needs to be a bit longer. I'd like to do something different with the VSTAB as well. Maybe even a square tip wing option as well 😆 But first I'll need to see that the rest of the plan works as laid out and I remembered to update all of the parts as I went! Thanks for checking it out and the suggestions!

I was thinking this very thing on all the FT builds. On my Corsair, I used a dowel rod to crush the edges, then simply took some scrap paper that was torn off the inner panels, applied adhesive and put that on the leading edges. Seemed to work well. But I was thinking, what if one were to put the leading edges of the upper and lower wing panels together in one piece with a 3/16" gap, cut a "cavity" notch, and inserted a 3/16" dowel rod or carbon tube, then fold it over. Should make a nice rounded leading edge.

Jerry

 

[bwarz]

I was thinking this very thing on all the FT builds. On my Corsair, I used a dowel rod to crush the edges, then simply took some scrap paper that was torn off the inner panels, applied adhesive and put that on the leading edges. Seemed to work well. But I was thinking, what if one were to put the leading edges of the upper and lower wing panels together in one piece with a 3/16" gap, cut a "cavity" notch, and inserted a 3/16" dowel rod or carbon tube, then fold it over. Should make a nice rounded leading edge.

Jerry

That sounds like something to try! I'd like the hard leading edge. I've been ironing the edges after assembly but it still can leave a bit of a gap. The thing with taping the leading edges together and then folding (which gives a beautiful curve on the leading edge BTW) is that the top and bottom skins of the wing end up too short. I did some tests and the bottom is OKish but the top skin ends up about 5-6mm short on the back. The design would need to accommodate the folding.I wonder how a cut off piece of 3/8" dowel would glue up the the leading edge if built as all are now?

 

[Rhaps]

That sounds like something to try! I'd like the hard leading edge. I've been ironing the edges after assembly but it still can leave a bit of a gap. The thing with taping the leading edges together and then folding (which gives a beautiful curve on the leading edge BTW) is that the top and bottom skins of the wing end up too short. I did some tests and the bottom is OKish but the top skin ends up about 5-6mm short on the back. The design would need to accommodate the folding.I wonder how a cut off piece of 3/8" dowel would glue up the the leading edge if built as all are now?

This is what I did with MS Corsair Wing LE:
I cut LE piece from foamboard like this

I glued it to the LE - just the part where paper was removed against LE
Then I used woodglue and iron to round the edge and glue the paper to the wing.
The woodglue I used cures with the ironing so it was pretty easy. Its also water soluble so the extra glue was easy to remove
End result was actually pretty nice but this is after couple of chace meetings with trees and earth

 

[bwarz]

This is what I did with MS Corsair Wing LE:
I cut LE piece from foamboard like this
I glued it to the LE - just the part where paper was removed against LE
Then I used woodglue and iron to round the edge and glue the paper to the wing.
The woodglue I used cures with the ironing so it was pretty easy. Its also water soluble so the extra glue was easy to remove
End result was actually pretty nice but this is after couple of chace meetings with trees and earth

So you hot glue the foam face to the LE? Then work your top and bottom back to the main wing? That's pretty cool - the curve looks quite nice even after your personal introductions to trees! The wood glue cures that quickly with the iron? Do you pre-iron to get come curvature? So many questions lol - I'll just have to give it a try on a test wing. Thanks for the idea!

 

[Rhaps]

So you hot glue the foam face to the LE? Then work your top and bottom back to the main wing? That's pretty cool - the curve looks quite nice even after your personal introductions to trees! The wood glue cures that quickly with the iron? Do you pre-iron to get come curvature? So many questions lol - I'll just have to give it a try on a test wing. Thanks for the idea!

TBH I'm not sure if I used hot glue or gorilla/UHU POR to attach foam face to LE - I was trying different glues when building the Corsair.
Hot glue _should_ work fine even with using iron but of cousre gorilla/UHU is safer against ironing.
I worked the curve after LE piece was attached to the wing. And yes, the woodglue (at least the one I used) did cure with the heat. You could of course use hot glue everywhere, I just found using woodglue here much more pleasant and less messy

Hardwood LE would be the strongest solution but it requires sanding. I work at dining room table, wife might be bit peeved with the dust.
This one was a lot easier and was good enough for me

 

[bwarz]

TBH I'm not sure if I used hot glue or gorilla/UHU POR to attach foam face to LE - I was trying different glues when building the Corsair.
Hot glue _should_ work fine even with using iron but of cousre gorilla/UHU is safer against ironing.
I worked the curve after LE piece was attached to the wing. And yes, the woodglue (at least the one I used) did cure with the heat. You could of course use hot glue everywhere, I just found using woodglue here much more pleasant and less messy

Hardwood LE would be the strongest solution but it requires sanding. I work at dining room table, wife might be bit peeved with the dust.
This one was a lot easier and was good enough for me

View attachment 213415

your drawing spells it out perfectly! I will need to give this a go!

 

[Sebastian/717]

What are the plans

 

[bwarz]

What are the plans

welcome to the forums! the download link should be right below or next to the resource thread title... https://forum.flitetest.com/index.p...-master-series-style-46-wingspan.226/download