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BF109-G2 Master Series style - 46" wingspan

Plane BF109-G2 Master Series style - 46" wingspan Version 1.1

bwarz

Elite member
#21
I've noticed after several flights that my motor is getting quite warm in flight. As built, I'm running a 2216 1120kV spinning a 10x7 prop on 2200mAh 3S. As I noted before she is a bit heavy, which I've made a few minor changes in the V1.1 to help with that just a little. We'll see how the weight plays out on build #2 after polyurethane and paint, but in the mean time, I've picked up a 2814 1050kV motor to see how she flies. Just an FYI for those looking to fly it on a C Pack.

I don't have any 4S batteries, but maybe a 10x5 or 10x6 on 4S might do the trick....?
 
#22
I've noticed after several flights that my motor is getting quite warm in flight. As built, I'm running a 2216 1120kV spinning a 10x7 prop on 2200mAh 3S. As I noted before she is a bit heavy, which I've made a few minor changes in the V1.1 to help with that just a little. We'll see how the weight plays out on build #2 after polyurethane and paint, but in the mean time, I've picked up a 2814 1050kV motor to see how she flies. Just an FYI for those looking to fly it on a C Pack.

I don't have any 4S batteries, but maybe a 10x5 or 10x6 on 4S might do the trick....?
Does it even need a 10" prop? It's quite a slim nose so the prop isn't blanked by the fuselage. It might be worth trying a 9x6. I use them on similar sized planes running 3s and they do fine. Worth a try?
 

bwarz

Elite member
#23
Does it even need a 10" prop? It's quite a slim nose so the prop isn't blanked by the fuselage. It might be worth trying a 9x6. I use them on similar sized planes running 3s and they do fine. Worth a try?
That's not a bad thought- I'll have to give it a shot and see, thanks! I just know that its maiden flight with a 10x5 was way underpowered - needed almost full throttle to stay in the air. I'll have to see if I've got any 9s and hit up the LHS if not.
 

bwarz

Elite member
#24
I finally got back to (re)building the fuselage assembly based on the latest plans (remember, noted that I uploaded them with confidence that they were 99% good??). I had not followed my assembly instructions, and even worse, had glued skins D and E a little off-rotation. The new plans had minor mods to former 8 and a few other things.

So in reassembling last night, I found that the skins are just a bit tight on the formers! So....if you read this and (hopefully) haven't cut skins yet, there are a few minor tweaks that I've made that I will test before uploading a final plan....but for those that might be building, on skins A and E, leave them a little longer on the glue edge than drawn in plans v1.1 (1mm or so should be good). The edges where the skins meet each other should be fine. Former 8rear is too small no, just use two former 8fronts. Finally, former C (the cockpit one) - the sides of the cockpit 'hole' are too low and things don't line up perfect with skin D. Raised them up 2mm for testing again... Also, the rear corners lower corners of skin C where they'd meet skin D and the wing are too short. Things build OK but leave a bit of gap where the two meet. I'm not entirely sure how to explain this but hope to have skins tested again before the weekend is out and will upload corrected parts as a separate attachment...
 

bwarz

Elite member
#25
I just wanted anyone who pulled these plans down to know that I haven't abandoned them! Life has just been so nuts since FT2021 I haven't had a moments time to get back on the second build. @FlyingWithRyan was awesome enough to use his needle cutter to cut the plans out on his needle cutter and have one built, which as I understand went together well. (I also hear it rips pretty well with a 4S in it!) He was also kind enough to cut out a power pod with a touch of right thrust angle to deal with the plane's tendency to dog a bit to the left, which I've always just compensated with some right rudder :oops: I haven't even taken the time to build another one with angle and enjoy the benefits!
So hopefully one of these days I will get back to the build, which is still half done. I'll include the design for landing gear blocks and the gear wire angles as well. Just one of these days....
 
#26
Heres all the edited/cleaned files for inkscape. I corrupted my sheet 4 flaps one so if you want that wing with flaps just mirror the sheet 5 flaps one onto the sheet 4 no flaps one.
 

Attachments

bwarz

Elite member
#30
I hardly have done anything. Its all the work you did designing the plane.
we need to talk a little offline. if I knew how you did your layers for the needle cutter I could lay out the svgs in layers for each cut depth and set at 20x30. Not sure what's going to be next, although I really should finalize this one first! I think the wing radiators need a correction too 🤔
 
#32
Attatched are the gcode files for an ERC Tim Sav, unsure if theyre able to work with another style of machine. The servo height commands are M3 S__ for down to a set position, and M5 is a default up position. You will notice at the start of my gcode I always put M3 S0 because this sends the servo to 0 degrees automatically. TO EDIT FOR YOUR MACHINE CUT HEIGHTS go into the text file in notepad, click "Edit", then "Replace", A window should appear that looks like this
Gcode editing step 1.PNG

All of my score cut depths in the original files should be M3 S65, so to change a score cut to a different depth you likely will have to put M3 S65 into the "Find what" box, and enter a different degree that works with your machine in the "Replace with" box. Press "Replace All". Remember the larger the number the deeper it cuts. The full cuts should work similarly but my full cuts are likely M3 S90, your MIG tip should only be slightly off the surface you are cutting on. Depending on how flat your surface is I'd recommend less than 1/16" of a gap. The closer it is the more square your corners will be.

You can find the separation between the two heights where there is a gap in the code where I hit enter a few times. If you want to increase efficiency you could also go to the end of the score cut gcode and eliminate the "G1 X0 Y0". All this does is eliminates the cutter going back to the 0,0 position after finishing the score cuts. You will need this at the end of the full cuts however otherwise your machine will stop wherever it last cut. If you for some reason would like to run a higher speed of cut you could also change the F1500 to whatever you desire but 1500mm/min is plenty for me and results in better than laser cut quality parts.

If you have any questions, just ask.
Enjoy the master class :ROFLMAO:
 

Attachments